Venturing into the Swiss Cantons of Vaud and Valais

By Caroline M. Jackson

It was an awkward moment. Lead by our enthusiastic city tour guide wearing the proverbial red jacket, I hesitated on the bottom stair of 162 calf-stretching steps leading up to Lausanne’s Gothic cathedral. I glanced down at my well-strapped fractured ankle and resolutely began the ascent. Why hadn’t I checked my map and realized that this French-speaking city was built atop three hills? My determination was soon rewarded when I entered the cool interior of this magnificent 13th century edifice. Here I could discreetly rest on a medieval pew and admire the murals and beautiful rose window. Despite my injury, I had met my nemesis and now I could enjoy wandering around Lausanne’s Old Town with its art galleries and chic boutiques.

Overlooking Lake Geneva and capital of the Vaud canton, one of the city’s greatest claims to fame is that it is home to the International Olympic Committee (IOC) and the Olympic Museum. Located in Ouchy, Lausanne’s lakefront quay, the museum is set in a tiered landscaped park. After ascending a long outdoor escalator, we were introduced to the fascinating history of the Games which date back to ancient Greece. A walk up the spiraling core of the complex opens up to displays of medals and memorabilia from each Olympiad. Sports enthusiasts can also immerse themselves in past glories and disappointments by watching some of the exciting video clips. Afterwards we enjoyed a leafy walk through the park which is scattered with contemporary sculptures focusing on the theme of sport.

For a change of pace, we explored the Lavaux wine region which stretches between Lausanne and Montreux. Recently listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this region is a patchwork quilt of vineyards bordered by stone terraces. Picture-perfect villages abound with names such as Cully, St. Saphorin and Chardon. We began our walk from the quiet lakeside village of Lutry. Locals exchanged pleasantries as they made their daily excursion to stock their baskets with  bread and fresh produce. It all seemed so much more civilized than the impersonal grab-and-dash supermarket culture. After climbing up the hillside, we met up with nonagenarian, Marc-Henri Duboux, who owns his own cellar and oversees three hectares of vineyards. Through a translator, we learned that some vintners have their whole family working for them and that in days gone by, it was not unusual for families of vintners to intermarry thereby increasing their number of vineyards. Today, however, seasonal workers are recruited from Yugoslavia, Bosnia, Kosovo and Albania.

After clambering down a steep slope, I perched on one of the warm terraces to absorb the atmosphere and enjoy the view across the lake towards the Savoy Alps. Tiny lizards dozed on toasty walls, church bells tolled in the distance and swallows darted under the cellar’s green shutters much to the delight of vociferous nestlings. Contemplating a possible change in career, I pondered on how long it would take me to become a vintner. Apparently I would have to attend the School of Viticulture for one year, then apprentice for three years and follow up with what Monsieur Duboux called  ‘perfecting courses’. On the row of vines next to me, I watched the skilled workers pruning leaves with such speed and dexterity that I could barely follow their hand movements. This trimming would allow for more light and thus maximize grape production. Despite the gentle wind, I  realized the lot of the workers in the heat of the day was a backbreaking task especially as the slopes were rocky and steep. I took another sip of local wine and decided to stay in my chosen profession.

Venturing further along the Swiss Riviera, we wandered along the narrow alleys of Vevey’s historic quarter which has the second biggest market square in Europe after Lisbon. The lakeside resort is also the international headquarters of Nestle. Visitors and locals alike saunter along the promenade and a statue of comedian Charlie Chaplin is a reminder that he and his family enjoyed many years in Vevey.

Perhaps his grandchildren enjoyed frolicking in the pools of the family-orientated lidos. Just a few minutes further along the lakefront is the famous fairytale Chateau which inspired Byron to pen the famous poem “The Prisoner of Chillon.” For the return trip, we took one of the white steamers back to Ouchy. The boat journey gave us an opportunity to relax and see the villages and vineyards from a different perspective.

The following day, it was time to leave the canton of Vaud and travel south towards Martigny in the canton of Valais. From here, we took the Mont Blanc Express to Chamonix in France. The train took us through spectacular steep-sided valleys and deep gorges. Above us towered ‘the Roofs of Europe’, three massive jagged peaks including Mont Blanc. Icy glaciers, their sides a dirty blue-grey, hung over the valley and pockets of mist swirled forebodingly over crevasses. By chance, we arrived on market day. Stalls were awash with cherries, honey, goat cheese, dried fruits, local wine and pickled hams. Purchasing seemed to be a fine art with much discourse between vendors and patrons. Sampling produce was not a problem and in fact, seemed to be encouraged. Every so often a vendor’s umbrella tipped over as rogue winds whipped along the valley floor.

In summer, Chamonix is popular with tourists, mountain bikers and hikers. The river running through the centre of town was the color of milk chocolate and cafes spilled onto the sunny sidewalks. Tables were surrounded by swarthy bronzed mountain climbers enjoying dishes of cheese fondue. Beside their chairs sat unwieldy back packs laden with ropes and ice axes. The atmosphere was friendly with visitors from many European countries enjoying the fresh mountain air and sunshine.

That night after being lulled to sleep by vociferous frogs at our hotel in Martigny, we set off the next morning to visit the new St. Bernard Dog Museum. The legendary animals have moved from the alpine Great St. Bernard Hospice to grassy enclosures within the museum. Inside the building, their history is told in text, paintings and carvings. These amazing animals are trained to find travelers who have lost their way in fog, storms and big snowfalls. The 20-minute film entitled “Francois the Pilgrim” depicting a mountain rescue is touching and would bring a tear to the driest eye. Afterwards we took a walk past the seven dogs who were cooling off in the shade after enjoying a mountain hike.

Near the museum a 5,000-seat amphitheatre is part of an archaeological walk that introduces visitors to Martigny’s Celtic and Roman heritage. The best  news is that the tour buses haven’t yet discovered this arena. Historians and art lovers will also want to visit the cultural Foundation Pierre Gianadda centre and the Gallo-Roman Museum which displays fascinating archaeological relics.

Intrigued by all this history, we decided to take a short bus trip from Martigny to Saillon which is one of the best-preserved mediaeval villages in Switzerland. The climb up to the top of this fortress-like hillock was worth every labored breath. Walking through the quiet village was like stepping back into another era and the sweeping views over the broad valley were stunning.

Now on the last leg of our journey, we headed to Leukerbad in the German-speaking part of the Upper Valais. We were in for a surprise. As soon as our bus began climbing up the mountain from the Rhone valley, we were enveloped by a snowstorm. Since it was the end of May, we were unprepared for such low temperatures but managed to save the day by layering our clothes. After our bus driver expertly negotiated several hairpin bends, we arrived in Leukerbad. At an altitude of 1,400 meters, is one of the highest and largest mountain spa resorts in Europe. Barely able to  read our map, we opted for a taxi which within minutes  deposited us on the doorstep of the Hotel Astoria. A warm welcome awaited us in this family-run hotel. Our spacious room had a kitchen and best of all, a covered balcony. From here I watched the storm abate and caught a glimpse of the barren face of the Daubenhorn, a steep massif slashed with cascading waterfalls. Later, I was to learn an ancient mule track leads from Leukerbad via the Gemmi Pass to the Bernese Oberland.

The Romans were among the first to appreciate the therapeutic properties of the 65 thermal springs which today feed into 22 pools. With the snow now falling gently as feathers, we ventured out to experience the family-oriented Burgerbad and sophisticated Lindner Alpentherme spa. Surrounded by Palladian windows, we spent the rest of the day luxuriating in the Alpentherme pools, fountains, jets and whirlpools. Spa and massage treatments can be booked in advance, the most unique being the Roman-Irish bath which is not for the fainthearted with hot and cold water treatments.

Later, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of raclette at our hotel. By then the warm Foehn, often dubbed the hairdryer wind, had melted most of the snow so we sauntered around the centre of the traffic-free village.

On our last morning, the sun shone from brilliant blue skies and the Daubenhorn looked almost naked now that its cloudy petticoats had dispersed. I pondered wistfully on Mark Twain’s description of this massif: “It comes down out of the clouds in a succession of rounded, colossal, terrace-like projections, - a stairway for the gods; at its head spring several lofty storm-scarred towers, one above another, with faint films of vapor curling always about them like spectral banners.”

Contacts:
Switzerland Tourism: http://www.MySwitzerland.com
Lausanne Tourism: http://www.lausanne-tourisme.ch
The Olympic Museum: http://www.olympic.org
Saint Bernard Museum: http://www.museesaintbernard.ch
Pierre Gianadda Foundation: http://www.gianadda.ch
Martigny Tourism: http://www.martigny.com
Burgerbad Thermal Centre: http://www.burgerbad.ch
Leukerbad Tourism: http://www.info@leukerbad.ch
Mont Blanc Express: http://www.tmrsa.ch
Swiss Rail: http://www.sbb.ch/en

Where we stayed:
Lausanne:  Best Western Hotel Mirabeau:  http://www.mirabeau.ch
Leukerbad: Hotel Astoria: http://www.astoria-leukerbad.ch

Images by Hamish M. Jackson
email: caroline@crestlynn.com
Web: http://www.crestlynn.com