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Jeffrey's Restaurant and Bar
by Janice Rossen
The combination of low-key atmosphere and exquisite
food makes it utterly romantic. Dinner is always fabulous. Vivid, creative,
artfully prepared--the menu changes daily, though signature dishes such as
Crispy Oysters with Honey Habanero Aioli or Chocolate Intemperance with Gold
Dusted Berries (neither of which should be missed) can usually be found on
offer. The recent addition of a five-course "Taster Menu" includes
these two favorites as well as Caviar Blinis, Vichyssoise with Smoked Salmon,
and then Foie Gras, leading up to a main course of Venison Loin with Roquefort
Corn Pudding and Huckleberry Cabernet Sauce. (As you can see, I usually carry
the menu away with me, like the program to an evening at the theatre). And that
is the key to its success, in my own experience--a setting that doesn't draw
attention to itself allows all of the people at the table to concentrate on
each other. I've had many important conversations at Jeffrey's,
over the years, and many enthusiastic festivals. I have dined there on various
occasions with my husband, my parents-in-law, my best friend Mary, and even my
dissertation advisor, when he was visiting once from Minneapolis. A few weeks
ago, I went there with my friend Tony (a classical scholar who looks like a
film star), and last weekend, with Teri, the editor of a Houston dining
magazine, when she came to Austin. (She is a seasoned food critic, and even she was won over.) All of this is
just to say that I have fun when I eat there, and I love sweeping my guests
into that kind of atmosphere. The wine list is extensive, though my husband and I
usually order wine by the glass, in order to try a couple of different kinds.
Their long list of available brandies and liqueurs will make your head spin.
(Our waiter recommended the Remy Martin 1738--talk about romantic . . . .) The real secret of the restaurant, as I've already
alluded to, is the courteous way in which it treats all of the diners who walk
through the door. The Jeffrey's staff is always perfectly attentive, yet
completely unobtrusive. And the ambiance enhances this sense of comfort--low
lighting with candles flickering on each table, unobtrusive jazz music playing
(with no vocals, to distract from conversation), and pale gray walls with original
artwork. My other favorite spot in Austin--not surprisingly--is the Jeffrey's spin-off café across the street, Cipollina. A
selection of frittatas and breakfast pastries can be found there, along with
the best coffee in town. A variety of take-out food is also available, ranging
from roasted meats to vegetables and salads to pizzas. And the coffee refills
are free, which I think proclaims it to be really
a class act. I'm setting off this moment to meet my friend Kay there, and
perhaps bring home a pizza for dinner. I can see that it all might seem too
good to be true . . . still, tasting is believing. And I'm hooked. Jeffrey's is located at 1204 West Lynn, Austin Texas
(north of 6th Street and south of Enfield Road), and can be reached by phone at
(512) 477-5584. The bar opens daily at 5:00 p.m., the restaurant from 6:00 to
10:00 p.m. daily. Reservations are recommended, especially for weekend
evenings. There is complimentary valet parking. Cipollina Cafe is located at
1213 West Lynn, open daily from 7:30 a.m. |
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TM
None of my friends
from out of town quite believe me when I rave about Jeffrey's. I am, of course,
lucky to have my favorite restaurant be located fifteen minutes from my house,
which makes it handy for celebrating birthdays, anniversaries, arrivals home to
Austin from trips abroad, or just a passionate desire to eat a plate of
"crispy oysters" once more. I never get tired of it, because it isn't
flashy or overpowering. Everything
about Jeffrey's is subtle, understated and elegant. And it has that special
resonance of a place where the people who run it care very much about the whole
enterprise--the restaurant has been in the same spot, managed by the same
owners, since it was started twenty-five years ago.