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SUGAR SKULLS AND ALTARS!

MEXICO CELEBRATES DAY OF THE DEAD

Edited by Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady

There are lots of things I love about Mexico. One is they really know how to celebrate.

Even when remembering the dead, the focus is on eating and candy.

Dancing Calacas (skeletons)! Chocolate coffins!...and Pan de Muertos (bread of the dead)! Celebrated on October 31 (Young Souls Day), November 1 (All Saints Day) and 2 (All Souls Day), Day of the Dead is one of Mexico’s most important holidays paying homage to the dearly departed. While traditions vary from state to state, there are some standard features that unify these celebrations and make them an incredible display of culture and tradition.

Since prehispanic times, it is believed that on these days, the souls of the departed return to visit living relatives and eat and drink as they did when alive. Families gather to honor their ancestors through ofrendas (altars), typically decorated with cempasuchil (marigolds), candles, photographs of the departed and the deceased’s favorite foods and beverages, as well as many other small trinkets, including small coffins, often with pop-up skeletons. These altars range in size and are placed both in homes and at the gravesites.

Calaveras (skulls) form an important part of Day of the Dead celebrations. Originally, skulls and skeletons were represented in the art of prehispanic Mexico, particularly the Aztec civilization which ruled much of Mexico at the time of the Spanish conquest. The skull also forms an important part of the altar, where they are decorated with paper foil for eyes and colored icing for hair. Names can be added to the skull and Mexican children often exchange named skulls with their friends. Sweets and candy skulls are traditionally intended for the angelitos(little angels)—the young souls of departed children, who return to earth in the late afternoon of October 31.

Another must is pan de muertos, made with anise, sugar, butter, eggs, flour, yeast and orange peel, and decorated with strips of dough simulating bones. It is tradition for families to come together and share bread in remembrance of the dearly departed. Another

traditional dish is the tasty calabaza en tacha (candied pumpkin), prepared with cinnamon and brown sugar.

The use of the calavera extends beyond Day of the Dead. Nineteenth-century Mexican artist and printmaker Jose Guadalupe Posada (1851-1913) used the image to comment on the political corruption and social inequities of his time by depicting politicians and legendary figures into a world of skeletons and skulls. He produced more than 900 illustrations throughout his lifetime that are still used today. One of his most famous drawings is that of La Catrina, who is elegantly dressed to go out with her great feathered hat. The figure poked fun at the French-styled ladies of his era, that is to say, they imitated the fashions of France.

While the entire nation celebrates Day of the Dead, some of the liveliest displays are in Janitzio, Michoacan; Oaxaca City, Oaxaca; and the village of Mixquic on the outskirts of Mexico City. Other noteworthy festivities are held in Merida, Yucatan; Huejutla, Hidalgo; Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas; and Jesus Maria, Nayarit.

Oaxaca, Oaxaca State

For one of Mexico’s most colorful and magical displays of Day of the Dead, visit Oaxaca City in Oaxaca. Local markets burst with preparatory activities, and playful skeleton imagery adorns storefronts and home windows. The festival formally begins on October 31st, where families pay honor to their ancestors or deceased loved ones with the careful and sometimes elaborate construction of an in-house altar. Over the years, the altars have evolved into objects of art, making this celebration a true exhibition. Typically, homes are open to those interested in paying homage to their dead.

Throughout the three days, the city arranges events at the local San Miguel Cemetery, such as exhibitions, altar competitions, music and prayers for the dead. In Oaxaca City’s zocalo (main square), competing groups of students mold giant three-dimensional sand paintings depicting tombs, skeletons, ghosts and other aspects of death.

Another mainstay during the festivities is the Oaxacan mole negro (black mole), a rich sauce consisting of more than twenty different spices and considered the “king of moles” in the region. Typically served in tamales, the savory paste is enjoyed by both the living and the dead. For more information, visit www.oaxaca.gob.mx.

Janitzio, Michoacan State

In the heart of southern Michoacan State is Lake Patzcuaro, home to the island of Janitzio. The island of nearly 1500 inhabitants is renowned for its impressive and colorful Day of the Dead celebrations. Pre-preparations abound as many families even grow their own cempasuchils, believing that doing so is more appropriate for their offerings. The squares fill with stands that offer all types of colorful figures allusive to death, the most popular made of sugar.

At night, boats are decorated with candles and flowers, loaded with local villagers and visitors who are taken to the island’s cemetery. There they spend the night, summoning back the dead in celebration as the sounds of bells ringing, people chanting and the smell of incense fill the air. The following evening, fishermen paddle their torch-lit canoes around the lake, where they do a performance of butterfly net throwing.

Once the sun sets, the dancing begins. The Danza de los Viejitos (Dance of the Old Men) native of Michoacan State and believed to date from prehispanic times is performed as a ritual honoring the Sun. To get to the island, it is necessary to take small boats that run frequently throughout the day. For more information, visit www.michoacan.gob.mx.

Mixquic, Mexico City

Only 25 miles southeast of Mexico City is the village of Mixquic, a magnet for visitors and locals during Day of the Dead. The area takes on a busy and festive air in the final days of October as merchants set up street stands to hawk their wares for the Day of the Dead. In the cemetery, all family burial plots are elaborately embellished with an array of earthly delights in the hope of luring departed spirits.

Each year, a street fair is held from October 30 to November 2 that fills the village streets fanning out from the main plaza. Similar to the Halloween tradition in the United States, on the night of Oct. 31, children go from house to house asking for goodies. Most homes have large, intricate altars for Day of the Dead. Children kneel at the altar and recite prayers before being offered food-gifts. Then, they move on to the next home repeating the same ritual of kneeling and prayers. To light their way, children carry carved green and white chilacayote (squash), which look incredibly similar to jack-o-lanterns.

As darkness falls upon Mixquic, the glow of thousands of votive candles illuminates the way for the dead. At midnight they are called home with the mournful tolling of bells. Then each soul is lovingly remembered with recitations of the Rosary. The food-laden street fair roars outside the church graveyard, villagers descend upon the cemetery with food, drink, candles and cempasuchil. For more information, visit www.tlahuac.df.gob.mx/turismo/.

MORE DELICIOUS THINGS ABOUT MEXICO

BEST MAP

Hammond International
Mexico and Central America
www.hammondmap.com

GUIDEBOOKS

FROMMERS MEXICO 2006
(comes with foldout map)
By David Baird and Lynne Bairstow
Published by Wiley Inc
www.frommers.com

MEXICO: HEALTH AND SAFETY TRAVEL GUIDE
By Robert H. Page MD and Curtis P. Page MD
Including a comprehensive directory of the best hospitals and English Speaking Doctors
Published by MedToGo
info@medtogo.com

INSIGHT GUIDES MEXICO
Extremely well organized with lots of practical tips
Langenscheidt Publishers
www.insightguides.com

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO THE JEWISH CARIBBEAN AND SOUTH AMERICAN
By Ben G. Frank
A practical, anecdotal, and adventurous journey through historic Jewish Caribbean and South America including Kosher restaurants, cafes, synagogues, and museums, plus cultural and heritage sites.

LET’S GO MEXICO
Edited by Anthony Gabriele
ST.MARTIN’S PRESS
www.letsgo.com

Lonely Planet Mexico
Well organized with great pictures and maps
Terrific section on shopping
www.lonelyplanet.com

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES MEXICO
DK PUBLISHING, INC
WWW.dk.com

FOLK WISDOM OF MEXICO
By Jeff M. Sellers
Proverbs turn truth into Poetry
www.chronicebooks.com

TRAVELERS TALES GUIDES
MEXICO
Edited by James O’Reily and Larry Habegger

MEXICAN DAYS
Journeys into the Heart of Mexico
By Tony  Cohan
www.broadwaysbooks.com

MOON HANDBOOKS PACIFIC MEXICO
By Bruce Whipperman
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.Moon.com

Michelin Tourist Guide to Mexico, Guatemala and Belize

HIDDEN BAJA
By Richard Harris
Ulysses Press
www.ulyssespress.com

MEXICO CITY

INSIGHT POCKET GUIDE MEXICO CITY
APA Publications
www.insightguides.com

LONELY PLANET MEXICO CITY'
By John Noble
www.lonelyplanet.com

MOON HANDBOOK MEXICO CITY
By Chris Humphrey and Joe Cummings
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.moon.com

OAXACA

MOON HANDBOOKS OAXACA
By Bruce Whipperman
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.moon.com

Oaxaca
The Spirit of Mexico
Judith Cooper Hayden
Workman Publishing
www.artisanbooks.com

EAT SMART IN MEXICO
A travel Guide for Food Lovers
By Joan & David Peterson
Ginko Press
www.gingkopress.com

LIVE BETTER SOUTH OF THE BORDER
By Mexico Mike Nelson
Fulcrum Publishing
www.fulcrum-books.com

ON MEXICAN TIME
By Tony Cohan
An American writer and his wife find a new home-- and a new lease on life--in the charming sixteenth-century hill town of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

BEST SOUVENIRS OF MEXICO

legal drugs. I always get Retin-A for myself and friends. I know people who also buy antibiotics and other prescription drugs that are available over-the-counter in Mexico

Damiana. A sweet liquor believed to be an aphrodisiac. I think it works because it is so yummy you drink too much. And the bottle could be a collector’s item, it is shaped like a voluptuous nude woman

Mexican sea salt. Easily available in supermarkets. A wonderful gifts for gourmet foodie friends.

Other food gifts include mountain grown coffee, Mexican vanilla, and sweets made of tamarindo and coconut.

MOST REQUESTED THINGS TO BRING BACK FOR FRIENDS

RETINA- if you are old enough to need it, you know what it is and will appreciate that it costs about 90% less if you buy it in Mexico. If  you have lots of friends who want it, it may be worth a trip to Walmart. But call ahead and tell them you want to order some, the day I was there they only had 3 tubes in stock. I had had four disappointed friends.

Kahlua

Mezcal with a worm

MY FAVORITE MEXICAN DRINK

Dirty banana   (recipe compliments of Dorado Pacifico Ixtapa)
½ oz. condensed milk
½ oz. coconut cream
½ oz coffee liquer
1 oz. brandy
½ banana
Combine all ingredients and blend with ice
Serve in tall glass garnished with a banana slice

TO GET A TASTE OF MEXICO AT HOME

CULINARY MEXICO
By Daniel Hoyer
Gibbs Smith Publisher
www.gibbs-smith.com

LA COMIDA DEL BARIO
By Ron Sanchez
Latin-American cooking in the USA
Sanchez is one of the cohosts of MELTING POT on Food Network
Clarkson Potter Publishers
www.randomhouse.com
www.clarksonpotter.com

A YUCATAN KITCHEN
By Loretta Scott Miller
Regional recipes from Mexico’s Mundo Maya\
Pelican
www.pelicanpub.com

SPEAK LIKE A NATIVE

HIDE THIS SPANISH BOOK
Berlitz
The cover gives this warning: Highly inflammatory text inside, so not open near Spanish teachers, not for classroom use. Inside, you will find the lingo on sex—before, during and after, and fashion trends and styles.
www.berlitzbooks.com/hidethisbook.htm

LISTEN TO THE SOUNDS OF MEXICO

LATIN PLAYGROUNDS
A Fiesta of upbeat Latin American music for children and families
Putumayo World Music
www.putumayo.com

MEXICO
Savor the spicy and romantic flavors of Mexican music from the “sones” of Veracruz to the “boleros” of Oaxaca
www.putumayo.com

MUSIC FROM THE COFFEE LANDS
Melodic, uplifting Latin and African songs are the essence of this musical journey. Get a cup of coffee, sit back and enjoy this music from the “coffee lands”
www.putumayo.com
A portion of the proceeds from the sale of this CD will be contributed to Coffee Kids, an International non-profit organization established to improve the quality of life for children and families who live in coffee-growing communities around the world.

Photos courtesy of Mexican Tourism Board

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