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In the Footsteps of Josephine BakerA Visit to Her Chateau in France, Home of the Rainbow TribeBy Will Snyder
She had a dream. She and her fourth husband Jo Bouillon –stymied by Josephine’s two miscarriages- created a family of adopted children from the 4 corners of the earth, and raised them in their hillside French chateau and surrounding grounds. Theirs was a vision called the Rainbow Tribe, and they didn’t stop adopting children until they had 12 youngsters, nearly all from different nations and races. Journalists and tourists were welcome to Milandes to witness a community of love: an unabashed black woman uniting children from the four corners of the earth to live in harmony. Josephine brought many family members from the USA to help out, taking different roles in the operation of the castle and village, creating a model family adoption and entertainment center.
Friends again came to the rescue. Princess Grace gave her a house in Monaco, and she never returned to the Dordogne. Ten years later, she died during a courageous comeback on the stage in Paris. Her legend has continued to grow ever since.
Looking at Josephine’s life in any detail makes one realize
just how extraordinary nearly every aspect of her character and personality
really were.
She was also stubborn to a high degree. At the time of her financial crisis, she was given expert advice by her high-positioned friends, none of which she really listened to. One benefactor who was just getting started on a holiday center business called Club Med offered to pay off all her debts if she would give him a lease to bring a few guests to the village. True to herself, she of course refused.
Not to be missed are the Birds of Prey and Falconry shows that take place in the chateau/ museum garden overlooking the beautiful Dordogne valley. For no additional cost. All in all, a truly magical visit. -Chateau des Milandes, 24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, France. Tel : 33.553.593.121. www.milandes.com, email : josephin-les-milandes@wanadoo.fr -Images #1 and 6 by Will Snyder, all others Rights Reserved, National Archives USA New York Times Paris. |
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TM
Ernest
Hemingway called her “the most sensational woman anybody ever saw, or ever
will.” Non-stop energy, sexual and political, she never accepted defeat, kept
reaching out for a better world. The still-inspiring Josephine Baker has been
honored in 2006, the centenary of her birth. And fans of hers keep heading to
the castle in southwest France where she built the “humanist” legend, to add to
the showbiz, Nazi resistance and ball-breaking legends secured elsewhere.
The amazing rags-to-riches story goes like this: born poor
and black in race-riot torn East St. Louis, joined a traveling Negro Revue in
her teens, rising nightclub star Josephine became the rage of Paris with her
risqué banana skirt shimmying. She was a stunning artistic and commercial
success, becoming the highest paid woman entertainer in Europe in the late
1920’s. She fell in love with a lot of men, but also with a 300 acre estate with
a 15th century castle known as Les Milandes in the Perigord, Southwest France.
Josephine was a hero of the French resistance during WWII. Once the war was
over, and she had secured her Legion of Honor award from Charles de Gaulle, she
bought the castle (and village) and moved in.
The
dream lasted a little over 20 years. By 1968, husband Jo had left for Argentina.
Josephine was a terrific entertainer, but a poor money manager. Her American
family proved unable to help. Local suppliers took advantage of the situation
and lack of controls. Financial ruin was averted on several occasions by
donations from friends and benefactors. But the beautiful candle was burning
out, and the wheels of justice finally closed the door on the dream when the
village and castle were sold at public auction. Josephine was publicly
humiliated by the new owners, and a famous photograph shows her locked outside
the medieval kitchen in the rain in her bathrobe.
The Milandes
Chateau/ museum is open to the public, and is a rare treat, a “must-see” for
Americans visiting France. The museum recently unveiled a centenary statue of
Josephine by a local French artist. It shows her with several of her adopted
children, happy in their Dordogne village- before her financial woes led to a
bitter end of the French country dream. As Langston Hughes, who knew
Josephine when she first hit the stage said of her, "There was something about
her rhythm, her warmth, her smile, and her impudent grace that made her stand
out."
In
addition to aiding the French cause during the Nazi occupation of Paris, she
used her presence to fight for civil rights in the US, and was honored by the
NAACP. She demonstrated alongside Bob Dylan and others in the 1963 March on
Washington rally. Ever a friend of the rich and famous, she always kept her
heart on the side of the oppressed. She was extravagant but human, show-biz yet
compassionate for the less fortunate, before it was the politically correct
thing to do.
Chateau des Milandes
today offers a window on the world of Josephine, with self-guided tours with
English explanation, through the splendid rooms of the castle. You visit the
dining room, bedrooms and bathrooms, and halls dedicated to show business,
costumes, awards and the Rainbow Tribe. There are many photographs, original
posters and a sequential visit that follows the chapters of her life. Lots of
souvenirs, and a wonderful park and refreshment area. Not tacky at all.