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Grand Ladies of the Riverby Mary Ashcraft
Today the tables have been turned, and people are clambering aboard glamorous new authentic steamboat paddle wheelers like the Delta Queen, the Mississippi Queen and the American Queen to sail the old Mississippi River--not to catch up on the latest news, but to explore this grand river, see its ghosts and hear its stories as only the Mississippi can tell them.
Relaxing on the sun deck listening to the quiet slapping of the big red paddle wheels as they push the boat up or down the lazy river past stately plantations, quaint river communities and sugar cane fields can be hypnotic and give one the sense of floating under the clouds. However, there is much more to do if one is willing to leave the sunshine and dipping pool. The Steamboatin' Times is slipped under each stateroom door every day with a list of the events of the day. There are lectures telling about the lore of the river--especially Mark Twain's river--and stories of the locale. There are parlor games and crafts. During Carnival time, one of the crafts offered is Carnival mask-making with tables piled high with colorful beads and feathers and buckets of shiny sequins for sticking and gluing to create one's own fantasy mask. There is kite flying from the deck--kites furnished by the crew--outboard games like shuffleboard, plus all kinds of boxed inboard games and cards.
The Delta Steamboat Company also features Theme Cruises to suite a wide variety of interests. There are gardens of the Old South, Fall Foliage, Old fashioned Southern Thanksgiving, Civil War, Cajun Culture, Rockin' on the river and Dickens on the Strand, Dixie Fest, the Elvis Years and Mardi Gras on the Mississippi Queen, to name a few. Ports of Call along the river afford one the opportunity to step onto land and into some of the history past and present. Along the 3,000-mile course of the river with all its branches, there are parts that haven't changed since Indians were paddling their canoes from village to village and colonial America was at its beginning. Saved from the wrecking ball and "progress," Laura Plantation is just such a place. This graceful old saffron-colored West Indies-style house was a working sugar cane plantation that prospered for 84 years under care of three generations of strong-willed, intelligent, French Creole women. The stories told here transport one into the charmed and turbulent lives of the Duparc-Locoul family whose strong French Creole culture of language, food, architecture, music and tradition kept them living separately from the rest of the United States for 200 years. In Laura's slave cabins were first recorded the tales of Br'er Rabbit brought from the West Indies by her Senegalese slaves.
All in all, a steamboat vacation is not like any other. Designed for pure comfort there is no bother of taxi taking, dinner reservations to be made or crowded hotel lobbies to fight. The crew is busy making the decisions for you while you have the fun of exploring America from her great rivers. Keep in mind that the trips are paced for adults.
Mark Twain was right. Steamboating is an adventurous way of life. If you want to sample such an adventure, contact your travel agent or The Delta Queen Steamboat Company at (800) 543-1949 or visit their Website at: http://www.deltaqueen.com The Hotel Monteleone is located at 214 Rue Royale, New Orleans, LA 70130-2201and the phone number is (800) 535-9595. Brennans Restaurant is located a block away at 417 Rue Royale. Photos by Oak Alley and Monteleone and by Rod Lopez-Fabrega |
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Mark Twain's love for the Mississippi River lasted all his life, and he noted, "When I was a boy, there was one permanent ambition among my comrades in our village on the west bank of the Mississippi River. That was, to be a steamboatman." Not only was steamboating thought of as an adventurous way of life, but for many people living along our rivers in the 19th century, steamboats often were their only link to the outside world. The shout of, "Steamboat a'comin!" was like a happy summons that brought young and old alike to the levee for the latest news. Today's, sailings are sent off with all the foot-stomping, brassy trombones, trumpets and plucking banjos and the good ole' down-and-dirty sounds of New Orleans jazz.
These three authentic steam powered paddle boats ply the nine rivers of America's heartland and the Old South with all the luxury and comfort of the floating palaces of yesteryear. Boarding one of these Grand Ladies is like stepping through Alice's Looking Glass and finding behind the mirror an elegant Victorian era. Furnished with beautiful antiques of the 19th century, Tiffany inspired stained glass windows and lamps, rich mellow wood paneling, fanciful gingerbread ornamentation, and all sorts of interesting memorabilia of the period, gourmet meals from Cajun and Heartland kitchens, an afternoon tea, moonlight buffet and a crew that considers service a matter of pride, it is very easy to feel like a pampered guest in a grand old Ante-bellum mansion.
Ladies might want to retire to the Ladies' Parlor with its silver tea service and flowered prints. Men have their own special place in the Mens' Card Room with gleaming wood paneling and leather for a game or two. The inviting Mark Twain Lounge with its oversize comfortable chairs and cozy corners floats over the magnificent dining room with its two-deck high ceilings. Each evening after dining on selections from their Cajun and Heartland kitchens (there is a special Heart-Healthy choice as well), the Grand Saloon opens its curtains and the guests are bedazzled with Ragtime, Dixieland Jazz, highlights from Broadway musicals or a sentimental journey of music from the 40's. And, if the night is still young for some, there is dancing until dawn in this very romantic setting.
Nearby on the same old River Road sits Oak Alley Plantation. Built in 1839 in the Greek Revival style by sugar cane planter Jacques Roman for his bride. One reason for choosing this site was the double row alley of live oak trees forming a shady and grand walkway from the levee to his front door. The trees that spread their long and graceful roots over the green lawn are said to be at least one hundred years older than the house. This stately walkway was the perfect introduction to the opulent mansion just in view. The trees, mansion and 360 acres is said to be the most spectacular setting in the Mississippi valley.
One of the main embarkation ports is New Orleans, and it would be almost a sin not to visit her French Quarter before or after steamboating. Behind the street names of Bourbon, Basin, Royal or Toulous thrives America's most exotic city. In the heart of the French Quarter since 1886 is one of the last of the great family-owned and operated hotels in the French Quarter, the Monteleone Hotel. Tennessee Williams, William Faulkner and Truman Capote have called it home, and it is an ideal base for strolling this lively and colorful city. Turn back the clock for breakfast under Palmetto Palms in the patio of Brennan's converted Creole mansion-circa 1795. Mr. B's Bistro and piano bar is very New Orleans with its jazz piano and delicious Creole dinner creations like Mississippi Rabbit and their own grandmother's old family recipe for bread pudding.