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A Day Tripper's Delight

by Toni Dabbs

Ensenada, Mexico, is a good destination for a day trip from southern California cities such as San Diego.

Located on Bahia de Todos Santos (All Saints Bay), Ensenada is just a 73-mile (117-kilometer) drive south of the United States-Mexico border via a modern four-lane highway that skims the Baja coast.

So far, the unassuming fishing and shipping center has managed to avoid the over development that threatens other towns along Mexico's west coast. Yet, it is tourist friendly, with plenty of colorful shops and cantinas.

The area of primary interest to visitors is easily walkable. Its focal point is Plaza Civica on Boulevard Costero. The Plaza is known locally as "Three Heads Park" because it features giant busts of Mexican heroes Benito Juarez (president from 1861 to 1865 and from 1867 to 1872), Miguel Hidalgo (the priest whose 1810 call for rebellion instigated the war for independence from Spain) and Venustiano Carranza (president from 1915 to 1920).

On one side of the plaza is the naval base, while on the other side is northern Baja's largest seafood market. Most of the market's open-air stalls sell catches fresh off the fishing boats that dock nearby, but a few prepare an Ensenada specialty -- fish tacos.

One block over is the main shopping street, Avenida Lopez Mateos. Its stores are well stocked with typical souvenirs -- straw hats, colorful serapes, wood carvings, etc. Some, though, specialize in high-quality ceramics, silver jewelry and leather goods.

Interspersed among the shops are gaudily painted cantinas, with dimly lit bars inside and sunny patios outside. Menus list a mixture of Mexican and American staples such as tacos and burgers, with beers and margaritas to wash them down.

People who prefer wine might want to venture deeper into Ensenada's commercial district to visit Bodegas de Santo Tomas, Baja California's oldest winery, tracing its origins back to 1888. It schedules one-hour tours that conclude with tasting of its products, which include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.

History buffs might consider a stop at Aduana Maritima. Built in 1887, the former customs house is the oldest public building in Baja. It now provides exhibit space for the National Institute of Anthropology and History.

Away from the downtown core, beyond where Boulevard Costero crosses the arroyo, is Riviera del Pacifico Centro Social, Civico y Cultural de Ensenada. Opened in the 1930s as a hotel and casino, the Spanish style structure now contains classrooms, meeting rooms, an art gallery, library, museum and cafe.

The sprawling gardens surrounding the building are worth a visit themselves, with dense green lawns, thickly planted flowerbeds, tile work, fountains and sculptures.

Contact
1-800-44-MEXICO
http://mexico-travel.com

by Toni Dabbs

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