Venturing into the Swiss Cantons of Vaud and Valais
By Caroline M. Jackson
 It was an awkward moment. Lead by our enthusiastic city
tour guide wearing the proverbial red jacket, I hesitated on the bottom stair of
162 calf-stretching steps leading up to Lausanne’s Gothic cathedral. I glanced
down at my well-strapped fractured ankle and resolutely began the ascent. Why
hadn’t I checked my map and realized that this French-speaking city was built
atop three hills? My determination was soon rewarded when I entered the cool
interior of this magnificent 13th century edifice. Here I could discreetly rest
on a medieval pew and admire the murals and beautiful rose window. Despite my
injury, I had met my nemesis and now I could enjoy wandering around Lausanne’s
Old Town with its art galleries and chic boutiques.
 Overlooking Lake Geneva and capital of the Vaud canton, one
of the city’s greatest claims to fame is that it is home to the International
Olympic Committee (IOC) and the Olympic Museum. Located in Ouchy, Lausanne’s
lakefront quay, the museum is set in a tiered landscaped park. After ascending a
long outdoor escalator, we were introduced to the fascinating history of the
Games which date back to ancient Greece. A walk up the spiraling core of the
complex opens up to displays of medals and memorabilia from each Olympiad.
Sports enthusiasts can also immerse themselves in past glories and
disappointments by watching some of the exciting video clips. Afterwards we
enjoyed a leafy walk through the park which is scattered with contemporary
sculptures focusing on the theme of sport.
For a change of pace, we explored the Lavaux wine region
which stretches between Lausanne and Montreux. Recently listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, this region is a patchwork quilt of vineyards bordered by stone
terraces. Picture-perfect villages abound with names such as Cully, St. Saphorin
and Chardon. We began our walk from the quiet lakeside village of Lutry. Locals
exchanged pleasantries as they made their daily excursion to stock their baskets
with bread and fresh produce. It all seemed so much more civilized than the
impersonal grab-and-dash supermarket culture. After climbing up the hillside, we
met up with nonagenarian, Marc-Henri Duboux, who owns his own cellar and
oversees three hectares of vineyards. Through a translator, we learned that some
vintners have their whole family working for them and that in days gone by, it
was not unusual for families of vintners to intermarry thereby increasing their
number of vineyards. Today, however, seasonal workers are recruited from
Yugoslavia, Bosnia, Kosovo and Albania.
After clambering down a steep slope, I perched on one of
the warm terraces to absorb the atmosphere and enjoy the view across the lake
towards the Savoy Alps. Tiny lizards dozed on toasty walls, church bells tolled
in the distance and swallows darted under the cellar’s green shutters much to
the delight of vociferous nestlings.
 Contemplating a possible change in career,
I pondered on how long it would take me to become a vintner. Apparently I would
have to attend the School of Viticulture for one year, then apprentice for three
years and follow up with what Monsieur Duboux called ‘perfecting courses’. On
the row of vines next to me, I watched the skilled workers pruning leaves with
such speed and dexterity that I could barely follow their hand movements.
 This
trimming would allow for more light and thus maximize grape production. Despite
the gentle wind, I realized the lot of the workers in the heat of the day was a
backbreaking task especially as the slopes were rocky and steep. I took another
sip of local wine and decided to stay in my chosen profession.
Venturing further along the Swiss Riviera, we wandered
along the narrow alleys of Vevey’s historic quarter which has the second biggest
market square in Europe after Lisbon. The lakeside resort is also the
international headquarters of Nestle. Visitors and locals alike saunter along
the promenade and a statue of comedian Charlie Chaplin is a reminder that he and
his family enjoyed many years in Vevey.
Perhaps his grandchildren enjoyed frolicking in the pools
of the family-orientated lidos. Just a few minutes further along the lakefront
is the famous fairytale Chateau which inspired Byron to pen the famous poem “The
Prisoner of Chillon.” For the return trip, we took one of the white steamers
back to Ouchy. The boat journey gave us an opportunity to relax and see the
villages and vineyards from a different perspective.
The following day, it was time to leave the canton of Vaud
and travel south towards Martigny in the canton of Valais. From here, we took
the Mont Blanc Express to Chamonix in France. The train took us through
spectacular steep-sided valleys and deep gorges. Above us towered ‘the Roofs of
Europe’, three massive jagged peaks including Mont Blanc. Icy glaciers, their
sides a dirty blue-grey, hung over the valley and pockets of mist swirled
forebodingly over crevasses. By chance, we arrived on market day.
 Stalls were
awash with cherries, honey, goat cheese, dried fruits, local wine and pickled
hams. Purchasing seemed to be a fine art with much discourse between vendors and
patrons. Sampling produce was not a problem and in fact, seemed to be
encouraged. Every so often a vendor’s umbrella tipped over as rogue winds
whipped along the valley floor.
In summer, Chamonix is popular with tourists, mountain
bikers and hikers. The river running through the centre of town was the color of
milk chocolate and cafes spilled onto the sunny sidewalks. Tables were
surrounded by swarthy bronzed mountain climbers enjoying dishes of cheese
fondue. Beside their chairs sat unwieldy back packs laden with ropes and ice
axes. The atmosphere was friendly with visitors from many European countries
enjoying the fresh mountain air and sunshine.
 That night after being lulled to sleep by vociferous frogs
at our hotel in Martigny, we set off the next morning to visit the new St.
Bernard Dog Museum. The legendary animals have moved from the alpine Great St.
Bernard Hospice to grassy enclosures within the museum. Inside the building,
their history is told in text, paintings and carvings. These amazing animals are
trained to find travelers who have lost their way in fog, storms and big
snowfalls. The 20-minute film entitled “Francois the Pilgrim” depicting a
mountain rescue is touching and would bring a tear to the driest eye. Afterwards
we took a walk past the seven dogs who were cooling off in the shade after
enjoying a mountain hike.
Near the museum a 5,000-seat amphitheatre is part of an
archaeological walk that introduces visitors to Martigny’s Celtic and Roman
heritage. The best news is that the tour buses haven’t yet discovered this
arena. Historians and art lovers will also want to visit the cultural Foundation
Pierre Gianadda centre and the Gallo-Roman Museum which displays fascinating
archaeological relics.
 Intrigued by all this history, we decided to take a short
bus trip from Martigny to Saillon which is one of the best-preserved mediaeval
villages in Switzerland. The climb up to the top of this fortress-like hillock
was worth every labored breath. Walking through the quiet village was like
stepping back into another era and the sweeping views over the broad valley were
stunning.
Now on the last leg of our journey, we headed to Leukerbad
in the German-speaking part of the Upper Valais. We were in for a surprise. As
soon as our bus began climbing up the mountain from the Rhone valley, we were
enveloped by a snowstorm. Since it was the end of May, we were unprepared for
such low temperatures but managed to save the day by layering our clothes. After
our bus driver expertly negotiated several hairpin bends, we arrived in
Leukerbad. At an altitude of 1,400 meters, is one of the highest and largest
mountain spa resorts in Europe. Barely able to read our map, we opted for a
taxi which within minutes deposited us on the doorstep of the Hotel Astoria. A
warm welcome awaited us in this family-run hotel. Our spacious room had a
kitchen and best of all, a covered balcony. From here I watched the storm abate
and caught a glimpse of the barren face of the Daubenhorn, a steep massif
slashed with cascading waterfalls. Later, I was to learn an ancient mule track
leads from Leukerbad via the Gemmi Pass to the Bernese Oberland.
The Romans were among the first to appreciate the
therapeutic properties of the 65 thermal springs which today feed into 22 pools.
With the snow now falling gently as feathers, we ventured out to experience the
family-oriented Burgerbad and sophisticated Lindner Alpentherme spa. Surrounded
by Palladian windows, we spent the rest of the day luxuriating in the
Alpentherme pools, fountains, jets and whirlpools. Spa and massage treatments
can be booked in advance, the most unique being the Roman-Irish bath which is
not for the fainthearted with hot and cold water treatments.
Later, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of raclette at our
hotel. By then the warm Foehn, often dubbed the hairdryer wind, had melted most
of the snow so we sauntered around the centre of the traffic-free village.
On our last morning, the sun shone from brilliant blue
skies and the Daubenhorn looked almost naked now that its cloudy petticoats had
dispersed. I pondered wistfully on Mark Twain’s description of this massif: “It
comes down out of the clouds in a succession of rounded, colossal, terrace-like
projections, - a stairway for the gods; at its head spring several lofty
storm-scarred towers, one above another, with faint films of vapor curling
always about them like spectral banners.”
Contacts:
Switzerland Tourism:
http://www.MySwitzerland.com
Lausanne Tourism:
http://www.lausanne-tourisme.ch
The Olympic Museum:
http://www.olympic.org
Saint Bernard Museum:
http://www.museesaintbernard.ch
Pierre Gianadda Foundation:
http://www.gianadda.ch
Martigny Tourism:
http://www.martigny.com
Burgerbad Thermal Centre:
http://www.burgerbad.ch
Leukerbad Tourism:
http://www.info@leukerbad.ch
Mont Blanc Express:
http://www.tmrsa.ch
Swiss Rail:
http://www.sbb.ch/en
Where we stayed:
Lausanne: Best Western Hotel Mirabeau: http://www.mirabeau.ch
Leukerbad: Hotel Astoria:
http://www.astoria-leukerbad.ch
Images by Hamish M. Jackson
email:
caroline@crestlynn.com
Web:
http://www.crestlynn.com
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