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Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel - Is Bigger Better?

By Kate Jones and Darryl Beeson

The bold wine growers of Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley hosted the sixth annual "Insider's Exploration of Dry Creek Valley" in early August, featuring a powerful panel discussion asking if Bigger is Better? A cool, foggy morning greeted the visitors, not unusual for the valley with a name that says heat, an afternoon temperature of 96+ degrees was forecast. This has been Zinfandel's home since 1870.

Association president, Peter Van Alyea, introduced the moderator, Grady Wann, wine maker/general manager of Quivira Vineyards, and the four panelists: Dave Rafanelli, proprietor, A. Rafanelli Winery; Eric Cinnamon, wine maker, Rancho Zabaco; Phyllis Zouzounis, owner/wine maker, Deux Amis Winery; and Ted Seghesio, wine maker, Seghesio Family Vineyards.

Is Bigger Better?

"California is blessed with an overabundance of sunshine and tends to produce either bolder, more fruit-forward wines, or wines that are over-bearing, too alcoholic and lack the finesse necessary for aging and food compatibility," notes moderator Wann. "On the other hand, European wines are either elegant examples of balance and terroir, or wines that wanted to be bigger but just couldn't get fully ripe. It depends on what side of the barrel you are standing."  Brix levels (a measurement of sugar level in non fermented juice) at harvest have continued to steadily increase over the last 10 years. With heat spikes, grapes can go from 24.5 to 28 brix in 24 hours, therefore they must be harvested fast.

"No variety is more in the spotlight than Zinfandel." This varietal has come to represent the New World style - a poster child for this trend toward big wines. "Its bold, forward, very jammy fruit makes a wine that reflects the brash, independent American spirit," explained Wann. "The fact that it has no real European reference point also may allow it to stray a little further from the classic model in table wines than other varietals." For Wann, this trend toward higher alcohol levels in Zinfandel has been especially
apparent, noting alcohol levels in excess of 15, or even 15-1/2 percent.  What is happening in Dry Creek Valley, one of the best places to grow this variety?

Modern Vineyard Practices Allow Grapes to Get Riper

A third generation winemaker, Dave Rafanelli has been involved with planting and raising premium wine grapes in Dry Creek Valley since 1964. He spoke to the recent history of Zinfandel in Dry Creek Valley - from the 1960s when it was used as a blending grape in red table wine, selling for $125-$175/ton (equaling $3-5 per bottle), to the present where it has surpassed all other varieties in importance and averages $2,700/ton or more. "During the 1960s and '70s, there were few vineyard management techniques as far as upgrading quality on Zinfandel vines because of the low price of the grapes" said Rafanelli. "People couldn't put the attention, labor and time into the
variety." Irrigation practices at that time were an overhead type of sprinkler that flooded the vines at certain periods of the year. Being the variety that it is, Zinfandel tended to suck up the extra moisture, making bigger berries and tighter clusters which diluted some of the flavors.  "During the '60s and '70s, Zinfandel ripened during the latter part of harvest," explained Rafanelli. "We had a hard time getting our grapes to ripen to 24 degrees Brix."

Prices for Zinfandel increased in the 1980s, as more consideration was focused on varietals. Growers and wineries could put more attention into the vineyards. Cleaner clones and rootstocks were planted. Vineyard management techniques such as shoot and cluster thinning; reduction of fruiting wood by pruning practices in the winter; and more specific site and soil selection, resulted in better quality and a greater supply of Zinfandel grapes.  Irrigation practices also changed in the late '80s and '90s when more drip systems were put into place. The result, better quality Zinfandel throughout the heat spells and spikes that occur during harvest. "I would like to see Zinfandel styles stay more in the middle range so they can be enjoyed with food," said Rafanelli.

Some Like Their Zinfandel Big, Bold and Chewy

A kid, possibly a kid savant in his early 30s, Eric Cinnamon is wine maker at Rancho Zabaco. He has established a personal style on the Zinfandels, making big, bold wines. "At Rancho Zabaco, the only red wine we make is Zinfandel," explains Cinnamon. "We source grapes from all over the state, giving me a broad picture of what is going on in California Zinfandel. What particularly distinguishes Dry Creek Valley from emerging regions, is the historical farming knowledge that is passed down from generation to
generation."

"There are many techniques that winemakers can use to minimize the impact of elevated sugars in the vineyard and winery," continued Cinnamon.  These include dropping fruit at 80 percent veraison to help the vine ripen the grapes more evenly; a knowledge and investigation of clones; selective picking; and the use of blending varietals. Other varietals such as Alicante, Petite Sirah and Carignane ripen evenly without the tendency to shrivel and give extra color and dimension to the wine, while decreasing the sugar content. Although winemakers tend to be non-interventionist by habit, when necessary, water that is lost through dehydration can be replaced in the winery. There are also new technologies used worldwide such as the spinning cone to lower alcohol, and separating alcohol and water through reverse osmosis.

Others Prefer a More Balanced Style of Zinfandel

Phyllis Zouzounis has been making Zinfandel in Dry Creek Valley for more than 25 years. Most recently, she was the winemaker at Mazzocco Vineyards for 12 years. Concurrently since 1987, she has also been the owner and winemaker at Deux Amis Winery. For Phyllis, making Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is about balance, style and consistency. "Zinfandel is a unique animal," said Zouzounis. "As a winemaker, I look for balance in the fruit. I want to make a big, bold, juicy wine without having under-ripe or over-ripe character. Newcomers keep pushing the envelope, but higher alcohol doesn't
equal great wine. How high is too high? "  Zouzounis' goal is consistency, vintage to vintage.

Three Types of Producers

Ted Seghesio grew up next door to his family's Seghesio Winery in Healdsburg and has been winemaker since 1979. Ted divides Zinfandel producers into three categories. "The first type is an artisan producer," said Seghesio.  "This producer is a good farmer; his fruit has site specific character and the wines have a proprietary style. The wines are consistently more food friendly and more age-worthy. The producer is not pushed by any trends but pushes himself to craft wines that oftentimes are termed 'elegant,' which is a positive in my book."

According to Seghesio, another type of producer is the one that is pushed into the ultra-ripe style of winemaking, producing wines that sometimes have a dead-fruit quality. "These wines are made from fruit grown in vineyards that are not well-managed," he said. Oftentimes, during the chaos of harvest, the grapes are not picked in time. "It is well documented how unevenly Zinfandel ripens. When the fruit is unevenly ripened there will be an uneven wine quality with dry, raisin-like, leafy characteristics. I can't
imagine how these wines can be attractive to anyone, but they are in the marketplace."

"The third type of producer deliberately pushes maturity to ultra-ripe proportions, producing beastly, syrupy wines," he continued. "They do this with great confidence, because they have better viticultural practices, and the winemakers spend a lot of time working in the vineyard with the growers and vineyard managers. Another reason why these producers have so much confidence is that many opinion makers drool over these beastly wines. These wines are huge, sometimes sweet and they are sexy for about one glass. Sometimes these wines gain cult status."

In concluding, Seghesio questioned whether the critics are pushing the producers to riper styles or if producers are responding to consumer demand.

In many instances, producers, out of necessity, are market driven. "In the end, it is about fruit quality," pleads Seghesio. One panelist boasted of producing a 16.9 percent alcohol Zinfandel that was in perfect balance.  Bigger can be better, as long as the wine tastes good, was the panel's consensus.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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