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A country of contrasts & creativity

by MADELYN MILLER

Is it safe to go to Israel? Lots of travelers are asking that question. When I decided to go to Israel, my husband was a little concerned because of a recent border incident. But that same week several people died in a Dallas tornado.  On my recent visit to Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, I always felt safe. And I learned that more people die in Israeli traffic accidents than in any kind of military/terrorism skirmishes.

But no one writes about the traffic accidents. So if I had any cautions--it would be ....don't drive. It's hard to believe I'd never been to Israel before. As a travel writer who's taken 30 trips in the past year, it had been at the top of my "must-see" list for ages. But somehow the time was never right.

I wanted to go because some important people who I haven't seen in a long time have moved to Israel.  One of the joys of my trip was visiting a Montessori school for immigrant children founded by my cousin Glenda Kantor. And seeing a teenage boyfriend who is now a Rabbi in Israel married to a Sabra.

Israel was very different than I expected. Somehow I thought it would be more "religious" more temples, more churches. But I got more of an historic feeling than a religious one. Many people did not answer phones on the Sabbath, and a number of stores were closed. And it is the first time I've been in a major city and could not get a daily newspaper.

To me, Jerusalem is like an open air museum, with another historic relic on every corner. I saw all the things you see on your first trip to Israel-- Masada, The Dead Sea, The Wailing Wall--(because there is so much that I want to go back to see.)

My three travel companions had all been to Israel before, one even helping in the Israeli army. They delighted in telling me how things had changed since their first visit. One woman had visited in 1960, and she felt things were very different--but how different are they on a spectrum of thousands of years?

I enjoyed the "newer" things and think the cultured aspects of Israel made the strongest impression on me. Everywhere I went I was fascinated by the architecture. Each new wave of conqueror, carried away by victory and intoxicated by myth, has destroyed the City and built over its ruins. It is a city layered by conquests, built in a plurality of styles where none prevails, unified only by the language of stone.

In Jerusalem, monumentality is not associated with power, but with mystery. A city of gates and walls, Jerusalem is a dense labyrinth of seemingly disconnected places. A new museum or building pops up in the middle of ancient ruins.  The most remarkable building was the new Supreme Court Building. Designed by brother and sister architectural team Ram Karmi and Ada Karmi Melamede, the building aspires to reflect its unique historical and cultural significance in modern Israel and endeavors to represent the basic values of law, justice, truth, mercy and compassion. They chose to surround the building with a simple stone wall so it becomes an integral part of the natural landscape.

From the entry, one ascends a grand stairway similar to a Jerusalem stone alley, towards a curved glass curtain wall where a panoramic view of the city is revealed. The space is reminiscent of Absalom's Tomb as a testimony to the centrality of law through time. The pure pyramidal form tapers toward the apex allowing a column of light to penetrate.

The Israel Festival celebrating the arts was happening while I was there and I saw the opening performance of Trance-Art. Abdellatife Zine, a Morroccan artist, creates human paintbrushes by throwing paint on the white gellabas of Gnawa tribe members. The different colors have mystical meanings--Red symbolizes blood and eternity, green is nature, blue is sky and water, etc. The moving expression of energy as they dance and pound against a white canvas creates a dynamic artwork--a ballet of colors which

Zine manipulates by adjusting the black and white. Accompanied by tribal music, it was exciting to watch the work in progress.

SHOPPING

I also found exceptional creativity in the work of many Israeli craftsmen and artisans. I bought wonderful jewelry made out of antique spoons combined with semi-precious stones.(necklaces $45) When our guide saw it, he wanted to buy it from me for his wife.(I knew then I'd gotten a good deal!)

Hand-dyed silk scarves with colors of the Chagall windows were $12-16. But my favorite purchase was at the Carmel Winery--where they customized wine bottle labels with the name of the recipient. My best deal was from a street vendor selling strings of glass from a push cart.($7.00 a strand) I visited Israel's largest shopping mall and was delighted to see the names of favorite chains in Hebrew. No matter how far you travel, it seems Ben & Jerry's, the Gap, and athletic shoes are there for you.

TASTE OF ISRAEL

Israeli food has to be some of the freshest, healthiest food in the world. Fruits, vegetables, fish and wonderful Israel bread are the staples. Bountiful breakfasts (almost like an elaborate Sunday brunch) started each day at the Crowne Plaza Hotels where I stayed in each city. Since many restaurants are kosher, the breakfasts were usually dairy. The colorful chopped vegetables and fruits and salads were a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach.

Eggplant happens to be my favorite vegetable and Israel really shines with eggplant culinary creations, I had fried, pureed, chopped and creamed eggplant to name a few. All delicious (If I lived in Israeli, I'd write a cookbook called "1001 Ways to Eat Eggplant." I tried the delicious St. Peter's fish and enjoyed Matias--which I have not had often in America. The blending of many cultures introduces an international flair to the cooking.

UNFORGETTABLE MEMORIES

One of the most meaningful moments for me was when I saw the Dead Sea Scrolls. A replica of the scroll type surrounds the walls of the building where they are housed. When I looked at the wording--I could read it! My four years of Hebrew study came back to me. It was exhilarating to think I was reading words written thousands of years ago.

TRAVEL TIPS

1. I flew to Israel on Swissair and arrived in Zurich late morning with a four-hour layover. Since it is only a 10-minute train ride from the airport into the city, we went into Zurich for a quick look at the lake and a bite to eat.  That stop broke up the trip and we arrived in Israel in time for dinner. When we woke up the next morning, none of us were Jet-lagged. I plan to try that approach on other international trips. Besides: we got to see a bonus city!

2. Be sure to have comfortable shoes, water bottles, hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.

3. A guide can really make a difference or a trip where there is so much historical background. I'd recommend Mooli Brog 02-431-442 who not only guides, but also trains other guides. He is the best guide I've had anywhere in the world.

SIGHTS NOT TO MISS

The King David Hotel

Breath taking view, overlooking the ancient walls of the old city of Jerusalem. Try to stop by for tea. The photos on the walls of famous visitors testify that this hotel is like a diplomatic consulate when you consider the interesting meetings held here.

Dead Sea

There is nothing like covering yourself in black mud and then basking in the sun. It really does do wonders for your skin: I tried it (but am not submitting photos with this article) and enjoyed the child-like experience of gleefully putting mud all over my body.

Floating in the Dead Sea is a unique experience. Kind of like how astronauts feel when your whole sense of gravity changes. If it is possible to walk on water--the Dead Sea would have to be the place.

Nature seems to have let loose its unbridled imagination in the Dead Sea Region. Moon-like landscapes are dotted with desert oasis and waterfalls ending in freshwater pools. The blue green of the sea sets off the strange salt formations rearing up above the surface, looking strangely like icebergs that never melt!

VISIT A KIBBUTZ

I stopped at Ein Gedi and would love to stay at their guest house someday. Legend has it that King Solomon composed his "Song of Songs" there. My impression was of a peaceful retreat that would allow creativity to flow.
 
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Photos by Martha Hollis

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