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BRAZIL’S
UP AND COMING CEARA STATE
by Joyce Dalton
Ever
wonder why cashews are so expensive? One peek at cashew fruit and the answer is
clear. With the shape and size of an orange pepper, the fruit nourishes one,
and only one, shell-encased nut perched on its stem. This bit of tasty trivia
was picked up on a recent trip to Brazil’s northeastern Ceara state where, by
the way, a huge bag of cashews can be had for the equivalent of $3.00. With
a booming economy, the government of Ceara has initiated a major program to
attract foreign visitors. Its beaches are already big winners with Brazilian
tourists whose arrivals have grown by 70% in the last four years. Fortaleza,
the state’s capital and major city, is busily laying the groundwork to become a
major gateway to South America’s largest country. In 1998, a new international
airport began operation; 19 additional hotels are expected to open by 2002; a
new cruise ship terminal, capable of welcoming the most mega of mega ships
should be ready by the year 2003, and the Atlantica 2000 project, a $100
million complex of hotels, shops, theaters and museums, also will be in place.
And let’s not forget the sparkling new cultural center with a museum of Ceara
culture, a planetarium, theaters and a row of picturesque pastel-hued
restaurants offering indoor and outdoor dining. The
March 1999 issue of Conde Nast Traveler touted Fortaleza as “one of the
millennium’s hottest new destinations,” while the New York Times claimed the
city has the “liveliest Monday night on the planet.” The Monday bit refers to the locals’ love of partying,
manifesting itself in a different theme, complete with food, music and “in”
location, for each night of the week. As
for typical sight-seeing, choices, if not overly numerous, are enjoyable.
Brazil’s fifth largest city is pleasant, clean and safe, the latter being no
small factor given the bad press Rio received in years past.
Fortaleza’s
old section is good for a ramble. Pedestrian-only cobble streets radiate from
Praca de Ferreira, the main square. There are some impressive turn of the
century buildings with the requisite moldings, an 18th century fortress and
intriguing old-world pharmacies and bakeries.
Yet
another crafts center is housed in an 1824 Fortaleza jail (there’s a modest but
interesting museum upstairs), while the more famous evening market (4:00 to
11:00 pm) spreads along the beach with some 150 vendors’ stalls offering
crafts, T-shirts, bags of cashews, cassette tapes and you-name-it. Vendors are
polite, friendly and non-aggressive. A clock rises above the area, counting
down the days till April 22, 2000, which will mark Brazil’s 500th anniversary
of discovery by the Portuguese.
We’re
talking Brazil, so of course, opportunities to hear, or dance to, samba and
other Latin rhythms abound. Inquire at hotels or tourist offices for spots
geared to your tastes (trendy and loud or somewhat more sedate).
Several attractive pousadas tempt overnight
stays. Pousada Lua Estrela (luastar@fortalnet.com.br
), Tranquilandia Village
(tranquilandia@secrel.com.br ) or Pousada do Toby (pousadatoby@secret.com.br
)
should please all but five-star-only travelers. Prices average $35 to $45 per
room including breakfast.
With
one exception, Pousada Ibirapuera, the pousadas are less inviting than those at
Canoa. Ibirapuera’s eight rooms are nicely decorated, featuring ceiling fans
and good cross ventilation. Prices range from $25 to $35 depending on season.
Fax: (011) 55-88-961-5544. Ceara’s
beaches and capital (Fortaleza) are destinations in their own right or ideal as
add-ons to such favorites as Rio, Sao Paulo and the Amazon. Varig recently
inaugurated non-stop service from Miami (Tuesdays) to Fortaleza and has
frequent flights between Fortaleza and other Brazilian destinations including
Rio, Sao Paulo, Salvador de Bahia and Manaus. Various domestic air passes are available.
Phone: (800) 468-2744. For
further information and brochures, contact the Ceara Tourist Center in Naples,
Florida at: (877) 412-3272 or e-mail at info@cearavirtual.com. Web:
www.cearavirtual.com Images
by Joyce Dalton -Updated 3-26-00- |
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TM
My
personal favorite is the strangely wonderful Jose de Alencar Theater which is
really two buildings connected by an elevated walkway. Built of Scottish
wrought iron, its relatively new all-glass front features colored glass on the
upper portion. Originally built in 1910, the theater was restored in 1991.
Inside, the rows of wood and woven cane chairs seem just right for its tropical
ambience. A frieze above the stage, frescoed ceiling and ornate wrought iron
balcony railings complete the decor. Tours are given daily. 
To
sample regional handicrafts, visit the Ceart cooperative for a display of
wicker furniture, macramé hammocks, straw baskets, ceramics, hand-painted
greeting cards, embroidery and needlepoint, lace, candles incorporating fruit
or shells and the most popular souvenir --- bottles of all sizes filled with
colored sand designs depicting villages, the sea, waving palms, even one’s
name.
Another
good stop for lace and embroidery is Centro da Rendeira near the town of
Prainha. Artisans demonstrate turning white thread into intricate patterns that
we call lace, using a huge pillow stuffed with dried banana leaves and up to
200 bobbins made of thin pieces of wood, weighted by large seeds. 
If
not literally around every corner, good restaurants are never far away. While
seafood dishes dominate most menus, other choices are readily available. Among
the places I tried and liked: La Boheme located in the Iracema Beach district,
the main venue for Monday night parties; Barraca Tropicalia at Futuro Beach, a
vast space where Thursday is clam night complete with wooden boards and mallets
for cracking the critters; Vento em Popa, an attractive eatery near the new
Cultural Center, and Tudo em Cima in the Mirante do Mucuripe district situated
in hills overlooking the city. The luncheon buffet at the Caesar Park Hotel is
also worthy of mention, as are the 50 flavors of ice cream at one of
Fortaleza’s Sorveteria counters.
With
an average of 300 sunny days per year, it’s not surprising that beach life is
THE life, both for visitors and locals. Although Fortaleza boasts its own long
stretch of sand, why not include a few beach days out of the city? Only 12
miles west of Fortaleza, Cumbuco Beach is known for crystal-clear waters, dunes
ranging from 40 to 80 feet in height, lagoons (one surrounded by tropical
forest), sand-surfing and windsurfing
Canoa
Quebrada, meaning “broken canoe,” is a former fishing village discovered by
French doctors and Italian hippies in the 1970s. Today, it’s popular with
swimmers, sun-bathers, water sports enthusiasts and those who like to show off
their bikinis. Exhilarating dune buggy rides can be taken for about $5.00 per
person (based on four people); the highlight is an assent of the most towering
dunes, a brief perch on the peak, then a headlong dive downwards. Another
quirky sport is zipping down a sandy hill on a “sand board,” a variation of the
skateboard.
Options
for reaching Canoa, situated 96 miles south of Fortaleza, include helicopter
(($980 for the day for four people); prop plane to Aracati, continuing on to
Canoa by dune buggy, or a two hour road trip.
Ceara’s
current “in” beach is Jericoacoara, which involves a seven-hour road trip,
$2,000 helicopter fare (again, for the day and for a maximum of four people) or
$120 prop plane plus 4 x 4 journey. The approach by air offers views of dunes
and impressive rock formations. Activities are similar to those at Canoa.