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by Martha Hollis

Rolling in as gentle as the morning fog, the day begins anew in Carmel-by-the-Sea, California.  Mornings in this flower-filled, charming town are a celebration with unlimited possibilities. The rewards are so great that even the sleepy-heads jump out of bed.

The oldest restaurant in town is The Village Corner. Frittatas and unique egg-combination skillets are their specialty. Outdoors the garden blooms with flowers and has a fireplace to stave off any chilly breezes. Capacious mugs hold perfectly brewed, gourmet coffee. Freshly squeezed orange juice with or without champagne is a vibrant wake-up and can be ordered by the full pitcher. We had heard so much about wheat germ pancakes that we ordered them “for the table,” serving like hors d’oeuvres. Indoors, the corner booth is reserved for family and friends, but after one visit, you’ll be one of the friends.

The Lodge at Pebble Beach’s new Stillwater Bar & Grill with gleaming hardwood floors and uncluttered lines permits unending views of  Stillwater Cove, Carmel Bay, Point Lobos, and the eighteenth green at Pebble Beach Golf Links. With a confirmed reservations, one need not pay the $7.50 fee for the 17-mile drive.

Unable to choose between the inventive eggs Benedict on crab cakes or on artichoke bottoms, I ordered one of each. As a crab fanatic, I wish that I had both on crab as this was pure Dungenese crab with a touch of hot pepper—sublime. The new dining room, one of five restaurants under the control of executive chef  Beat Giger, replaced the very formal Cypress Room. The icy seafood counter is the art space for the beautifully, fresh display set up immediately before lunch—another testament to the art roots of the region. A whimsical reminder of the seafaring theme is the huge painting of a fish at the end of the room.

At Katy’s you had best bring your trencherman’s appetites as the twelve choices of eggs Benedict all include three eggs dressed up in splendor. Omelets have the ingredients mixed in, while French toasts are big and loaf-like. It is a bustling kind of place, not one for quietly reading a paper and writing poetry. Don’t miss the brown bottled hot sauce here, a definite wakeup hit for the perfectly chunked breakfast potatoes.

For that sleeping-in morning, oh so luxurious when the morning fog hugs the shore, we loved the picnic basket supplied by our hosts, The Dolphin Inn. Without any disturbance whatsoever, it is left at 8:00 a.m. outside the door. While it is full of surprises it always includes juice, fresh fruit, muffins or croissants and cereal. Along with the daily paper, that innkeepers Lorraine and Bob Luce tuck in, is a list of special events for the day. With the in-room coffee service, brew your own and enjoy the quiet.

One morning we wandered with the walking tour of the one-square mile town. Like sleuths under the wing of director Gale Wrausmann of Carmel Walks, we discovered the secret passageways, theaters and their legends, quaint cottage and architectural styles, art galleries, shops, inns, gardens and restaurants. Gale brimmed with energy and kept us moving and entranced with stories of Carmel and her colorful peoples. And flowers bloomed in abundance everywhere, especially at the annual Home and Garden show held in May at Quail Lodge.

Many aspects of golf are well-appreciated especially early in the day—the physical course’s beauty, a professional golfing and service staff, and the challenge of the game itself. The courses of Fort Ord, Quail Lodge and Carmel Valley Ranch epitomize all that is appealing about golf. The visual gratification of each course enticed nongolfers to come along for the ride. Even the trees and flags at Fort Ord’s Black Stallion and Bayonet courses point you in the right direction.

Another morning we ventured by car three miles down the coast to Point Lobos State Reserve to witness the sea lions frolicking in the cool, green, clear pools. Otters are just as popular here, but we sited none that day. Adventurers can climb down the sharp, high cliffs via steep stairs. On the white sand several children played in the surf showing up the cold-resistant adults. At another site we marveled at the teeming morning life in the tide-pools.

Images by Anthony Scaggs

For further information contact:
Carmel-by-the-Sea,  Carmel Business Association, 831.624.2522
Dolphin Inn, San Carlos at 4th, 831.624.5356, 800.433.4732
The Village Corner, Delores and Sixth, 831.624.3588
Stillwater Bar & Grill, Seventeen Mile Drive, The Lodge at Pebble Beach, 831.625.8524
Katy’s Place, Mission St., between 5th and 6th, 831.624.0199
Carmel Walks, 831.642.2700
Pt. Lobos State Reserve, 831 624.4909
Golf Club at Quail Lodge,  831.624.2770
Fort Ord Golf Courses, 831.899.2351
Carmel Valley Ranch Resort, Golf  831.626.2510
 
carmel@mbay.net
http://www.carmelcalifornia.org

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