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CANADA'S BARGAIN SEASON BECKONS...

BUT FEW HEED THE CALL

by Deborah Menger

There's no stampede to Calgary during wintertime, which puzzles the natives.

Off season is October to May, which means reduced rates on everything, including air fare from Dallas or Houston. Add friendly Canadians, luxurious accommodations, interesting shopping, outstanding food, unique outdoor adventures, unparalleled scenery, superb snow and uncrowded slopes and you have an economically and aesthetically top-of-the-line vacation.

Banff and Lake Louise were the destinations my husband, Richard, and I chose for our maiden foray into the Canadian Rockies. These two tiny towns are situated in Banff National Park, about a two-hour drive from Calgary along the Trans-Canadian Highway that is posted with "Watch for Elk" signs.

Stopping at the park toll booth to pay our fare ($10 a night), we received a map of the 2,500-acre area, visitors' guide and a cheery "Good skiing!"

After a few wrong turns on Banff's main street, we located Buffalo Mountain Lodge atop Tunnel Mountain Road. Our room was toasty from the heated slate floors to the peaked, pine-pegged ceiling. We opened the French doors to compensate for starting a major blaze in the rock fireplace.

Then we reconnoitered the town. A trio of elk on a graze into civilization seemed to be waiting patiently for the library to open. Warning: Do not attempt to pet Canadian critters. Even in town, the elk, bears, wolves, moose, big- horn sheep and cougars remain aloof and wild.

Along Banff Avenue, gift shops alternate with franchise and international-cuisine restaurants. The historic Hudson's Bay Co. offers its famous striped wool blankets plus modern fleece ski wear. Sgt. Preston's, which is owned by a retired Royal Canadian Mounted Policeman, has a selection of Mountie memorabilia, toy soldiers and regulation touristabilia.

For the gourmet-challenged, discreet signs identify McDonald's and the Hard Rock Cafe. Coyotes Deli and Grill serves blueberry pancakes topped with Canadian maple syrup and Santa-Fe-style huevos rancheros with outstanding blue cornbread. Giorgio's Trattoria offers gamberi all'aglio (shrimp in garlic and virgin olive oil) followed by an exceptional creme brulee. Dinner at the lodge showcases Canadian cuisine (caribou and buffalo) and top wines, including a peculiar "ice" wine made from frozen grapes.

Following one of these gargantuan meals, we took a moonlight sleigh ride on the frozen Bow River behind two placid Belgian horses. Despite layers of wool blankets, we almost achieved ice-statue status.

"You can't be cold. There's a Chinook blowing. Last year it was 20 below," said our driver, Rob.

This comment was echoed by Peter, our guide on the Johnson Canyon ice walk. After strapping crampons to our boots, we hiked four miles uphill and down to pat frozen stalactites and waterfalls and observe two red-suited idiots rappelling 100 feet of sparkling ice.

Skiing at Norquay and Sunshine Village was perfection: no ice, no people herds, miniscule lift lines, polite snowboarders, warm sun and groomed runs. While Richard skied the black diamond trails with former World Cup skier Jack Potman, I stayed with my instructor, Sean, on the bunny slopes, and tried not to ski into the fearless toddlers schussing past us.

A trip to the Upper Hot Springs Spa with its attendant steam room, aromatherapy treatment and deep- muscle massage capped off this energetic day.

Too relaxed to drive, we nevertheless made the snowy one-hour trip at dusk to Lake Louise. (Winter in Canada keeps working-person hours: Daylight is from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.) Not only did we have reservations for the first dinner seating at the elegant Post Hotel, but we were ravenous.

The hotel's valet offered to plug in our car to keep the oil from freezing overnight. He then unloaded our piles of luggage (ski gear and over packing take up space) and escorted us to our suite. After appreciative but cursory glances at the Jacuzzi, fireplace and twin terraces, we went down to dine. A superb meal of Canadian beef was accompanied by a bottle of Merlot handpicked by George Schwarz, co-owner with his brother, Andre, of the Relais & Chateaux historic inn.

George's pride and joy is his cellar of 12,000 bottles; Andre, who does not smoke, is in charge of the hotel's stock of Cuban cigars.

Next day's skiing was at Lake Louise, Canada's largest ski area. The Nastar finals for the men's downhill concluded shortly after we arrived, which meant that Richard, in the company of two members of the Canadian Olympic team, could ski the swift, icy course. Ski whiz Dave Gilbert and I stuck to the lower levels with uniformed members of a Japanese Ski Club.

Following lunch in Whiskeyjack Lodge, the resort's new clubhouse, Richard and I purchased ski pins. (Serious skiers get pins wherever they ski and pepper their hats with them.) We returned to the hotel for high tea to replace the calories I burned by falling off the ski lift. Books from the hotel's library provided entertainment while I nursed my bruises and Richard packed.

The next day's drive back to Calgary allowed us time to muse on why we were among the few savvy Americans stampeding to Canada in the off-season.

Y'all come, too.

Contact information http://www.skilakelouise.com

-Updated 12-15-00-

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