Great French wine values
By Darryl Beeson
Even with the less than great exchange rate, there are some
great French wine finds still available, if you do the research.
Saint-Hilaire, Blanquette de Limoux, Blanc de Blancs Extra Dry 2003
Price $11
Rating 89
The Benedictine monks of Abbey of Saint Hilaire were already producing
Blanquette de Limoux in 1544, more than 100 years before the first Champagne. It
is France's oldest sparkling wine and likely the oldest sparkling wine in the
world. It is light and fruity with a touch of honey on the crisp finish. Imagine
aromas of brioche and tart green apples. There is nice floral on the nose.
Lucien Albrecht, Cremant d'Alsace Brut Rosé, N.V.
Price $20
Rating 93
Says Master of Wine Sheri Sauter Morano, "If you enjoy dry roses or
lighter-bodied reds during warmer weather, then this is a wine you should try.
Made from 100% Pinot Noir from the region of Alsace, this dry sparkler offers a
change of pace." Notice the crisp strawberry and bright raspberry notes. This
wine refreshes and works with a myriad of food selections. Pair this bubbly with
grilled seafood, barbeque, maybe curry or even Tex-Mex.
Pommery, Pink POP Rosé, Champagne N.V.
Price $12 (187ml)
Rating 94
The exact blend is 30% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier and 40% Pinot Noir. The
color is a pretty in pink. The nose offers currant and pomegranate. Pair this
fun-formatted true-Champagne with delicate fresh-fruit desserts, spicy Thai, or
even richly reduced curries. Then again, sip it with a straw as an all-time
aperitif.
J. J. Vincent Bourgogne Chardonnay, 2005
Price $18
Rating 90
This white is fresh and cleanly made, according to Master of Wine Sheri Sauter
Morano, "There are notes of vanilla, apple and quince." The oak is subtle, if
minimal. Mineral notes are in this white from near Macon. Try this moderately
crisp, nicely-complex white wine with pasta primavera, grilled shrimp, Asian
scallops, or, perhaps, chicken breasts in an apricot glaze.
Domaine Fournier, Sancere 2005
Price $20
Rating 95
Domaine Fournier is one of the most important estates in the Sancerre region.
The Sancerre vineyards include the important sites in the villages of Verdigny,
Bue and Maimbray, resulting in very complex wines. This white leads with lively
citrus, maybe like grapefruit or lemon. Pair this crisp white with goat cheese
or maybe pasta in a rich, cream sauce.
Domaine de la Fruitiere "Muscadet Petit M" Loire 2005
Price $12
Rating 90
Think crisp green apple nuances with a big squeeze of lemon juice. Mineral notes
are within. This vibrant white demands oysters on the half shell, mussels in a
luscious broth, sushi or shrimp in an olive oil, garlic and pasta combination.
Grilled fish would work as well. Though not certified as organic, Domaine de la
Fruitiere uses no chemicals in the vineyards. More information is at
www.usawineimports.com.
Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon Blanc, Gascony 2006
Price $12
Rating 93
A characteristic nose on intense and fine floral notes is followed by some
mineral nuances. The producers suggest that this refreshing white wine be
consumed at the beginning of meal with fish and seafood, or mabye lighter meat
such as chicken or veal. The wine is full of fruit and refreshing on its own or
with food. Robert Parker called Yves "one of the most talented winemakers" of
southern France.
Domaine du Tariquet was the first property to produce crisp and refreshing white
wines in southwestern France's Armagnac region. As the demand for the family
estate's Armagnacs dwindled in the 1970s, Yves Grassa started experimenting with
wines made from Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The results were astounding and
many of his neighbors have followed him into wine production. The 2006 Sauvignon
comes from vines planted in the beautiful, sandy, south-facing slopes of Gascony.
Colombelle Vin de pays des Côtes de Gascogne 2006
Price $8
Rating 89
This refreshing white wine is a blend of 70% Colombard, 20% Ugni Blanc and 10%
Listran. There are notes of grapefruit, pineapple and herbacious grass. There
are hints of peach and mango. Columbard was first used to make Cognac although
not as popular for that purpose as Ugni Blanc and Baco Blanc. The Colombard has
a high natual acidity making it a good choice for blends. The Colombard was the
most widely planted grape in California until the early 1990s where it was often
used as a base for jug wines. If given the proper treatment Colombard can
produce crisp whites with citrus fruits and a pleasant minerality.
"Les Jamelles" Vin de pays d'Oc, Viognier, Languedoc 2006
Price $10
Rating 89
The nose offers classic notes of the Viognier grape, that being aromas of peach,
apricot and nice floral. There are nuances of lavender, acacia and other floral.
There are aftertastes of honey and herbaciousness. This wine makes a perfect
apertif for delicate seafood salad with fresh dill, more bitter vegetables such
as asparagus, or vegetarian quiche.
Chateau d'Aqueria, Tavel Rosé 2006
Price $16
Rating 93
The exact blend is 50% Grenache, 20% Clairette, 15% Cinsault, 10% Mourvedre and
5% Bourboulenc. Most agree that Chateau d'Aqueria is the quintessential Tavel.
There are floral notes in the nose. the sip reveals hints of raspberry and notes
of pepper. The finish is long and dry. Match this wine classic with arugula
salad, fresh goat cheese, grilled lamb or pork tenderloin from the grill. Tavel
is a right bank appellation of the southern Rhone for dry rose wines only. The
appellation enforces a maximum alcoholic strength of 13.5%. Chilling is
essential as the wine is always a bone-dry beverage.
---
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine,
food and destination finds. He teaches professional wine knowledge and technique
for
www.internationalsommelier.com. He is the American editor for
www.wineontheweb.com. |
|