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Crossing JordanThe Royal TourBy Robert Painter
It turns out to be not so mischievous or malicious as I might have imagined. In the midst of my expectations for this evening I failed to recall that tonight will be a full moon. As quickly as my disappointment appeared so it disappears. How could anyone be unhappy about sleeping under a full moon in Wadi Rum? I won’t see so many stars, but my imagination now moves on to thoughts of camel journeys across the desert during the cool of the night under the full moon and then resting in a shady cave during the blazing heat of the midday sun. All is well in Wadi Rum. Jordan is a special place. I know because I have just enjoyed ten wonder filled days crossing from one end of Jordan to the other. In those ten days I have seen some of the wonders of the world and met some of the friendliest people I have had the good fortune to encounter anywhere in the world. With the Marriott Hotel as a base for the first few days and an unbeatable series of restaurants, including the Fahr El Din Lebanese, the Blue Fig and the Centre Italian Restaurant I had plenty of fuel and rest for my adventures in Amman.
Yes, Jordan is in the Middle East and that is a sometimes dangerous part of the world. But Jordan is an oasis in that troubled land. Not once, not even for a moment, did I ever feel in any way unsafe or threatened or concerned for my well being. On the contrary I often felt as though I was getting some sort of special treatment, as if someone were walking ahead and instructing everyone to treat me as a most welcome guest. But no, I watched and realized that all of the obvious foreigners were being treated equally well. On a recent evening walk near my neighborhood in the U.S. one drunken individual offered to “beat me up” before suggesting that he ought to kill me! I would be very happy to restrict my evening walks to the streets in Amman and Petra.
Amman is a lovely walking city, but large enough that you may occasionally need to take a taxi. Look for a metered cab or ask at your hotel desk - they are very reasonable but you may want to occasionally close your eyes until you get used to the local driving style. I didn’t see a lot of accidents, but they do drive very close to each other. If you just have to stay connected, there are plenty of internet cafes. And lots of traditional coffeehouses where you can sample a variety of Arabic coffees and maybe even try a “hubbly bubbly.” For the uninitiated that’s a nargileh, commonly called a “shisha” but maybe better known to you as a hookah. O.K., how about a water pipe? It’s something of a social experience, more than just smoking.
Jordan Awaits
Another easy outing from Amman is the area known as “Bethany Beyond The Jordan” identified as the site where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist. You can wander down to the Jordan River and actually put your feet into the water here. And, about 10 meters away, on the other side of the narrow Jordan River you will see Israel. Mount Nebo, where Moses saw the Promised Land and where Pope John Paul II visited, will give you a view of the Jordan Valley and, on a clear day, the rooftops of Jerusalem and Bethlehem. Proceeding along the 5,000 year old King’s Highway south from Amman to Madaba be sure to visit the Greek Orthodox Church of St. George to see the sixth century Byzantine mosaics, including a map of Jerusalem with over two million pieces of colored stone. If you have time to explore Madaba you may find dozens of mosaics in Madaba’s other churches and buildings.
A first century 3,000 seat theater provides a glimpse into what must have been. The ever changing colors of the rock walls and the multi-colored rocks inside many of the tombs are a photographer’s delight. Cameras are working overtime. Donkeys and camels are equal stars with their owners and riders.
Following this desert sojourn was a most fitting visit to Aqaba on the Red Sea and a day of boating in a glass bottomed boat and snorkeling along the beautiful coral reefs. The snorkeling was very good and I am told that Scuba diving in the area is some of the best in the world. I’ll leave that for you to decide.
There is much more to see and do in Jordan. I didn’t have time to visit the nature reserves or the artist cooperatives. I rode a camel but didn’t have time to ride a magnificent Arabian stallion. Yes, I will be going back. I’ll be going to do those things and to meet and visit with and make more Jordanian friends along the way. When you go: Photos and story by Robert Painter (rpainter2006@comcast.net) |
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It’s getting dark in Wadi Rum. This is the land of
legend. The haunting reminder of Lawrence of Arabia is in the air. I am eagerly
awaiting a night sleeping under the stars in a Bedouin encampment in the
Jordanian desert. But something is wrong. The darkness is fading into light.
I’m ready to see the constellations that have been shining down on this desert
outpost for millions of years and suddenly someone has turned on a bright light
behind the mountain. Why would anyone tamper with my solitude and expectations?
Amman is the capital of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan and
one of the oldest inhabited places in the world. With over a million residents
it still maintains a warm and friendly atmosphere. As I walked through the open
air markets people of all ages came up to me to welcome me to Jordan and ask me
questions about where I was from and how I was enjoying my visit to Jordan.
Not
to be missed in Amman are the Jordan Archeological Museum and the Citadel above
the city. The small museum contains an excellent collection of
antiquities, including the famous Copper Scroll of the Dead Sea Scrolls and even
pottery coffins from the Iron Age. The Roman Forum and the Roman Theatre
date back to the second century AD. Accommodating almost 6,000 people, the
theatre is used for moonlit summer performances to this day.
Of
course, a visit to the King Abdullah Mosque is essential. How could you possibly
consider visiting this Muslim land without entering one of the beautiful
mosques? Just dress respectfully and put away your camera while people are
praying and you will be warmly welcomed.
A visit to the Royal Stables is a must for all horse
lovers. The 150+ Arabian horses, some of whose blood lines can be traced back
for 500 years will be waiting to greet you. And, if you’re really lucky, as I
was on my recent visit, Princess Alia will be there and you can have a nice
little chat with Jordanian Royalty. Her royal Highness was very cordial
and friendly and most pleased to talk about the Arabians at the royal Stables.
From Amman you can take an easy one day outing to the
ancient city of Jarash. Beginning at Hadrian’s Arch you can wander the streets
rutted from chariot wheels along the Roman Cardo or “Street of Columns.”
Neolithic, Greek, Roman, Byzantine and other ruins have been discovered in
Jarash. The city is in remarkable condition and much restoration has taken
place. In midsummer the annual Jarash Festival brings together folk
dances, ballet, concerts, opera, popular music, plays, poetry and traditional
handicrafts.
Farther along the King’s Highway you’ll find the imposing
Crusader Castle of Karak. Actually, I think it might be more accurately
described as a fortress. Long, vaulted stonework hallways and passages will give
you an idea of the architectural style of the period. Just don’t get lost
as you wander through this marvelous maze.
This
visit to the far away land of Jordan has been everything I could have hoped for,
so far. But now, my expectations are taking a giant step higher. Now
I’m going to Petra. I have seen the photos and videos. I saw Indiana
Jones: The Last Crusade. I want to see the magnificent Treasury. I
want to hike through the narrow slot canyon. I want to race a camel. I
have really high hopes and anything less will be a disappointment.
Arriving in the evening at the Petra Movenpick Hotel I am
happy to learn that it is only a short walking distance to the entry of the slot
canyon that wanders through the rocks to the ancient city of Petra. The next
day is filled with excitement. The long walk through the fascinating slot canyon
known as the siq is punctuated with the sound of donkey hooves clattering along
the walkway, some of which was paved by the early Romans. The excitement builds
with the first glimpse of the Treasury. Just a few dozen more meters
before entering the rose-red city of Petra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Petra is magnificent beyond my imagination. The pictures I
have seen have not prepared me for the breathtaking spectacle of the Treasury.
And if this magnificent tomb were not enough I find that there are hundreds of
tombs and facades cut into the rock. With multiple trails leading throughout
the valley and up into the surrounding cliffs there are discoveries to be made
at every turn. 
I
discover to my surprise that not only can you rent a camel for a ride, but, if
you can find a willing competitor, you can even race your camel. Can you
image doing that in the United States? Insurance? Liability? Legal issues?
Not likely. But here, in a land more attuned to personal responsibility, it
seems to be allowed. I won’t tell you how I fared in my camel race, but I will
tell you that my competitors began the race before I even got my camel standing
on all four feet. Maybe not fair, but tons of fun and an experience that I
will never forget!
This is a more than one day site. On my second day I hiked
in to the Monastery, a three hour walk from Little Petra. This was a
challenging and somewhat strenuous hike, but well worth the effort. A narrow
ledge along a sheer cliff will get your attention as you cross, but the journey
is well rewarded at the end when you come upon the Monastery, a gigantic first
century structure as spectacular as the Treasury. And to top if off, my guide
played his flute inside the Monastery with wonderful acoustics. How could I ask
for more?
Well, there was more to this amazing trip to Jordan. On to
Wadi Rum to experience Bedouin life with a traditional meal cooked in a firepot
buried under the desert sands. Lamb and chicken extraordinare! And all under the
magnificent full moon revealing magical shapes along the rocks and shifting
sands of the desert.
But
my journey through Jordan must come to an end and there could be no more fitting
place than 400 meters below sea level at the Dead Sea. The resorts here are
packed with weekenders from Amman as it is just a short drive from the city.
A tradition here is to go the shoreline, coat yourself with black mud and let
the sun bake it on your skin. Follow this with a soak in the Dead Sea
where you will find yourself floating effortlessly on the surface. You
couldn’t sink if you tried. As a matter of fact you will find it difficult
to stand in the shallow water because your feet will pop to the surface as soon
as you move anywhere off center. When you see the white rocks on the edge
of the lake you’ll understand why. The white on the rocks is pure salt.
You can scrape away the salt to see the underlying rock.