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Hungry for the New Budapest

By Rita Cook

It had been about eight years since I had visited the once communist city of Budapest, Hungary.  On my earlier trip I remember feeling a sense of despair and darkness despite the sunshine and openness of the city.  Nowadays, Budapest is a much happier place and while my Burger King combo meal has gone from a dollar to about $3 instead, the changes are worth the price tourists have to pay.

To begin, Budapest is actually two different areas with the Danube River breaking them up; these areas are Buda and Pest.  For the best chance to get an overall view of the city take the Legenda sightseeing boat tour along the Danube and enjoy a narrated trip down the river with a female and male rendition of what is happening on both the Buda (female) and Pest (male) sides of the river.

One attraction that will surely draw you to Budapest is the taking of the waters. In fact, people have been visiting Budapest to take the waters since the 1500s.  Visitors can still enjoy Rudas, a Turkish bath that was built around that time and still boasts some of the original fittings.  While there are many spas in the city, Gellert Spa is one of the most pristine spas for the discerning traveling complete with bubble baths, an open air wave pool and thermal pools of varying temperatures.

Castle quarter on Castle Hill is a must-see stop and part of the World Heritage.  It was, in fact settled in the 13th century after a Tartar invasion.  It was at this time that King Bela IV decided to build his castle out of harms way above sea level.  Miraculously the castle has survived and still has three churches, six museums and a number of historical buildings, streets and squares for visitors to enjoy.

Museums and churches have always played a large role in Budapest’s history so appropriately it is here that you will definitely want to visit some of these popular historical sites.  The Dohany Street Synagogue is one of Europe’s largest synagogues and was built in a Byzantine-Moorish style by the Viennese architect Ludwig Forster in the middle of the 19th century.  It is faced in white and red brick with ceramic, decorative elements and two onion-dome towers.

St. Stephen’s Basilica is another imposing fortress and is the largest church in Budapest.  Construction began on the church in 1851 and was not complete until 1905.  It is a neo-classical building holding the greatest reliquary of the people of Hungary, that of a mummified arm and Holy Right of King St. Stephen.  There is also some great artwork in the church including the painting by Gyula Benczur of St. Stephen dedicating the country to the Virgin Mary.

Other stops along the Budapest history route are the Matthias Church built between the 13th and 15th centuries with an amazing collection of church relics.  Don’t miss the Fisherman’s Bastion as well, which sits next to Matthias church and was once the site of the medieval fish market of Budapest. 

Even with all the amazing history that makes up this city, one of the most moving places you will find yourself will be Heroes Square at the entrance to City Park. From Andrassy Boulevard you can’t miss the high columns in the center of the Millennium memorial with a statue of the Archangel Gabriel holding the Hungarian Holy Crown and double cross.  The Square also boasts statues of great people from Hungarian history commemorated for the entire world to see.  There is also the tomb of the unknown soldier directly in front of the monument.  Further inside the park are the Palace of Arts and the Museum of Fine Arts.  For a snapshot of Budapest’s more modern interests you will find the ever-present Gypsy’s playing music for money at the park.  While most people enjoy the music, locals warn that encouraging these folks is not a good idea.

For those interested in Hungary’s communist era, or as locals calls it “the communist times,” there is a place called Statue Park. It is in this park where the statues from the communist era have been collected after being torn down following the political changes in the country in 1989 and 1990.  Here you can find Lenin’s statue, the statue of Marx and Engels, which was once located in front of the headquarters of the communist party and the Red Army’s statues that once stood as monuments of supposed heroic military duty. 

If you have seen enough of the city and just want to relax make your way to the Buda Hills, a wonderful place to enjoy the day.  It is here that you will find forests with well-marked hiking trails.  If walking is not of interest take the chair-lift running up Janos Hill and offering spectacular views of the city.

Outdoor lovers can also head to Margaret Island, which sits in the Danube River between Buda and Pest with Arpad Bridge and Margaret Bridge as landmarks. The historical relevance of this island dates back to the 11th century with such sites as the UNESCO-protected Water Tower, musical well, open-air stage, church of St. Michael and ruins of a nunnery and two additional churches.  More modern amenities on the island are a swimming pool, two hotels and restaurants for visitors to the island.

Shopping can be fun in Budapest and quite inexpensive along Vaci Street where jewelers give way to perfumeries and clothes shops.  The Budapest Central Market Hall is a great stop inside a 100 year-old building holding every kind of food imaginable from garlic to fruit to vegetables and giving way to flower shops and typical Hungarian merchandise.

For a final stop drop in at the House of Hungarian Wines with 700 different types of wine from 22 Hungarian wine regions.  While visiting you will have a chance to try a variety of 55 different lines from the various vineyards and your wine glass goes home with you when you’ve finished your sommelier duties.

Indeed, Budapest has made positive changes since those 15 years ago when the struggles to survive where still very real in Hungary.  Hungary has recently joined the EU so while prices are still inexpensive be sure and make a trip to this Eastern European jewel before it looses its old world charm.

Travel information on Hungary: www.gotohungary.com

Getting there:
Hungarian’s National Airline Malev with flights from New York’s JFK airport
www.malev.hu

Where to Stay:
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus
Erzsebet ter 7-8
1051
Budapest, Hungary
www.kempinski-budapest.com

Dinner Plans:
Shakespeare Etterem
Budapest 1051 Sas u. 4.
Tel./Fax: +36-1-266-8758

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