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Exploring Czech Bohemia by car
The Czech Republic is one of the success stories coming
out of the political changes in Eastern Europe; and a very good way to explore
the treasures of its region of Bohemia is by self-drive auto. by Rod Lopez-Fabrega
One of the happiest results
to come out of the collapse of communism has been the rediscovery of the
cultural wealth of Eastern Europe, buried under gray decades of neglect and
misdirection imposed by the former Soviet system. Western European and,
increasingly, American (North and South) and Asian tourists are rediscovering
newly energized countries with histories pre-dating the birth of European
civilization and replete with well-preserved Medieval towns, splendid palaces,
impressive castles—all cultures integral to the development of Western art,
architecture and music.
Self-drive is the only way to explore this area properly. International car rental agencies are all represented at Prague’s newly expanded and modernized Ruzyne Airport. The bottom-line cost for a ten-day rental for a four-door Opel Vectra with a trunk ample enough for two large suitcases, full insurance and all taxes can run about $50 per day. Car theft is very much on the rise here, so full insurance coverage is recommended. You’ll find that roads, from limited access highways to backcountry roads, are excellent and very well marked with intuitive graphic symbols that, for the most part, don’t require a knowledge of the language. Road regulations are pretty much like the ones back home including driving on the right side of the road. With a good road map (Kummerly + Frey puts one out available in the U.S.) and a magnifying glass, you won’t get lost. Self-service gasoline stations are plentiful on main highways, and many have fully stocked convenience stores. The technique at the pump is a bit different from what you are used to. Use the “normal” setting for un-leaded gasoline. Expect to pay more than in the U.S. but less than in other parts of Europe. If you need navigational instructions, you may find that few attendants speak English, but all try their best to be helpful. The ability to pantomime, your good road map, patience and a friendly attitude all come in handy. A good plan is to make the car rental arrangements in your
own country before leaving, pick up your rental car at Prague airport on
arrival, take about nine or ten days to explore Bohemia, return the car to the
airport, take a taxi or public transportation into Prague, and spend your last
four or five days there. It’s a mistake to try to drive in Prague, and it’s a
better plan to leave that marvelous city to the end of your vacation—the icing
on the cake. When you arrive at the airport, car agency desks are about where you would expect to find them, but picking up your car can be an adventure. All rental autos are parked in a special security building about a quarter-mile walk from the terminal across parking lots, several roads and —too short for a taxi ride and a long stretch for tired travelers pulling luggage equipped with those tiny, wobbly wheels.
In fact, the Chapel of St. Wenceslas, located on the first floor of the southern wing has been called, “undoubtedly one of the most beautiful spaces of early Bohemian Gothic architecture.” It has become a popular
wedding chapel for fast track, young professionals from Prague. Recently, a
very few fortunate visitors were invited to attend the lovely private wedding
and reception of a charming young couple, Mira Horak and Petra Hrdinkova. Petra
the young bride, explained in perfect English that, in the Czech manner, she is
now Petra Horakova, adding the “ova” ending to her new husband’s name. The
reception was held in nearby Hotel Zvikov, a well-appointed country inn that is
highly recommended as a place for you to spend a night while in transit (ask
for a room with a river view.) High-season (January-August) rates are about
US$40 for a double. If time permits, another castle in the neighborhood, Castle
Orlik, also is worth exploring before continuing southward.
The Old Town is located inside a great loop formed by the Vlatava River—almost, but not quite an island. Looking down imperiously from the northern banks of the river is the Latran, said to be the second largest castle complex in the Czech Republic (after Prague Castle.) Its most notable residents for three centuries were the Lords of Rozmberk, remarkably democratic royals for their time, granting inhabitants of their town permission to leave property to any person, granting them places where appeals could be made in case of disputes and establishing ordinances to keep the streets clean. On the other hand, citizens were obliged to give contributions when there was a wedding in the Lord’s family and Jews were forbidden to reside in the town. The Rozmberk coat of arms carried a red rose, and that symbol may still be seen everywhere.
Possibly the best view of Cesky Krumlov is from a small balcony located halfway up a steep ramp leading to the castle’s first courtyard where tickets may be purchased for the various castle tours. It is easy to miss, but the balcony looks down imperiously on the entire Old Town nestled in the bend of the river, and the view is breathtaking. Just before the ramp, check out the moats on either side and the several enormous captive bears that reside there.
There is so much of interest in Cesky Krumlov that at least a three-night stay is required to do it justice. Keep in mind, however, that it is a hugely popular destination and is very crowded during high season. There is a good choice of accommodations, and one that can be singled out and is modestly priced and ideally located in the Old Town just around the corner from Old Town Square is the Hotel Konvice. It is small but rooms are large and well appointed. There are no phones or televisions in the rooms, which may be an advantage. Ask for room # 6 with a spectacular view of the Castle Tower.
The hotel’s restaurant is good,
but right next door is a real treat for at least one evening meal: The Tavern
Satlava. Its brick vaulted interior was a bakery in the 16th century
and the atmosphere hasn’t changed much since then. The restaurant’s
low-ceilinged rooms are entirely illuminated by candles, you sit at rough hewn
trestle tables, and there’s an open, wood-burning pit where current owners,
Roman Najbrt and Jaroslav Cieslar will prepare for you the best barbecued meats
and chicken this side of Dallas. You will be ready
for this as dining in the Czech Republic is still hit or miss, and even in
fancy restaurants meals can be disappointing. Since you now will be on the short end of your two-week trip
to explore Bohemia, it is time to head back to Prague. The Czech Republic is a
small country, and you could drive straight through from Cesky Krumlov to
Prague in about three hours. However, it’s a good idea to continue exploring at
a leisurely pace with a stop in Ceske Budejovice (Budweiss in German) and an
overnight in Tabor. Ceske Budejovice is a sizeable town, one of Bohemia’s wealthiest during the 15th century. A huge fire in 1641 destroyed many buildings of the Gothic period, but it was rebuilt under the influence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The modern town has surrounded the old town, but an impressive archway still leads to the old town square, and the area is worth a visit. For beer lovers, a stop on the outskirts of town is mandatory. The original Budweiser brewery still exists and can be visited; though current owners don’t make it easy. If lucky, you can join a group going through, and it’s even better if you understand German.
Another option for your last night before Prague--but a
much less interesting one—is to stop in Tabor. There’s not much to recommend this town unless you are a student of the
Hussite Movement. It’s a convenient place to spend a night while in transit if
you couldn’t get a room at the Hluboka Chateau. The Hotel Kapital is
acceptable. If you are tired of taking a chance on the uncertainties of Czech
cuisine, arguably the best meal in Tabor may be found at the Shanghai Chinese
restaurant a few blocks from the hotel. Now head for the “icing on the cake”—Prague. That marvelous
city deserves and article all on its own, so please stay tuned. Take highway
E55 straight into Prague. They say that all roads lead to Prague, and that’s
especially obvious during rush hour, so a better strategy would be to skirt the
city and return your car to the airport. Then, take a taxi or public
transportation into the city. A final word of caution about driving in the Czech Republic:
pay attention to speed limit signs and remember they are in kilometers and not
in miles per hour. On the back roads you can move along at a comfortable clip,
but on jmain highways nearing the larger cities and most especially Prague, the
police radars are ready to check you out. If you are stopped and it isn’t
obvious by your clothing or your accent or your stunned expression that you
aren’t either Czech or German, you might try saying, “Jsem pochasim z Amerika”
(I am from America--or Canada or ‘Anglie’ or wherever) and have your passport
and all your auto rental papers handy. If you want to add, “But officer, my leg
cramped up and I couldn’t lift it off the accelerator,” you are on your own.
You will be fined and have to pay the traffic cop right on the spot—about US$35
for a minor speeding infraction. Ask for a receipt. Another final word. The Czech people are friendly, most are
especially welcoming to American visitors and are eager to practice their
English. On the other hand, they are still learning to live with free market
practices. Some have found it a difficult transition and have paid a price for
it—particularly those in the arts, dance, music and theater, all previously
subsidized to some extent by socialist governments of the past. Adjustments in
the society have led to a successful entrepreneurial class at one end of the
scale and an increase in petty crime at the other. Recent reports of “white
slavery” and prostitution along the German border towns have elicited a strong
reaction from the Czech government and the personal intercession of U.S.
Secretary of State Madeleine Albright. As a visitor, common sense will shield
you from encounters with any of these situations, and you should feel
absolutely no hesitation in discovering this very special country for yourself.
Hotel Slovan, Plzen: E-mail = hotelslovan@iol.cz ; Fax = 420-19-722-7012 Hotel Zvikov, Zvikovsky Podrahdi: E-mail = icpisek@pi.bohem-net.cz Hotel Klasterni Hospic, Norbertine Abbey accommodations: Fax = 420-169-392-312 Hotel Konvice, Cesky Krumlov: Fax = 420-337-711-327 Unios Tourist Information Center, Cesky Krumlov: E-mail = tourist@unios.cz ; Fax = 420-337-712-424 Hotel Stekl, Hluboka Chateau: Fax = 420-38-7965943 Hotel Kapital, Tabor: Fax = 420-361-252-411 PHOTO CREDITS: Rod Lopez-Fabrega, Mary
Ashcraft, -Updated 10-23-00- |
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TM
One outstanding example of these emerging
treasure troves is the Czech Republic. By now, everyone has heard about the
wonders of Prague, its marvelous capital city, a unique and truly impressive
restoration-in –progress, a city busy scrubbing off the gray grime of its
recent history to brilliant effect. Testifying to this buzz are the huge groups
of tourists thronging across the Charles Bridge and filing through the grounds
of Prague Castle or the Medieval streets of the Stare Mesto (Old Town) or
gaping at the amazingly well preserved Baroque facades of many of its
neighborhoods. Stay posted for more about Prague, or better yet, go see it for
yourself.
When you go, keep in mind that Prague,
international gateway to the Czech Republic, is just one highlight of a proper
tour of this exciting little country. A tourism map lists more than 500
independent sites throughout the Czech Republic that include protected
historical towns, open-air museums of folk architecture, castles and palaces,
monasteries and pilgrimage sites and historic ruins. Most are accessible from
Prague by train, bus or drive-yourself rented car. For someone with a couple of
weeks to spend in the Czech Republic, the richest areas of attractions are in
the central and southern region of Bohemia, extending southwest from Prague to
the German and Austrian borders.
A sensible and easy way to get
acclimated to driving in the Czech Republic and to begin your tour of Bohemia
is to pick up E48 highway near the airport. The most difficult part of your day
will be finding E48 from the airport, so get clear instructions from the rental
agent. Once on E48, drive west to the incomparable spa town of Karlovy Vary
(Carslbad.) The highway is excellent and direct, the scenery beautiful, and
it’s an easy two-hour-drive to Karlovy Vary and back to the 19th
century. A stopover of two nights is minimal to see this very special place and
to get a sense of why it was a favorite “watering place” for European royalty
and remains so for the well-heeled. Taking healthful mineral waters is what you come here for, as well as
curing your ills in its world-famous spas. We’ll tell you about that splendid
resort in another article.
The next major stop for you might
be Plzen. On your way, you will want to spend the morning in Marianski Lazne
(Marienbad,) another handsome resort, its international fame revived by the
1961 French film, “Last Year in Marienbad.” Then continue from Marienbad on
route 24, a backcountry road but not a problem, through the town of Tepla to
the Premonstratsky Klaster, the Norbertine Abbey dating back to the 12th
century. It is possible to have an excellent lunch at the visitor center—and,
if you are lucky, you may share the lunchroom with monks entertaining a camera
crew from Prague filming a documentary about the abbey. Tours of this wealthy
abbey are conducted at regular intervals, though finding one in English may
require adjusting your schedule. Most tours are geared for German tourists as
the East German border is just a few miles west. If your schedule permits, it
is possible to spend the night in monastic but comfortable and spotlessly clean
accommodations for around US$35 for a double.
Now, after some backcountry
navigating, you move on to Plzen on E49. This is a major city with not much to
recommend it other than it being the birthplace of the Pilsner Breweries.
Brewery tours are strangely infrequent; and world-class hotels have not made it
to Plzen as yet. However, this city will give you a taste of what life is like
for the average Czech city dweller, and it’s a convenient one-night stop for
you. When driving into this busy city, avoid confusion by following all
“Centrum” signs. They will direct you to the town center and most suitable
hotels. One faded grand dame of a hotel that is acceptable for the night is the
Hotel Slovan where a double will cost you about US$54.
On your way southeast from
Plzen, a detour that must not be missed is to Zvikov Castle, a partially
restored castle that dates back to the early 13th century. From
Plzen, you can head south on E49, then cut across country westbound on rural
route 19. Head for the pleasant little town of Zvikovsky Podrahdi and to the
castle, located on a spectacular little peninsula at the confluence of the
Vlatava and Otava Rivers. Defended by rivers and cliffs on three sides, the
site has been a fortified settlement since Celtic times. During its days of
glory, Zvikov was one of the most important castles in Bohemia; and King Otakar
II made sure his family had all the comforts and security a royal residence
could provide in those days.
Your main objective now is the
remarkable town of Cesky Krumlov, without a doubt, one of the most interesting
in the Czech Republic and unique in the extent of its preservation as the
perfect Medieval town. As with every historic site in the Czech Republic, it is
a restoration in progress, but throughout its tumultuous history, Cesky Krumlov
was never destroyed by rampaging armies so that its Old Town has remained
largely intact since the early 13th century. In fact, in 1992 the
town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a “monument of world
significance, deserving extraordinary care, attention and support.”
Cesky Krumlov is a town to be
explored on foot. Fresco-covered building facades line every alley and street,
and the castle, converted into a Renaissance palace during the time of Vilem of
Rozmberk, is at the top of the list of places to visit. The amazing Castle
Tower is a thrusting giant covered with decorations symbolizing the Ptolemaic
Universe and constellations visible on Vilem’s birth date. It dominates the
entire town and resembles nothing quite so much as a fanciful Medieval rocket
about to lift off from the most important launch pad on a planet that was
itself at the center of the universe.
Many of the private chambers of the
family still contain authentic original furnishings from the 16th
century. Lavish interiors rival the more familiar ones in the palaces of
Western Europe. But one amazing room is unique in all of the world. It is the
Masquerade Ballroom, and its walls are completely covered with frescos of
costumed guests literally having a ball. Painted in 1748 by a French artist,
they actually represent figures from the Italian and French comedies del arte
theaters. So unusual is this ballroom that one entire wall has been reproduced
and is on exhibition in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The formal Castle Garden is worth a visit.
Connected to the castle proper by a fortified bridge, the gardens contain
fountains, an orangery, a music pavilion, a lake and a modernistic amphitheater
for summer theatrical performances.
Another stop that you must
not miss is Hluboka Chateau. A short distance north of Ceske Budejovice
(highway E49 for a short distance and then on to highway 105.) The chateau
dominates a rocky bluff overlooking the attractive town of Podhradi. Though the
landholding goes back to the 14th century, the chateau was acquired
by the enormously influential (and wealthy) Schwarzenberk family in the 17th
century and expanded to its present state in the mid-19th century.
It was built on the pattern of Windsor Castle in England and is furnished with
breathtaking ostentation. Its library alone is worth the visit, and its
galleries, audience halls and private apartments clearly were designed to show
the world the family stood just a half-step below the gods. The history of this
family, important in the restoration of the Habsburg Empire, includes members
who served to defeat the Ottoman Turks. Commemorating this last accomplishment
is one thought provoking sculpted door handle showing the Schwarzenberk falcon
pecking the eyes from the decapitated head of a Turk.
You may be tempted to strain the
budget and stay for a night in a part of the chateau that has been converted
into the Stekl Hotel, an elegant establishment that ranks among the finest
five-star hotels anywhere. If you are captivated and decide to join the
“beautiful people” of the Czech Republic and the “international set,” you can
buy an apartment or suite here so you and your family can jet over for the
weekend and vacations. There are lots of appropriate outdoor activities to keep
the kiddies busy both physically and intellectually. This includes an
equestrian riding academy that contains a notable art collection. On the other
hand, if you just intend to sleep and run, a “standard” double room that is
anything but standard in its furnishings and amenities goes for about US$75.
Thanks to the favorable buying power of the U.S. dollar in the Czech Republic,
this is quite a bargain for accommodations that would cost you $300 for the
night elsewhere.
Some useful contact information: