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Jackson Hole,
Wyoming: Excitement for the ages
Magnificent views,
skiing, dog sledding, wildlife
by Randy Black
While it was perhaps 15ºF (-9ºC) outside on this tranquil
morning, under the lush down comforter in my luxurious room at Jackson’s Rusty
Parrot Lodge, I was toasty warm. The contrast between the warmth and comfort
of the bed and the sweet, cold, mountain air was exhilarating. I wanted to see
the day awaken. Filled with expectation, I slipped quietly from under the
soft comforter, so as not to disturb my bride, and shuffled to the window. The
room was still warmed by leftover embers of the romantic fireplace of the prior
evening. My anticipation was rewarded. From my bird’s-eye view on
the third floor of Jackson’s only year around four-star, four-diamond hotel, I
gazed through the nearby snow-covered pines across the still-sleeping town. The
warming light of the sun was beginning to illuminate the top of Snow King
Mountain’s 8,008-foot peak (2,426 meters). Jackson, in the foreground, was
still quiet and dark. Shades of Northern Exposure
Below my window, in the Town Park across from the Rusty
Parrot, I spied a huge moose, silhouetted against the white of the landscape
quietly munching on a bush that had struggled up through the snow. Frolicking
nearby, in the morning’s softly falling snow, was her young calf. To my left,
I gazed in wonder as five mule deer slowly sauntered along the banks of the
small stream that flowed down from the mountain behind the Parrot. The scene was
wonderfully hypnotic. There we were, at the gateway to the amazing magnificence
of Yellowstone Park, the Grand Tetons Mountain Range, the Snake River and
perhaps the best skiing in America. I had to share the scene with my wife. She
was not happy to be awoken so early until…. Until she saw the moose and her
calf and the splendor of the sun’s morning light that, more and more
illuminated the mountains behind this historical western town, Jackson
(elevation: 6,234 feet/1,900 meters.
This was to be our daily routine for the next week. Wake at
dawn, watch the sun rise, enjoy one of the delicious breakfasts served in the
friendly atmosphere of the Inn’s dining room, then off to the slopes by 9 a.m.
or to the wildlife safari or to an all day dog sled ride. More about those
activities later. Then, after a wonderful day full of activities, or as the
veterans say, “aprés ski,” it was back to the Rusty Parrot to enjoy a dip
in the Parrot’s second floor, outdoor jet spa, as the sun set on Snow King
Mountain. Over the next week, after our early evening Jacuzzi, we
walked to any of the nearby international-cuisine restaurants. One of the really
wonderful qualities of “life in Jackson” is that nearly everything is within
walking distance of the Rusty Parrot. Simply not having to get into a car for an
entire week was relaxing. After dinner, we strolled around the historic town square,
touring the many delightful shops that stay open late before heading back to the
Parrot for a late night snack of chocolate covered strawberries, fresh fruits,
home-baked muffins, a variety of hot teas or perhaps a sip of brandy by the
fire. The Parrot’s chef always left the homemade goodies in the
Inn’s living room for the guests who came back late from their nights on the
town. The staff of the Parrot thinks of everything.
Play, eat, play some more, eat some more, a sundown dip in
the lodge’s jet spa, dinner, sleep a little and then do it again. What fun! Day 1
We sampled the Rusty Parrot’s breakfast offerings.
Decisions, decisions, decisions…. Was it to be sautéed trout with fresh dill
and fried eggs, or oven-roasted rosemary pork loin with potatoes, carrots,
onions and eggs? Hazelnut coffee or lemon tea? My bride decided on poached Canadian salmon filet with
roasted red pepper potato puree and hollandaise. I opted for the trout. The
wonderful, always helpful staff of the Parrot offered a dozen choices of freshly
brewed teas and several flavors of coffee. As we left the dining area, delightfully stuffed to the
gills, I wondered how we would manage to bend over later to latch up our ski
boots. Darla, the Parrot’s concierge, a quintessential California girl who had
visited Jackson a year earlier on her own vacation and never left, reminded us
that the town’s ski bus stopped outside the lodge’s entrance on the
half-hour. The idea of leaving the driving to someone else on the snowy, a
mountain road out to the slopes was appealing. The $2 bus tokens are available
at the Parrot’s front desk and can be charged to your room.
Darla offered us a binder containing the menus of the
town’s dozens of restaurants, with the suggestion that we allow her to make
our dinner reservation before leaving for the slopes. “You will come back tired, ready for the spa, and the
restaurants are pretty busy,” she said. “Pick a restaurant that looks
interesting and I’ll make the call on your behalf while you are at the slopes
today.” We chose the Off
Broadway Grill, grabbed our gear and off we went. Skiing the Tetons
Resort acreage: 2,500 acres Lift system:
63-passenger aerial tram to top of Rendezvous Mountain,
10,450 feet Gentle readers, they will get you to the tops of the slopes
quickly. Winter season: November to the beginning of April Operating hours: 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily Internet: Jackson
Hole Mountain Resort Email: info@jacksonhole.com A few words about the ride to Corbet’s Cabin at the top
of Rendezvous Mountain:
I asked the attendant on the tram ride back down to the
Village about the shovels and locator beacons. She said that those daredevils
often skied the backside of the mountain, at their own risk, and thus needed
shovels to dig a skier out should an avalanche trap one. These backside skiers
also had to sign wavers acknowledging their financial responsibility should a
helicopter mountain rescue become necessary to save them: average cost,
USD$10,000. The wife and me? We’re veterans of perhaps 12 days of
skiing in total. The closest we’ll ever come to the backside of Rendezvous
Mountain will be the view of it on the way back to Dallas, from 33,000 feet on
Delta.
With much fear and anticipation, we made the trip to a
point higher than I’d ever been on skis. At the peak, Kathe went first and
showed us the safe way off the mountain. Next followed my wife, and finally me.
Slowly, carefully, we made our way down Lupine Way, which looked like it was
straight down, to the Nez Perce Traverse, and then back and forth, across the
face of the mountain, towards more and more confidence and safely to the bottom.
Even though we were constantly passed by dozens of fearless little rug rats
going much faster, we made it to the bottom without falling even once! I felt
like an expert, but I owned my safe return to the expert ski instruction and
gentle touch of Kathe Coelho and the generosity of the Teton Village, which
furnished her services. And that was just day one!
Back at the Parrot waited our appointment with the soothing
hands of the professional masseuses at The
Body Sage. The Rusty Parrot is famous around the world for not only its
ambiance, hospitality and cuisine, but for its world-class spa treatments. The
small, private spa features six treatment rooms where guests can indulge in
massage, facials, wraps, pedicures and manicures under the hands of several
wonderfully talented young women who not only treat your aches and pains but
educate you for ongoing methods of relaxation and skin treatments back home.
Treat yourself and your other family members to The Body Sage. You will be happy
that you did. Dinner at the Off
Broadway Grill (reservations made earlier by Darla) was an experience that
won’t be forgotten. I enjoyed Medallions of Elk with garlic bourbon sauce,
accompanied by a salad of artichoke hearts, Greek olives, pine nuts and basil
pesto. My child bride found her herb-encrusted salmon with sun dried tomato
vinaigrette wonderful. She was particularly enamored by a side dish that we
shared of Ziti pasta tossed with provençal herbs, sun dried tomatoes and Chévre
cheese. The restaurant’s entrées range from $12-$26. Wines run $16 and up. We
enjoyed a California Merlot, at the low end of the range. Days two and three
Repeat day one. Different restaurants.
We traveled in an eight-passenger Chevy van that was
specially equipped with a sunroof that allowed us all to view the countryside
without getting out of the vehicle. The guide provided long-range binoculars and
tripods for those of us who preferred viewing at super long distance. The photo
opportunities were amazing. Our expedition took us near the National Elk Refuge
with its wintering herds of more than 17,000 elk. Scattered hither and yon were
buffalo, wolves, even bighorn sheep. Eventually, the guide pointed out a
mountain lion mother and her cubs, living high on a cliff in a cave. The cubs
played on the edge while the mother lazed nearby. Wildlife Expeditions offers
many different tours. Visit the website to find out more about this daylong
adventure. Day four
Meet Frank Teasley and his dog, Ace. Jackson’s original
sled dog tour company is owned by Teasely, a professional dog musher for 14
years. Teasley founded Jackson Hole Iditarod
Sled Dog Tours as a “pension plan” for his experienced Iditarod racing
dogs and a “high school” for his younger dogs-in-training for the annual
Alaska Iditarod race. Teasley is a veteran of a dozen of the world-famous races.
His best finish was sixth in 1991. Today, Teasley owns and cares for 120 of the
Alaskan racing sled dogs. His dogs combine the strength, stamina and speed of
the original Eskimo work dogs, with the best of the breed of several Northern
huskies. No other method of travel over snow can compare with dog
sledding. The only sounds that you hear are “shushing” of the musher-guides
and the panting of the dogs. The wind in your face is the only thing you feel as
the sled glides smoothly along the paths to Granite Hot Springs, your
destination. Guests (passengers) depart from the Granite Hot Springs
Trailhead, snuggled warmly in the comfort of a sleeping bag nestled in the
authentic wicker basket behind six, two-dog teams of Alaskan sled dogs. Before departure, the guide introduced us to each dog by
name and purpose, two by two. For instance, the lead team of two dogs is the
smallest and smartest. These two dogs set the pace for the other 10 dogs and
know the direction to travel. The middle four teams more or less range from
experienced and smaller to simply big and strong. The teams nearest the sled are
the muscle dogs. They can pull strongly for miles without rest. They are the
weightlifters of the team.
Our guide, Kevin, was full of information about the bighorn
sheep, moose, eagles, elk and deer we saw along the way. Kevin was formerly a
teacher of physics and science in the Dominican Republic, and is originally from
Oregon. Young and single, this former educator migrated to Wyoming in search of
new adventure. I guess he got tired of the sun and sand. As a guide for the
Jackson Hole Iditarod Sled Dog Tours, he was responsible for the care and
feeding of two, 12-dog teams and lived nearby in a log cabin, without
electricity or indoor water. Go figure.
While we soaked in the pool, Kevin prepared an amazing
lunch on a campfire nearby. The lunch featured fresh, grilled Rainbow trout, a
crisp salad, an assortment of cheeses, chocolate cake and, of course, hot tea.
While the last couple of days of our Jackson Hole
experience included more skiing, we also spent hours exploring the town’s
shops, picking up souvenirs including Native American pottery from the Warbonnet
at 60 E. Broadway in the town’s center, enjoying the local cuisine and keep
our eyes open for the local celebrities who are said to live in and around the
town. Harrison Ford has a home on an 800-acre ranch outside
Jackson, and is said to hang out at the local Ace Hardware store. One of the
locals told me that Ford normally doesn’t show up until late spring or early
summer. “If you see a fellow on a Harley, it’s might be him.” Ford gained
additional notoriety in August 2000 when he flew his own Bell Jet Ranger
helicopter into the Grand Teton National Park to rescue two stranded hikers. One
of the rescued hikers evidently is not too keen for air travel, since she barfed
in Ford’s cowboy hat on the flight off the mountain. Nevertheless, she was
grateful for her rescue. Do you suppose she said, “Sorry I tossed my cookies
in your helicopter,” Mr. Ford? Sandra Bullock is from Jackson Hole. Her parents still live
there, and it’s said that she spends lots of time there, between movies.
During our trip to Jackson, we “thought” we spotted “10” star Bo Derrick
at Teton Village, but with so many sets of sunglasses and so many beautiful
people, who knows, or really cares? Teton Village is delightful, the staff is
great, the prices are reasonable and the scenery and adventures are magnificent. How to get to Jackson, Wyoming
Most photos by Randy Black. Other photos courtesy of the Rusty Parrot, Teton Village, and the Warbonnet Gallery. |
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TM
Jackson, Wyoming – The first thing I noticed was the
silence. It was o-dark thirty and I was barely awake. The crisp, mountain air
that tiptoed quietly through the slightly open window caused my brain to stir
from its slumber. The cool air had a sweetness that confirmed that I was no
longer in the big city. 
Soon it was time for the world famous “Breakfast at the
Rusty Parrot.” 
Those late night moments, in front of the huge,
river-washed-stone fireplace in the lodge’s living room, sitting on the hearth
or relaxing on the huge leather couch were the perfect ending to endless perfect
days at the perfect resort. It was joyful to share a nightcap and some chocolate
or a cup of hot tea and a muffin, and the day’s experiences with other guests
from across the world, before wandering off to bed. There are many good things
to say about Rusty Parrot owner Ron Harrison and his staff and their efforts to
make guests feel truly at home. One thing stands out. Upon returning to our room
every evening, we were always greeted by chocolates on the turned down bed, a
poem written by some long ago Jackson poet placed on our pillow and a cuddly
Teddy Bear placed somewhere in the room. We never knew where Teddy might be
perched. One night Teddy straddled the rustic headboard, another night he was
balanced carefully on the windowsill. One evening, we found him reclining on the
easy chair. But Teddy was always there to greet us. Ron and his staff have a
reputation for hospitality, service and amenities that stretches across the
world. 
Here’s a suggestion. Since you’ll be flying into
Jackson’s airport, skip renting a car and take a taxi to the Parrot. It’s
only about $15 plus tip no matter how many are riding. The drivers are all local
fellows who will point out the 17,000-strong herds of Elk in the National Elk
Refuge, on the left side of the highway on the way into Jackson, the wolves and
deer on the slopes along right side of the highway, the flora and fauna on both
sides and the other interesting sites on the 20-minute drive into Jackson. Once
at the Rusty Parrot, take the daily shuttle busses to the ski areas and walk
everywhere else. It’ll make your vacation so much more relaxing. 
Arriving at the 
Weather permitting, the view is spectacular, but unless you
are expert-rated, stick to the lower-rated runs. As tourists and relative
beginners, my vision at the top was of three young ski champions, wearing
backpacks equipped with shovels and radio locator beacons sliding effortlessly
to the edge of the drop-off, adjusting their goggles, giving one final check to
their equipment, giving us a wave, and then disappearing off the almost vertical
face of Corbet’s Couloir into a cloud of snow. 
But when we did ski at Teton Village, it was exhilarating,
even on the green (beginner) and blue (intermediate) slopes. On day one, we had
the services of Kathe Coelho, one of the experienced and talented staff
instructors at The Village. Despite being a grandmother, Kathe is equally at
home on the Black Diamond (expert) slopes or teaching beginners such as me.
Kathe has her “retirement” years planned perfectly. She splits her year
between the slopes of Jackson Hole and the beaches of Hawaii. Is this a great
world or what?
During our day of instruction with Kathe, she reviewed the
bad habits we had picked up the previous year skiing at Red River and Angel
Fire, New Mexico, and then proceeded to show us what was what and what was not
on Rendezvous Mountain. By the middle of the afternoon, she encouraged us to
venture the top of Gondola Summit (9,095 feet – 2,772 meters) for a blue run.
It was on day three however that we decided to give the ski
slopes a break and venture out with the fine folks from 
A dog day afternoon
A full-day trip leaves the trailhead at 9 a.m. and returns
about 4:30 p.m. The trip up the mountain travels through terrain that is
magnificent. 
About mid-day, it was to rest the dogs while we enjoyed the
relaxing 108-degree waters of Granite Creek Hot Springs, a centuries-old natural
hot springs at the top of the trail. The swimming pool at the top stays 108
degrees year ‘round. The huge basin was constructed by Roosevelt’s CCC in
the 1930s. A young couple lives in the nearby headquarters log cabin, maintains
the campgrounds, the hot springs pool, the public toilets and dressing rooms,
again without electricity, indoor water or a phone, miles from civilization.
They said it’s very, very quiet up there at night. No kidding! Don’t
forget to bring your swimsuit and towel. The hot springs are wonderfully
relaxing and the views will take your breath away.
The trip down the mountain was via a different route than
on the morning trip. While I stepped on one of the sled’s runners beside Kevin
going up the mountain, my wife switched places for the return trip. My view from
the sleeping bag nestled deep in the sled’s basket, defied description.
Standing on the runner, you have a view of the dogs, the snow, the mountain
peaks and the passenger. In the basket, it’s more of the backside of the two
dogs immediately in front of you. And one of the “special” talents of sled
dogs is that they can run full speed and poop at the same time. Thus, stand on
the runner if you take the trip. It’s a little more precarious and strenuous,
holding onto the basket, but more fun and less aromatic.