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Dutch Country Dining

by Toni Dabbs

Visitors to The Netherlands who believe that dining should be an experience can find fulfillment in the town of Oegstgeest. A memorable meal at Restaurant De Beukenhof awaits those who make the drive along the A44 Motorway, 20 minutes from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport or 15 minutes from The Hague.

The property has a reputation for fine food and gracious hospitality predating even the three- centuries-old beech tree that shades the side court from which the restaurant takes its name (Beukenhof literally means Beech Court). A popular inn stood on the site as early as 1355.

The existing restaurant dates from only 1947, yet it conveys a timelessness, with tasteful furnishings from various periods enriching its traditional ambiance.

Comfortably upholstered chairs of contemporary design surround tables set with crystal, silver and china on crisp white linen. Whitewashed walls relieved by darkened oak beams display artworks and antique sideboards.

Jeroen Schedler, managing director of Restaurant De Beukenhof, points out that five dining rooms of differing sizes are available to accommodate from eight to 80 people. Fireplaces keep rooms cozy on winter nights, he says, but from May through September, when weather permits, some diners find tables in the garden more attractive.

Planted in 1962, the formal garden is lit at night by decorative iron lamps. Expanses of lawn are bordered by beds filled with ornamental and foliage plants that provide varying textures and shades of green which can be appreciated even when blooms are lacking. A pool alongside the dining terrace reflects statues and potted flowers.

Patrons who prefer to eat indoors might begin the meal with aperitifs in the garden before entering one of the dining rooms to savor the creations of Koos van Fulpen, head chef, who has been with the restaurant since 1955.

Van Fulpen describes his culinary style as a happy marriage between Nouvelle Cuisine and the classic school of Brillat-Savarin, but patrons of Restaurant De Beukenhof are more likely to describe it as simply perfect.

Dishes appease the eye as well as the palate. A meal might begin with an appetizer of duck breast marinated in tarragon, basil and dill, served on lettuce and topped with raspberry sauce.

Entrees could include such house specialties as sautéed sweetbread medallions with tiny Dutch pancakes and morel mushrooms or beef tenderloin stuffed with goose liver served with wild mushrooms and a clear truffle sauce.

Seafood is featured in abundance, but menu items depend on which fish are available fresh at the time. An example is sautéed red mullet fillet with spring vegetables in gossamer pastry with a white butter sauce.

Desserts are dreamily light, ranging from a frosty white apple sorbet to some orange flavored concoction of white and milk chocolate.

Each course can be complemented with just the right wine from the restaurant's list of more than 200, including little known discoveries from around the world as well as the greats.

Diners may construct meals from the a la carte menu or choose a fixed price menu of four courses selected by the chef. In either case, they can be assured of the impeccable service that has made the restaurant a favorite of diplomats and aristocrats.

Dinner is served Mondays through Saturdays, with lunch available Mondays through Fridays.

Contact
Restaurant De Beukenhof, Terweeweg 2-4, 2341 CR Oegstgeest, The Netherlands, telephone 071-17 31 88.

Photos by Toni Dabbs

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