The Enchanting Aura Of Moors And Art Galleries Entrap
Visitors In Palma De Mallorca
By Habeeb Salloum
 “You were asking about the traces of the
Moors! Look at this courtyard and the arch before you. They are a legacy from
the Moors and these make a great background for the many art galleries that
proliferate the old city of Palma de Mallorca.” Nicole our guide appeared as if
dreaming as she went on to talk about Palma’s art galleries, seemingly her joy
of life.
 As we moved along I thought to myself,
“The ghosts of the Moors who once called Palma are still all around.” The narrow
paved spotlessly clean streets lined with cafes and tapa bars, houses with heavy
wooden doors and wrought iron gates, and patios with stone staircases and
Moorish arches, and lined with plants were a living reminder of the city’s Arab
heritage.
 Even though the Moors (the European name
for the Arabs in the Iberian Peninsula) were defeated in 1229 and enslaved by
Jaime I, King of Valencia and Aragon, their legacy remains – now an integral
part of Spanish culture. It is as if the Arabs came to enrich the Spanish
landscape then fade away into history.
 Palma, the capital of both the island of
Mallorca and the Balearic Islands, was established as the Roman city of Palmaria
then later renamed by the Arabs as Madina Mayurca and its inhabitants today
simply call it, Ciudad (city). Its population of some 375,000 is more than half
of all the inhabitants of the Balearic Islands. Set on the seductive bay, Bahia
de Palma, the city is lively and cosmopolitan. Even though it has become a
vibrant modern city, its old quarter (the old Arab town) has managed to retain
its ancient aura and charm. Foreign visitors flock into the city in large
numbers, in the main, to experience the historic flavour of this venerable
quarter.
 The still evident Moorish façade of the
old city as well as the modern tourist facilities have combined to create for
Palma a holiday destination par excellence. Most tourists especially from cruise
ships always begin by exploring the old city, once surrounded by defensive
walls, parts of which remain –some renovated. In its maze of alleyways and tiny
streets with their Moorish heritage, travellers can enjoy the atmosphere of the
Middle Ages. A good number of these streets fan out from Sa Seu, Palma’s
Cathedral constructed on the site of a former mosque which itself was erected on
the remains of a Roman temple.
 Like most tourists, after walking the
streets we began our exploration of the main sites at the Cathedral, considered
to be one of the world’s finest and largest Gothic structures as well as the
most magnificent monument in the city. The Cathedral incorporates in its
bell-tower the minaret of the former mosque and its svelte
21.47 m (70.5 ft) columns makes the Cathedral the second-highest Gothic
cathedral in Europe. Also striking is the rose window over the main altar that
measures 11.5m (38 ft) in diameter and has 97 sq m (116 sq y) of surface area
and 1,236 stained panes. Enhancing its interior is the touch of Gaudi who worked
for ten years to beautify the Cathedral.
 Edging the Cathedral, we rested a while
in Parc de la Mar with its impressive fountains and sculptures admiring the
next-door Almudaina Palace, once the seat of the Moorish rulers and located next
door to the Cathedral. With its walls rising proudly above the defensive
ramparts of the medieval quarter, this splendid palace/fortress, which still
contains a small Arab Bath, offers a panoramic view of Palma's harbour. In the
Middle Ages it was used as a Royal Palace and today it is the official residence
of the King of Spain when he visits Palma. It is also the home of the Museum of
National Heritage and houses the Harbour Office of the Balearic Islands.
 A five-minute walk from the Almudaina we
reached the Arab Baths, hidden away on a tiny street. Dating from the 10th
century and surrounded by well-tended gardens, they are the only complete
structure remaining from Arab times and believed to have been part of a
nobleman's house. The tepidarium has a dome in the shape of a half orange, with
25 round shafts for sunlight, supported by a dozen columns. After the Christians
invaded and conquered Mallorca, they obliterated almost every possible sign of
Arab/Muslim architecture and settlement. The Baths remain the last testimony of
the more than 300 years of Arab/Muslim presence on the island. They are popular
with visitors and continue to generate much historic interest.
After visiting the old city’s most
important monuments we continued our meandering in the former Arab Quarter. It
seemed that around every corner there was some reminder of the Moorish or
Medieval eras. We sampled food in tapa bars, rested in tiny plazas and talked
about Palma’s history. In every conversation Nicole would always end up talking
about the art galleries in Mallorca. As we walked along after the tour, Nicole
explained, “Here in Palma we love art. Our city has per capita more art
galleries than any place else in the world.”
 Like the writer who wrote after
exploring the old city, ‘The Arab Quarter is stylish, sophisticated, intimate
and exudes subtle Moorish influences yet bursting with life’, we had an exciting
and fulfilling day rambling through this venerable Quarter. Of the 12 million
tourists who travel annually to the Balearic Islands, 10 million of these pass
through Palma making it the most popular tourist destination in Europe.
Palma remains today an attractive and
prosperous city as it was in the days of the Moors. Jaime I, the conqueror of
the city, described it as ‘the most beautiful city that he had ever seen’ and to
many of its inhabitants it remains so today. In the words of an acquaintance in
the city, “I love my city. It’s beautiful! It’s the best place in Spain to
live!”
IF YOU GO
Facts about Palma:
-
Buses leave Palma’s airpot every 15
minutes for the city centre (Plaza España, Also taxi service is excellent.
-
Palma offers an excellent mix of
hotels, culture, history, gastronomy, shopping and nightlife.
-
Palma has no beaches in the city.
The nearest beaches are Ca’n Pastills to the east and Cala Mayor to the west
– both about 4 km (2.5 mi) away. The best beaches are Magalluf and Palma
Vova to the west of the island and Alcudia on the north coast.
-
Pearls are the gifts to buy while
visiting Palma. Mallorquin pearls, manufactured in the town of Manacor, are
world famous.
-
The favourite Mallorquin sweet is
ensaimada – a spiral-shaped bun; and sobrassada is the islands’ most famous
sausage.
-
Leaving a small tip is customary -
in bars, restaurants and hotels, from 5-10% of the cost of food or drink.
-
Palma has 17 art galleries mostly in
the old town.
Other Site to See in Palma:
-
Bellver Castle, a 14th century
Gothic structure that is the only totally circular castle in Spain with a
fine view of the city and bay. It was once a royal residence and now houses
the Palma History Museum.
-
La Lonja, a 15th century Catalan
Gothic structure, containing fine sculptures.
-
Museu de Mallorca, a converted 15th
century palace containing archaeological finds.
-
Town Hall, a 17th century structure
that is full of character and charm.
-
Basilica of San Francisco, a 13th
century church famous as the resting place of Ramon Llull, Spain’s loved
philosopher, scholar and teacher.
-
Gran Hotel, Palma's first luxury
hotel opened in 1903. Restored by the Fundacio la Caixa and reopened in 1993
as an art gallery.
Where To Stay:
There are over a thousand hotels in
Mallorca catering to all tastes. One of the top hotels in Palma to stay is
Castillo Son Vida, situated in a castle of medieval origin, surrounded by 500
hectares of subtropical parkland and with magnificent views of the bay of Palma,
the hotel is a 5-star top luxury abode. Palma de Mallorca, Spain. Tel: 34 971
790 000. Fax: 34 971 790 017. Email:
info@hotel-sonvida.com Website:
http://www.hotel-sonvida.com/index.html
For other hotels in Palma see Website:
www.mallorcahotelguide.com – Mallorca
For Further Information About, Contact:
Check Website:
http://www.illesbalears.es or e-mail:
oit@conselldemallorca.net
or,
Tourist Office of Spain, 2 Bloor St. W.,
34th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4W 3E2. Tel: 416/961-3131. Fax:
416/961-1992. E-Mail:
toronto@tourspain.es Website:
www.tourspain.toronto.on.ca
or,
The Spanish Tourist Office, 666 Fifth
Ave. 35th, New York, N.Y. 10103, U.S.A. Tel: 212/265-8822. Fax: 265-8864.
E-mail:
oetny@tourspain.es. |
|
