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The Charms of Nantucket’s Century House

By Denise A. Manning

Nantucket Island's accessible location, interesting whaling history, beautiful beaches, and upscale shopping make it an excellent destination for anyone interested in a glorious seaside getaway. The Century House, a lovingly restored bed and breakfast, will make your stay feel like a family visit.

The location of The Century House is key to its success. Although its in-town address makes it a convenient walk to most restaurants and shops, its residential setting ensures a peaceful vacation. The slight elevation of the property allows the cooling breezes to reach the wrap-around veranda. This handsome old building has been enveloped by creeping vines whose leaves and blooms provide privacy and shade and add to its romance and mystery. The common areas of the inn are decorated with period furniture, original works of art, books, and fresh bouquets of roses. These intimate spaces are quiet and welcoming, providing a retreat after a busy day of sight-seeing.

Each of the inn’s 14 rooms has its own personality as well as a private bathroom and is identified not by number but by name. The Red Dahlia, an elegantly appointed second floor chamber, was my haven. The extremely comfortable mattress and bedding were nest like. The flowered wallpaper and the antiques bolstered the illusion that I was staying with my grandmother. Hot water was plentiful and air conditioning made it possible to sleep, even on the stickiest of July nights. All of the rooms at The Century House have cable television and some also come equipped with a small refrigerator and microwave. Although the technological world will seem a million miles away, there is high speed internet access throughout the inn.

Each morning, innkeepers Jean and Gerry offer a delicious continental breakfast that features seasonal berries and melons. Yogurt, granola, freshly baked coffeecake, bagels and English muffins round out the offerings. Enjoy your meal in the inn’s cozy kitchen or take a tray out to the porch. Coffee, tea, bottled water, and soft drinks are available throughout the day, and at tea time, you are sure to find a tray of cookies or bars to tide you over until dinner.

How to get around

Although walking is the best mode of transportation in the maze of downtown, there are several other good possibilities to travel around the island at large. There is a shuttle service that leaves from several points in town and is very reliable. Remember to have the exact fare, as the driver is unable to make change. Car and jeep rentals are available, but one way streets appear to be a theme so navigate carefully. Jeep rentals come with a beach sticker that allows beach access for four wheeling fun. Mopeds are another option, but they can be tricky on the cobblestones and no fun to push. Renting bikes is the least expensive way to cover longer distances. They come in all shapes and sizes, and helmets are free. Be cautious when sharing the road with cars, mopeds and pedestrians, and try to get to the extensive network of bike paths as soon as you can.

What to do

From the moment you arrive, Nantucket shops and galleries beckon. Although you might be tempted to spend all your time shopping, don't neglect the opportunity to immerse yourself in the past. The newly renovated Whaling Museum is spectacular and not to be missed. The 30-minute multimedia lecture about whaling voyages and techniques is captivating for almost all ages. Particularly impressive is the extensive collection of scrimshaw located on the second floor.

For an overview of the island and its history, Gail's Tours fits the bill. Gail, a seventh generation islander, chauffeurs her 14 passengers in a comfortable, air-conditioned van past historical buildings, houses of the rich and famous, cranberry bogs and other noteworthy attractions. Her vast knowledge, quick wit, and sense of humor make for a well spent 90 minutes.

         

Nantucket's wide array of beaches is sure to please all types of beach goers. If you wish to ogle boats while lounging in the sun, Brant Point Beach, a short walk from The Century House, is the place to go. Jetties Beach is popular with smaller children because the surf is manageable. All the beaches on the south shore of the island boast dunes, frequently large waves and a steady breeze. Take the shuttle or ride your bike, but do not miss these shoreline gems.

     

A trip to Nantucket wouldn't be complete without a cruise of the harbor. Harbor Cruises, offers 5 short cruises each day. Passengers are encouraged to bring along snacks and drinks. The captain provides cups, plates, ice, and beautiful views of the harbor and large flotilla of resident boats.

If you enjoy fishing, the waters surrounding Nantucket offer exciting opportunities. Cross Rip Outfitters, one of the many charter companies to choose from, provides an extensive array of services and trips. Their shop in town is located on Easy Street but their excursions depart from Madaket Marine, on the east side of the island. Lynne Heyer is co-owner of Cross Rip and captain of the 26 foot Regulator used on my trip. Lynne’s expertise and easygoing style enabled her to navigate in heavy fog while assessing the fishing skills of her four passengers. Anchored on the flats of the “bonito bar” she demonstrated casting for the beginners and fine-tuned the technique of the more experienced. Since the bonito weren’t biting, she moved us to bluefish slicks, changed the lures and revealed the best way to entice these fighting fish. By the time the sun had burned through the clouds, I caught several 8-pounders and Lynne was urging a couple of us to try a fly rod. She built on our limited freshwater fly casting experience and in 15 minutes we were confidently casting off the bow. What a day at sea we had. Everyone caught plenty of fish!

     

Where to eat

The food on Nantucket tends to be a bit pricey, but that is to be expected on any tourist island. There is an enormous selection of restaurants to choose from, and due to fierce competition, most are excellent. Not to be overlooked is the newly renovated Brotherhood of Thieves. This bar and restaurant, located on Broad Street, serves upscale pub food in a dramatically dark setting. Also a must is American Seasons situated just around the corner from The Century House. This restaurant’s talented chefs present cuisine from the four corners of the US. The carefully selected wine list compliments their innovative appetizers and entrees. I savored every morsel of the sake glazed tuna. Be sure to save room for dessert. The mini chocolate molten cake was decadent and delicious. The Rope Walk, a small establishment found directly on Straight Wharf is a great place to spend the early evening. The back bar has French doors that open out onto the wharf’s slips. Enjoy some clams on the half shell and a cocktail as you watch boats coming in from their day trips. Being an avid sushi lover, I was thrilled with the quality of the fish at Sushi by Yoshi. This tiny eatery offers take out as well.

Nantucket is an excellent destination for all members of your family.  With so much to do and see, everyone is sure to enjoy it.

For more information:
www.centuryhouse.com
www.crossrip.com

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