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By Madelyn Miller

The last time my husband and I visited Mexico, upon return, he went directly to an oxygen tent in the hospital.  All he remembered about that trip was his souvenir case of tourista.  I came back minus my favorite pair of Dr. Scholl's, stolen by a beach vendor.  So it took about 15 years and lots of friends raving about Cancun to convince us to try Mexico again.

 And thank goodness we did.  Cancun has great weather, champagne-colored sand and clear turquoise waters.  For us, it was the perfect blend of a relaxing beach vacation sprinkled with sophisticated restaurants, great shopping and endless opportunities for side trips if you want to do more than veg out on the beach.

Beach Bum

I confess to being mostly a beach bum this trip.  But what a beach!  We stayed at the Fiesta Americana Coral Beach Cancun which is located at the point of the long skinny finger of Cancun, looking over the Caribbean.  The powdery white sand beach front is protected from high waves and underwater currents by a large coral reef, so the tranquil Caribbean water is ideal for all water sports.  But most of my exercise was walking from the beach to relax in the 660-foot serpentine pool and sip a cool tropical drink at one of the in-pool bars.

 Evenings, we ate at world-class restaurants.  Everyone recommended "Bogart's", a Moroccan restaurant inspired by the movie "Casablanca".  The pristine white interior is emphasized by stage lighting, including a dramatic purple cast to a wading pool.  Romantic, with the requisite piano music in the background, the food is expensive but worth the splurge.  I ordered a lobster prepared three ways ($32.00) which was presented thermador, grilled and stuffed.

Native Tips

Our best meal was a La Joya in the Fiesta America Coral Beach.  When we told our driver on the way from the airport where we were staying, he told us we had to eat in their new restaurant.  He was right about that and all the other advice he gave us.  Here were his other comments:

1. It's okay to drink the water.  Everything is purified now.

2. Cancun is totally safe -- you don't have to worry about crime.

3. The only annoying thing about Cancun is all the time-share people soliciting you.  They are everywhere -- the beach, the restaurants, streets, outside hotels.  And they are more persistent and determined than the street beggars I remembered from earlier trips.

Cancun is definitely paradise for the water sports fan.  The shallows are perfect for windsurfing, canoeing and snorkeling.

You can follow up a morning on the beach with an afternoon of shopping in one of Cancun's air-conditioned malls, and then enjoy abundant nightlife.  What's best about Cancun is there is something for everyone.

THINGS TO DO WHILE IN CANCUN

1. ISLA MUJERES - The Island of Women is just a half-hour boat ride north of Cancun's beach.  A tiny, laid-back island with exceptional beaches and snorkeling, dazzling reefs plus a curio market.  It got its name in 1517 when Spanish explorer Francisco Hernandez de Cordobo discovered a sparsely populated island with mysterious stone statuettes of semi-clothed women.

2. Fitness enthusiasts will love the red brick path that runs from the Fiesta Americana Hotel to Downtown Cancun -- it was made with joggers, roller bladers and power walkers in mind.  You can rent Roller blades at Plaza Quetzal.  It's also fun to rent a bike or scooter to get acquainted with Cancun.

3. TULUM - Perched atop the craggy cliffs of the Quintana Roo coast, this last outpost of the Mayan civilization commands an absolutely breath-taking view.  The walled fortress of Tulum was probably settled when Mayan civilization began to decline.

4. XCARET - An eco-archaeological park where you can float on the surface of an underground river, browse through a botanical garden, visit a wild bird breeding aviary.  You can share time with friendly dolphins or horseback ride along the ocean front.

5. SHOPPING - The Hotel Zone is dotted with ultra-modern malls.  These air-conditioned havens from the Cancun heat are filled with everything from exclusive boutiques and jewelers to art and craft galleries and t-shirt stores.  Best bets -- designer label items and perfumes.  Friends gave me orders for the skin cream Retin-A which is available without prescription for about 1/4 what it costs in the U.S.

6. CHICHEN ITZA - located in the interior of the Yucatan Peninsula -- it is one of Mexico's most popular archaeological sites because of the striking and well-preserved ruins.  Evidence of early Mayan achievements can be seen in the architectural structures and carvings throughout the complex.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

Fiesta Americana Hotels: 1-800-FIESTA
http://www.fiestaamericana.com

Mexican Tourism: 800-44-MEXICO

GUIDEBOOKS

LONELY PLANET MEXICO
Well organized, with great pictures and maps. Terrific section on shopping
www.lonelyplanet.com

Michelin Tourist Guide to Mexico, Guatemala and Belize

EAT SMART IN MEXICO: A Travel Guide for Food Lovers
By Joan & David Peterson

LIVE BETTER SOUTH OF THE BORDER
By Mexico Mike Nelson
Fulcrum Publishing
www.fulcrum-books.com

ON MEXICAN TIME
By Tony Cohan
An American writer and his wife find a new home—and a new lease on life—in the charming sixteenth-century hill town of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Cancun at night and Tulum photos by Dave Shultz
-Updated 2-11-02-
 

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