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A Day in CalaisBy Marilyn LoeserA day trip to Calais, France from Dover, England will net you a wealth of natural beauty and centuries of world history. For my daughter Olivia and me, our day in Calais had a third wonderful component. We were spending it with our friends Karen and Simon Watts. From the Port of Dover, five ferry companies shuttle more than a million passengers to France every month. Although ferries travel to Dunkerque and Boulogne, Calais is by far the most popular destination making it the world’s second leading passenger port. Our journey across the English Channel took just over two hours. History of CalaisFor Simon, this was a trip he made often as a young man. Born and raised in Dover, he and his mates made “beer runs” to buy alcohol due to the large difference in taxation between Britain and France. For Karen, raised in Suffolk, this was only her second expedition to Calais. Most often associated as a shopping destination — whether guests arrive by ferry or by Eurostar Train through the Channel Tunnel — the city started as a small fishermen's village, receiving its charter of customs in 1181. In 1347, King of England Edward III’s siege of Calais lasted 11 months. The angry king demanded reprisals against the town's citizens for holding out so long and ordered that the town's population be killed. He agreed to spare them on the condition that six of the principal citizens give themselves up to die. When the six surrendered, the king’s wife Phillipa of Hainault intervened and their lives were spared. The city remained under English rule until 1558 when the French took advantage of a weakened garrison and decayed fortifications to retake it. Visiting for the dayWhen our ferry docked, we rode a bus to the center of the city. Because of the currency change, make sure and exchange a few British pounds or American dollars for Euros when you purchase your ferry tickets in Dover in order to pay for the bus ticket.
Simon, who traveled throughout France as a child with his family and a young adult, suggested we continue along Rue Royale to Parc Richelieu before heading back to the ferry.
Built in 1862 the Richlieu Gardens were redesigned in 1956. Rodin’s statue of the Burghers of Calais occupied the strip of land in front of the gardens from 1895 to 1924 before it was moved to the Town Hall and replaced by the 1914 to 1918 war memorial. The monument, a work by sculptor Moreau-Vauthier, was damaged by bombing during the German occupation. In its place is a memorial by Yves de Coetlogon in remembrance of the fallen in both World Wars. The woman, a symbol of peace, presses an olive tree branch to her breast.
Another museum located in the park just opposite Town Hall is the Musée de la Guerre. Housed in an old German communications bunker, the museum focuses on life here during WWII. Ninety percent of the city was leveled by round-the-clock bombing during the war. Occupied by German forces in the Pas-de-Calais/Flanders region, it was heavily fortified as it was believed by the Germans that the Allies would invade at that point. The invasion took place well to the west in Normandy. The city was liberated by Canadian forces in October 1944. Another reminder of the city’s long history is the church of Notre Dame dating back to the 13th century. Other sights worthy of a visit include the old harbor and old lighthouse which dates from 1848. The lighthouse offers a good view of the port and surrounding area. If you go: For more information in ferry service, check the website: http://www.doverport.co.uk/. For additional Calais information including hotels, restaurants and attractions check the website: http://www.france.com/regions/index.cfm?region_id=19. All photos by Marilyn Loeser |
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We
arrived in the old town just after lunch. The town walls have gone but the canal
that formed the moat around the town remains. The 13th century watchtower in the
Place d'Armes also survives. It was close to this watchtower that the six
officials offered their lives if the English king would spare the lives of the
rest of the citizens. 
We
walked past the watchtower and into the center of the business district along
Rue Royale. Browsing more than buying, it seemed to me one of the best buys here
— besides alcohol and tobacco — was jewelry. 
The
park was ablaze with flowers as we approached the garden and war memorial.
For
visitors staying longer in Calais, a museum tracing the history of lace makings
in the city is documented at the