The Last Shangri-La
By Don Alney
 Stepping out of the Druk
Airways aircraft, I draw a deep breath: Clean, cool, crisp. I marvel at the
atmosphere of serenity, and the conspicuous absence of jostling, noisy crowds. I
wonder whether I have stepped through a time warp, far removed from the hurly
burly of the 21st century, and into some never-never land from faraway and long
ago. I’ve reached Thimpu, Bhutan’s only entry point, by air.
 Till the 16th century Bhutan was a
crazy-quilt of small, squabbling principalities. Thereafter these were
integrated under the leadership of Bhutan’s first spiritual and temporal ruler,
Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. To fortify the country against Tibetan attacks,
he constructed a chain of impregnable dzongs (fortresses). Later, these
incorporated the secular with the mystical, and became monastic fortresses and
the focus of Bhutanese spiritual and temporal life. Many of these ancient dzongs
are still extant.
 Paro is a small town
and the majority of its population resides in the picturesque valley that
encircles the town in a loose, comfortable embrace.  The Paro Dzong
was built in 1646 and its structural and aesthetic design arouses wonder in
visitors, and religious awe in its devotees. Looming above the dzong is the
imposing Ta Dzong, a watchtower (common in older dzongs), housing Bhutan’s
National Museum.
 I am in time for the
spectacularly colourful Paro Tshechu, the Buddhist Spring Festival. Its crowded
with the local populace in colourful garments, with a fair sprinkling of foreign
tourists. The milling throngs are here to witness the incredibly vibrant masked
dances performed by the monks of Paro Dzong. The
Bhutanese believe that over a millennium ago Guru Rinpoche a.k.a. Padmasambava
arrived in the Paro valley, and initiated the Bhutanese strain of Mahavana
Buddhism. His three month’s meditation in a cave high on a hill, later became
the site for erecting the extraordinary monastery named Taktsang Lhakang or the
Tiger's Nest, an allusion to the popular legend that Padmasambhava flew here
from Tibet on the back of a Tigress. The monastery clings
precariously to a granite cliff 3000 feet above the valley. At my guide’s
suggestion, I opt for the 3 hour trek, rather than the pony ride. While the way
is narrow, steep and demanding, its also very rewarding. Reaching the top, I get
a well-earned rest at a small cafeteria, offering a remarkable close-up of the
monastery, and a breathtaking view of the Paro valley.
  At an altitude of 7710 feet, Thimphu the
Bhutanese capital is a fascinating little city, situated in the valley of the
Wangchu River. Over the years, its skyline has undergone little change, as it is
mandatory for all building construction in Bhutan to follow zoning regulations.
The closely supervised real estate development ensures
conformity in height and strict adherence to traditional architectural design
and format. A stroll down Thimphu’s main street is a rare
pleasure, as few people and even fewer automobiles, are evident on the road.
However, a peep inside shops and commercial establishments reveals the city’s
happy, gentle people.
 Thimphu’s Simtokha
Dzong is Bhutan’s oldest fortress. However, in its new avatar its used as the
School for Buddhist Studies. Tashichho Dzong, the country’s most regal edifice
houses the National Assembly, and is the summer residence of Thimphu’s revered
community of monks. Despite its diminutive size, Thimphu
possesses a plenitude of fine restaurants, shops with shelves loaded with
exquisite jewellery, superbly handcrafted textiles,
unique wood-carvings, and a plethora of domestic goods.
 Other places of interest
in Thimphu include its school of traditional painting where the ancient art of
thangka painting is taught, and the National Memorial Chorten built in memory of
the Third King of Bhutan. The Folk Heritage Museum, the
Textile Museum, and the National Library are also worth a visit. For those
interested, there is a bracing trek to Cheri Monastery, and then on to Tango
Monastery, at an elevation of approximately 8,500 feet. The
two hours walk through beautiful forestland offers superb scenic vistas and bird
watching.
 Four days later, I head eastwards for
Punakha, the former winter capital. The roads are in
reasonable shape, and starting early, I speed towards Dochu La at 10,007 feet,
(La means a mountain pass). It’s a 70 minutes drive from the capital, and I
reach the pass before atmospheric haze obscures the spectacular, crystal clear
views of the Bhutanese Himalayas. From here, the road winds down to the fertile,
agrarian valley of Punakha. Due to its lower altitude and
gentler climate, Punakha Dzong is the winter home of the central monk body.
Established in 1637 it is perhaps the most picturesque dzong in the
country. For strategic reasons it was constructed at the
confluence of the Phochu (male) and Mochu (female) rivers. Since its inception,
it has been faced misfortunes: ravaged by fires on four occasions, devastated by
an earthquake in 1897 and traumatized by floods from northern glaciers. However,
recently the dzong was restored to its former splendour, and viewed by late
evening sunlight, its beauty reflected in the placid waters of the Phochu, made
my visit to Punakha, memorable.
 A couple of hours' drive from Wangdue
takes me to Phobjika valley, in central Bhutan. A 45 minutes detour from the
highway brings me to the elegant Gangtey Gompa, a 17th century monastery, and
the summer retreat of large numbers of monks.
 Passing through dense forests of
oak and rhododendrons, I arrive at Gangtey village, with its monastery. Closeby is the Phobjikha Valley, the winter habitat of the rare
black-necked cranes, which migrate to these swamplands from the high reaches of
the Tibetan plateau. It’s a bird watchers’ and ornithologists’ paradise.
 Situated in the centre of Bhutan,
Trongsa offers a welcome rest to eastward bound travelers. The approach Trongsa
offers spectacular views of the town: the Trongsa Dzong dominates the horizon,
and dwarfs the surrounding buildings. Built high on the
sloping contours of a steep ridge, it’s the longest dzong in Bhutan, and has
been the ancestral home of the last four Kings. It is a labyrinth of temple
corridors and offices from where the local community is administered.
 My sojourn ends in Bumthang, a district
rooted in spirituality and religious legends. Its scenic grandeur casts a spell
of enchantment on all visitors. Its four high valleys are covered in forests
that embrace monasteries, chortens, traditional stone houses, markets and dzongs.
Most of the significant religious/historical events of Bhutan's past, occurred
here, and it is Bhutan’s geographical centre as well as its spiritual heart.
The valley is the country’s most sacred location, hallowed
1,200 years ago by the visits of Bhutan’s patron saint, Guru Rinpoche, and the
ancestors of the current dynasty that has ruled the kingdom for almost a
century. Even by Bhutan’s remarkable levels of scenic loveliness, Bumthang is
extraordinarily beautiful.
 Along the eastern edge
of the valley stands the incredibly graceful complex of three temples known as Kurje Lhakhang. The one on the right was built in 1652 against a rock-face where
Guru Padmasambhava is said to have meditated, eight centuries earlier. The
middle temple, built over a cave containing a rock said to bear the imprint of
the Guru’s body, is the most venerated. The temple on the left was built in the
1990s by Ashi Kesang, the Queen Mother.
 Bumthang’s Jakar
Dzong, constructed in 1549, is surrounded with an impressive wall, a mile in
circumference, and its central tower soars 150 feet into the air. Originally a
monastery, today it is the administrative centre for the Bumthang valley, and
also houses the regional monastic body.
 Flying home, my
admiration for this tiny nation is unbounded. Its remarkable how Bhutan is
tackling the “development game” by rules it has devised to suit its national
interests. These safeguard its incredibly beautiful environment (where at least
60% of the country is pledged to remain forested, forever). While inexorably
inching closer to these goals, Bhutan is also moving nearer to democratic
governance. The world watches anxiously as Bhutan’s king and his government
strive to preserve their cultural traditions, and meld these with select
elements of imported modernity, to enrich their people. We hope that this
transition, complex and fraught with problems, will be successful and leads to
prosperity and empowerment. Bhutan’s natural beauty, its architectural grandeur,
the gentle warmth of its populace, their easy laughter, and deep religiosity,
make them my favourite people. For inveterate travellers like me, Bhutan is
indeed the last Shangri-La.
© DON ALNEY
14-D, Bondel Road,
Kolkata – 700 019.
Tel +33-22802305
Cellphone +9830871234
Website
http://www.donalney.com
E-mail
d@vsnl.com
All photographs by Don Alney
FACTFILE
Visitors to Bhutan are required to book
through a registered tour operator in Bhutan. This can be done directly or
through a travel agent abroad. The minimum daily tariff is regulated and fixed
by the Royal Government of Bhutan. During the high season (March, April, May,
September, October, November) the tariff is US$ 200 per person per night. In the
low season (June, July, August, December, January, February) the tariff is US$
165 per person per night. This rate includes all accommodation costs, all meals,
transport, services of licensed guides and porters and cultural programmes where
and when available. Foreign travel agent’s commission is also covered by this
daily charge. There are surcharges on individuals and groups of less than three
people. There are also discounts available for young students and children.
Tourism is limited and monitored in
Bhutan, to protect, preserve, and nurture its traditional culture, from
over-exposure to the less savory influences that this can bring about. More
importantly, the tourism industry in Bhutan is founded on the principle of
sustainability, which means that tourism must be environmentally and
ecologically friendly, socially and culturally acceptable, and also economically
viable. For these reasons, it is carefully monitored and the number of tourists
visiting Bhutan is kept to an environmentally manageable level.
The Bhutanese are a highly religious
people and therefore it is important for tourists to show respect and
understanding for local customs and way of life, especially while visiting
places of religious significance. |
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