|
TM
SUGAR SKULLS AND ALTARS!
MEXICO CELEBRATES DAY OF THE DEAD
Edited by Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady
There are lots of things I love about Mexico. One is they
really know how to celebrate.
Even when remembering the dead, the focus is on eating and
candy.
Dancing Calacas
(skeletons)! Chocolate coffins!...and Pan de Muertos (bread of the dead)!
Celebrated on October 31 (Young Souls Day), November 1 (All Saints Day) and 2
(All Souls Day), Day of the Dead is one of Mexico’s most important holidays
paying homage to the dearly departed. While traditions vary from state to state,
there are some standard features that unify these celebrations and make them an
incredible display of culture and tradition.
Since
prehispanic times, it is believed that on these days, the souls of the departed
return to visit living relatives and eat and drink as they did when alive.
Families gather to honor their ancestors through ofrendas (altars), typically
decorated with cempasuchil (marigolds), candles, photographs of the departed and
the deceased’s favorite foods and beverages, as well as many other small
trinkets, including small coffins, often with pop-up skeletons. These altars
range in size and are placed both in homes and at the gravesites.
Calaveras (skulls) form an important part of Day of the Dead celebrations.
Originally, skulls and skeletons were represented in the art of prehispanic
Mexico, particularly the Aztec civilization which ruled much of Mexico at the
time of the Spanish conquest. The skull also forms an important part of the
altar, where they are decorated with paper foil for eyes and colored icing for
hair. Names can be added to the skull and Mexican children often exchange named
skulls with their friends. Sweets and candy skulls are traditionally intended
for the angelitos(little angels)—the young souls of departed children, who
return to earth in the late afternoon of October 31.
Another must is pan de muertos, made with anise, sugar, butter, eggs, flour,
yeast and orange peel, and decorated with strips of dough simulating bones. It
is tradition for families to come together and share bread in remembrance of the
dearly departed. Another
traditional dish is the tasty calabaza en tacha (candied
pumpkin), prepared with cinnamon and brown sugar.
The use of the calavera extends beyond Day of the Dead. Nineteenth-century
Mexican artist and printmaker Jose Guadalupe Posada (1851-1913) used the image
to comment on the political corruption and social inequities of his time by
depicting politicians and legendary figures into a world of skeletons and
skulls. He produced more than 900 illustrations throughout his lifetime that are
still used today. One of his most famous drawings is that of La Catrina, who is
elegantly dressed to go out with her great feathered hat. The figure poked fun
at the French-styled ladies of his era, that is to say, they imitated the
fashions of France.
While the entire nation celebrates Day of the Dead, some of the liveliest
displays are in Janitzio, Michoacan; Oaxaca City, Oaxaca; and the village of
Mixquic on the outskirts of Mexico City. Other noteworthy festivities are held
in Merida, Yucatan; Huejutla, Hidalgo; Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas; and Jesus
Maria, Nayarit.
Oaxaca, Oaxaca State
For
one of Mexico’s most colorful and magical displays of Day of the Dead, visit
Oaxaca City in Oaxaca. Local markets burst with preparatory activities, and
playful skeleton imagery adorns storefronts and home windows. The festival
formally begins on October 31st, where families pay honor to their ancestors or
deceased loved ones with the careful and sometimes elaborate construction of an
in-house altar. Over the years, the altars have evolved into objects of art,
making this celebration a true exhibition. Typically, homes are open to those
interested in paying homage to their dead.
Throughout the three days, the city arranges events at the local San Miguel
Cemetery, such as exhibitions, altar competitions, music and prayers for the
dead. In Oaxaca City’s zocalo (main square), competing groups of students mold
giant three-dimensional sand paintings depicting tombs, skeletons, ghosts and
other aspects of death.
Another mainstay during the festivities is the Oaxacan mole negro (black mole),
a rich sauce consisting of more than twenty different spices and considered the
“king of moles” in the region. Typically served in tamales, the savory paste is
enjoyed by both the living and the dead. For more information, visit
www.oaxaca.gob.mx.
Janitzio, Michoacan State
In the heart of southern
Michoacan State is Lake Patzcuaro, home to the island of Janitzio. The island of
nearly 1500 inhabitants is renowned for its impressive and colorful Day of the
Dead celebrations. Pre-preparations abound as many families even grow their own
cempasuchils, believing that doing so is more appropriate for their offerings.
The squares fill with stands that offer all types of colorful figures allusive
to death, the most popular made of sugar.
At night, boats are
decorated with candles and flowers, loaded with local villagers and visitors who
are taken to the island’s cemetery. There they spend the night, summoning back
the dead in celebration as the sounds of bells ringing, people chanting and the
smell of incense fill the air. The following evening, fishermen paddle their
torch-lit canoes around the lake, where they do a performance of butterfly net
throwing.
Once the sun sets, the
dancing begins. The Danza de los Viejitos (Dance of the Old Men) native of
Michoacan State and believed to date from prehispanic times is performed as a
ritual honoring the Sun. To get to the island, it is necessary to take small
boats that run frequently throughout the day. For more information, visit
www.michoacan.gob.mx.
Mixquic, Mexico City
Only 25 miles southeast of
Mexico City is the village of Mixquic, a magnet for visitors and locals during
Day of the Dead. The area takes on a busy and festive air in the final days of
October as merchants set up street stands to hawk their wares for the Day of the
Dead. In the cemetery, all family burial plots are elaborately embellished with
an array of earthly delights in the hope of luring departed spirits.
Each year, a street fair is
held from October 30 to November 2 that fills the village streets fanning out
from the main plaza. Similar to the Halloween tradition in the United States, on
the night of Oct. 31, children go from house to house asking for goodies. Most
homes have large, intricate altars for Day of the Dead. Children kneel at the
altar and recite prayers before being offered food-gifts. Then, they move on to
the next home repeating the same ritual of kneeling and prayers. To light their
way, children carry carved green and white chilacayote (squash), which look
incredibly similar to jack-o-lanterns.
As darkness falls upon
Mixquic, the glow of thousands of votive candles illuminates the way for the
dead. At midnight they are called home with the mournful tolling of bells. Then
each soul is lovingly remembered with recitations of the Rosary. The food-laden
street fair roars outside the church graveyard, villagers descend upon the
cemetery with food, drink, candles and cempasuchil. For more information, visit
www.tlahuac.df.gob.mx/turismo/.
MORE DELICIOUS THINGS ABOUT MEXICO
BEST MAP
Hammond International
Mexico and Central America
www.hammondmap.com
GUIDEBOOKS
FROMMERS MEXICO 2006
(comes with foldout map)
By David Baird and Lynne Bairstow
Published by Wiley Inc
www.frommers.com
MEXICO: HEALTH AND SAFETY TRAVEL GUIDE
By Robert H. Page MD and Curtis P. Page MD
Including a comprehensive directory of the best hospitals and English Speaking
Doctors
Published by MedToGo
info@medtogo.com
INSIGHT GUIDES MEXICO
Extremely well organized with lots of practical tips
Langenscheidt Publishers
www.insightguides.com
A TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE JEWISH CARIBBEAN AND SOUTH AMERICAN
By Ben G. Frank
A practical, anecdotal, and adventurous journey through historic Jewish
Caribbean and South America including Kosher restaurants, cafes, synagogues, and
museums, plus cultural and heritage sites.
LET’S GO MEXICO
Edited by Anthony Gabriele
ST.MARTIN’S PRESS
www.letsgo.com
Lonely Planet Mexico
Well organized with great pictures and maps
Terrific section on shopping
www.lonelyplanet.com
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES MEXICO
DK PUBLISHING, INC
WWW.dk.com
FOLK WISDOM OF MEXICO
By Jeff M. Sellers
Proverbs turn truth into Poetry
www.chronicebooks.com
TRAVELERS TALES GUIDES
MEXICO
Edited by James O’Reily and Larry Habegger
MEXICAN DAYS
Journeys into the Heart of Mexico
By Tony Cohan
www.broadwaysbooks.com
MOON HANDBOOKS PACIFIC MEXICO
By Bruce Whipperman
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.Moon.com
Michelin Tourist Guide to Mexico, Guatemala and Belize
HIDDEN BAJA
By Richard Harris
Ulysses Press
www.ulyssespress.com
MEXICO CITY
INSIGHT POCKET GUIDE MEXICO CITY
APA Publications
www.insightguides.com
LONELY PLANET MEXICO CITY'
By John Noble
www.lonelyplanet.com
MOON HANDBOOK MEXICO CITY
By Chris Humphrey and Joe Cummings
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.moon.com
OAXACA
MOON HANDBOOKS OAXACA
By Bruce Whipperman
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.moon.com
Oaxaca
The Spirit of Mexico
Judith Cooper Hayden
Workman Publishing
www.artisanbooks.com
EAT SMART IN MEXICO
A travel Guide for Food Lovers
By Joan & David Peterson
Ginko Press
www.gingkopress.com
LIVE BETTER SOUTH OF THE BORDER
By Mexico Mike Nelson
Fulcrum Publishing
www.fulcrum-books.com
ON MEXICAN TIME
By Tony Cohan
An American writer and his wife find a new home-- and a new lease on life--in
the charming sixteenth-century hill town of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
BEST SOUVENIRS OF MEXICO
legal drugs. I always get Retin-A for myself and friends. I
know people who also buy antibiotics and other prescription drugs that are
available over-the-counter in Mexico
Damiana. A sweet liquor believed to be an aphrodisiac. I
think it works because it is so yummy you drink too much. And the bottle could
be a collector’s item, it is shaped like a voluptuous nude woman
Mexican sea salt. Easily available in supermarkets. A
wonderful gifts for gourmet foodie friends.
Other food gifts include mountain grown coffee, Mexican
vanilla, and sweets made of tamarindo and coconut.
MOST REQUESTED THINGS TO BRING BACK FOR FRIENDS
RETINA- if you are old enough to need it, you know what it
is and will appreciate that it costs about 90% less if you buy it in Mexico. If
you have lots of friends who want it, it may be worth a trip to Walmart. But
call ahead and tell them you want to order some, the day I was there they only
had 3 tubes in stock. I had had four disappointed friends.
Kahlua
Mezcal with a worm
MY FAVORITE MEXICAN DRINK
Dirty banana (recipe compliments of Dorado Pacifico
Ixtapa)
½ oz. condensed milk
½ oz. coconut cream
½ oz coffee liquer
1 oz. brandy
½ banana
Combine all ingredients and blend with ice
Serve in tall glass garnished with a banana slice
TO GET A TASTE OF MEXICO AT HOME
CULINARY MEXICO
By Daniel Hoyer
Gibbs Smith Publisher
www.gibbs-smith.com
LA COMIDA DEL BARIO
By Ron Sanchez
Latin-American cooking in the USA
Sanchez is one of the cohosts of MELTING POT on Food Network
Clarkson Potter Publishers
www.randomhouse.com
www.clarksonpotter.com
A YUCATAN KITCHEN
By Loretta Scott Miller
Regional recipes from Mexico’s Mundo Maya\
Pelican
www.pelicanpub.com
SPEAK LIKE A NATIVE
HIDE THIS SPANISH BOOK
Berlitz
The cover gives this warning: Highly inflammatory text inside, so not open near
Spanish teachers, not for classroom use. Inside, you will find the lingo on
sex—before, during and after, and fashion trends and styles.
www.berlitzbooks.com/hidethisbook.htm
LISTEN TO THE SOUNDS OF MEXICO
LATIN PLAYGROUNDS
A Fiesta of upbeat Latin American music for children and families
Putumayo World Music
www.putumayo.com
MEXICO
Savor the spicy and romantic flavors of Mexican music from the “sones” of
Veracruz to the “boleros” of Oaxaca
www.putumayo.com
MUSIC FROM THE COFFEE LANDS
Melodic, uplifting Latin and African songs are the essence of this musical
journey. Get a cup of coffee, sit back and enjoy this music from the “coffee
lands”
www.putumayo.com
A portion of the proceeds from the sale of this CD will be contributed to Coffee
Kids, an International non-profit organization established to improve the
quality of life for children and families who live in coffee-growing communities
around the world.
Photos courtesy of Mexican Tourism Board
Back to TravelLady Magazine |