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CRUISING THE INSIDE PASSAGEGetting Up Close and Personal With Southeast Alaska On a Small ShipBy Barbara Gibbs Ostmann"Good morning," came the wake-up call over the intercom. "We're at Grand Pacific Glacier. It's 42 degrees and sunny." Stepping out the cabin door onto the deck, we came to an abrupt halt. There, so close it seemed we could reach out and touch it, was the shimmery blue face of the glacier, shining in the bright sun of a cloudless cornflower-blue sky. As we gaped in awe, there was a mighty cracking sound, like a sonic boom, and suddenly a huge chunk of the glacier broke free and crashed into the water, sending a wave that rippled its way to the ship, gently rocking it. Welcome to Glacier Bay, Alaska.
At Johns Hopkins glacier, which is called the cathedral of Glacier Bay, the natural grandeur was almost beyond comprehension. As Laura Cheek, National Park Service ranger, explained, "We're on an incredible scale here. There is no sense of perspective because there is nothing to compare the size to." The glacier looked so close -- yet the face of the glacier was 250 feet high and a mile wide. When chunks of ice calved, or broke off, those chunks were actually the equivalent of a two- or three-story building. "In a way," Cheek said, "we've entered the Ice Age. The land here was only recently exposed to air, water and sun. We can see the footprints of the glacier on the rocks -- the rounded tops, sculpted lower elevations and U-shaped valleys. It's almost a textbook lesson in geology." We sailed past the old cabin that once housed Joe and Muz Iboc, gold miners who spent summers here in the '30s and '40s. "The most gold they ever got was $13 each for a summer's work," said Cheek, "so obviously they came here for other reasons than money." Some of those reasons were probably the same ones that draw thousands of tourists each summer -- magnificent scenery, close encounters with wildlife, and a chance to experience nature on a grand scale.
As Cheek told us before the ship dropped her off at park headquarters, "Glacier Bay is unique not just because of its splendor, but also its history and its mystery. I can only imagine the connection the Tlingits (native Alaskans) have for this powerful place. I hope you've felt it today, too." In parting, she quoted naturalist John Muir, who, after watching a sunrise in Glacier Bay in 1879, wrote: "The treasures we gained this glorious morning will enrich our lives forever." Amen. Small-Ship CruisingSuch was the first day of our cruise on the Spirit of Endeavor, one of the largest ships of the Alaska Sightseeing/Cruise West line. With only 102 passengers, it is still small -- especially when docked next to one of the gigantic cruise ships that ply the Inside Passage. The advantages of a small ship are many, the most obvious of which is being so close to the nature you came to observe. The dining room is at water level and when whales were sighted outside the windows (a frequent occurrence), everyone -- even the crew -- raced to the nearest deck to enjoy the sight. We came to expect whale entertainment for dinner, leading one guest to quip, "What would you like with your orcas tonight -- a cabernet or a merlot?"
"I like the intimacy of a small ship," said Gus Agustin of Chicago. "I don't feel like a number. You get to know the people and the crew." Maud Tio, of The Hague, Netherlands, captured the difference between small and big ships succinctly: "It's sort of like shopping in a neighborhood grocery versus shopping in a big mall." Picking an ItineraryProbably any Inside Passage itinerary would be spectacular, but the ports of call do vary. Some include Glacier Bay, others Tracy Arm fjord. Some go north, others head south. Each town along the route has its own personality. Our itinerary included stops in Juneau, Skagway, Sitka and Ketchikan. We flew into Juneau and spent a day sightseeing before boarding the Spirit of Endeavor. A must-see is the Mendenhall Glacier, which provides the scenic backdrop for this beautiful capital city. A walking tour of downtown Juneau gives a historical overview. Take time to stop for a drink at the Red Dog Saloon and the Alaskan Bar and Hotel. If time allows, drive a short way out of town to visit the peaceful Shrine of St. Therese, with a stop at the Yax-Te Totem, carved in 1941. You'll think you've stepped into Gold Rush days when you walk along the main street of Skagway. History buffs will want to stop at the 1898 Trail Museum in the Arctic Brotherhood Hall. The most photographed building in Alaska, its facade is decorated with more than 2,000 pieces of driftwood. Across the street is the National Park Service Gold Rush Historic Site, which interprets the events that followed the discovery of Klondike gold in 1896. You can follow the stampeders' Trail of 1898 by taking the historic White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad or the scenic Klondike Highway up to White Pass. From there, you cross the border into Yukon Territory. Established as a trading outpost for the Russian-American Fur Company, Sitka's Russian heritage is very much in evidence. The New Archangel Dancers, a folk dancing troupe, perform daily in Centennial Hall. St. Michael's Cathedral, an orthodox church established in 1808, is in the heart of downtown. The Alaska Raptor Rehabilitation Center, where eagles and other wild birds are cared for and studied, is probably the closest any of us will ever get to a bald eagle.
Perhaps the most spectacular outing is a flightseeing excursion to Misty Fjords National Monument, an experience that even seasoned Alaska visitors rave about. Historic Ketchikan is a shopping bonanza, but outdoor enthusiasts might prefer to visit the Creek Street area by sea kayak rather than on foot. Sport fishing is popular in each port, and we went fishing in both Sitka and Ketchikan. We caught our limit of salmon, which we had frozen and shipped home. Life On Board A Small ShipA leisurely day of cruising afforded the opportunity to go to the bridge to visit Capt. Dave Landis, who has been with the company for five years. "I love doing Alaska," said Landis, who served in both the U.S. Navy and Coast Guard. "I never get complacent or jaded about the wildlife and scenery. When I spent two years elsewhere, I missed Alaska. It's like living a National Geographic special. I sometimes forget this is a job -- I love it." That sentiment is echoed by most of the crew, who seem to enjoy the voyage as much as the guests do.
When To Go and What To TakeThe cruise season for Southeast Alaska is from April to September; July and August are peak. The weather is variable, changing from warm and sunny one minute to windy and rainy the next. The best way to be prepared is to wear layers. Take good rain gear, waterproof footwear, long underwear, wool sweaters and turtlenecks. Don't forget your gloves, hat and sunglasses. Although we only visited a tiny part of Alaska on this cruise, what we saw was vast and magnificent. We quickly realized that Alaska is like sourdough starter -- you can keep enjoying it without ever getting to the end of it. There's always plenty more.
For more information:Alaska Sightseeing/Cruise Alaska Division of Tourism, Ketchikan Visitors Bureau Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau Skagway Convention and Visitors Bureau Images by Alaska Sightseeing/Cruise West Copyright 1999 Barbara Gibbs Ostmann -Updated 5-3-99- |
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From this glorious beginning, the day just kept getting
better. Starting deep in the heart of Glacier Bay National Park, at the
Canadian border, we slowly cruised up inlets and past glaciers as we headed
toward the entrance of Glacier Bay.
Having
a park ranger on board the ship for the day adds depth and meaning to the
experience. Cheek talked about the history and purpose of the park, and
identified the wildlife we saw along the way. One of the benefits of a small
ship is that it can pause, stop or go closer, making the most of the
opportunity to observe whales, sea lions, porpoises, mountain goats, bears,
puffins, eagles and other wildlife. 
Another
big plus is that life on board ship is casual -- no dressing up for dinner and
no assigned seating. Sweaters and slacks are standard attire and you can sit
with whomever you please. Your traveling companions soon become friends. 
Rainy
Ketchikan is a center of Southeast Alaska's cultural heritage. Visitors
interested in learning about Native Alaskan culture might take a walking tour
with Joe Williams, a Tlingit guide, or visit the Saxman tribal house,
Metlakatla long house or Totem Bight State Park. 
In
addition to the friendly crew, great food and comfortable cabins, there are
many other nice touches: wake-up calls for Northern Lights sightings for guests
who request it; binoculars and umbrellas in every cabin; a small gift --
postcard, photograph, candy -- each evening on the pillow of your turned-down
bed. The ship's gift shop even operates on the honor system!