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The Laurentians

By Mira Friedlander

It may seem like an odd idea to visit the Laurentians in order to view a collection of mostly unknown European painters and antiques, all of them shipped over from dusty German castles. And particularly so, because, even if they include a Cezanne and an occasional furniture piece dating back to the 1400’s, this is not a gallery and neither furniture nor paintings are really supposed to be the main attraction.

That privilege goes to the Hotel du Lac Carling, which houses this unexpected treasure trove and is Quebec’s only five star resort.  Not far from the village of  Lachute and slightly over an hour’s drive from downtown Montreal, the hotel is beautifully isolated and not part of the more famous, and busier, Mont Tremblant.

Tremblant is close enough to visit though and that’s where you’ll find the more challenging skiing.  But Hotel du Lac Carling is perfect for cross-country, family downhill, or for the less expert; and here also is where you’ll find the peace and quiet. The resort is tucked into charming, hilly countryside and faces a fresh water lake, the ski hills and the prestigious Carling Lake Golf Club, considered one of Canada’s finest 18-hole courses. In winter cross-country trails cover the course.

Managers Wim and Coral Steenbakker bring both their European and Californian hotel management experiences to bear on this 100 room property. He’s the businessman, she’s the artist and together they make a perfect team. One example is Coral’s charming skating rink, which features an outdoor wood fire and benches. Another is the games room/bar, where you can settle in and play anything from backgammon and chess to scrabble, while sipping on a cappuccino, savoring a liqueur, or munching on a sandwich.

And there’s a magnificent health center, featuring a pool, racquet, squash and tennis courts, all of it accessible from indoors in cold weather.

What makes Hotel du Lac Carling different from countless other properties offering similar amenities, is the relaxed, at-home ambience that nestles comfortably side-by-side with the slight formalities (such as dinner jackets in the dining room) demanded by a luxury resort.

And what especially won my heart is that jaw-dropping collection of 200-plus paintings.  It took me two days to view them all. Just imagine walking down a hall in a hotel and finding such work lining the walls—not under glass, not identified or labeled—just hanging there as if to say; “If you’re interested fine, if not, fine.”

Hotel du Lac Carling was designed and built by a Mr. Hillebrand, who prefers to remain out of the limelight though he reportedly runs huge orphanages and contributes enormously to his community. He also owns 26 castles in Europe and when he renovated, much of the art and antiques found their way to Lac Carling, where the idea was to create a modern castle. Hence the turret-like structure of the main building, coupled with the ski chalet look of the rest.

The original Cezanne resides in the ultra-luxurious “Chateau,” which sits on its own bit of land around the lake, so you may not get to see it if the place is rented. And it probably will be, given that the Chateau is ideal for retreats, executive conferences and, of course, as a celebrity hide-out. It has 77 rooms, a private beach area, boat house and gazebo, as well as an amber-veined Portuguese marble swimming pool, Persian carpets and a Jacuzzi with a marble table in the centre for card playing. In the early 1970s, both Bob Hope and Bing Crosby were regular guests here.

And while a private gourmet chef is available, the Steenb akkers are also working hard in the main kitchen to create cuisine worthy of the hotel they envision. They have achieved much. One New Year’s Eve menu featured a superb lobster consomme with basted salmon and scallops, as well as succulent venison and wild turkey (there is plenty of game on the menu here because of local farms).  The waiting staff are mostly local and under Wim Steenbakker’s sharp eye, have shaved off their rough edges to become accomplished servers. And the room itself is very pleasant, especially a small turret area with views out onto the hills.

One note for non-smokers: Quebec is still far behind Ontario and you may well find someone puffing away next to you. Steenbakker is anxious to change this and will accommodate anyone who requests non-smoking, but be forewarned that this is not yet custom.

After many other refinements and a room decorating blitz by Coral, the Steenbakkers have found their niche among the Small Luxury Hotels group.

And oh, those paintings...
A visit to Lac Carling calls for a visit to Montreal and if your motive is R&R, then do it right and take the train. Splurge on first class (VIA 1), with its full service meal, drinks, comfortable seats and private waiting room at the station. In Montreal, treat yourself to a stay in the hub of the city’s shopping area on Rue Montagne at Loew’s Vogue Hotel, a recently renovated European-style business hotel that features supremely comfortable and good-size rooms, as well as enormous bathrooms with Jacuzzis and television.

Or, if it’s old-word charm you’re after, head down to the Old City and stay either at Les Passants du Sans Soucy, or the Auberge du Vieux-Port. Both properties are an absolute treat, which is very important because there is precious little accommodation in the Old City. Sans Soucy is the less expensive, but both offer exquisite breakfasts, included with the price of the room.

Of course, if you’re heading out to The Laurentians, you may well opt to continue up to Mont Tremblant. If you do, be sure and check out Canadian Pacific’s latest hotel, the $57 million Chateau Mont Tremblant. Situated at the base of the famous mountain, this luxury conference center has 308 rooms, including 49 luxury condominiums. The design of the property was inspired by both the first inhabitants of the are—the Algonquins, and the first visitors—the courieurs des bois.

But though it hearkens back to history, the hotel is very much in the here and now, with a health and beauty center that includes training facilities, two swimming pools and a seawater therapy center. The commercial wing boasts restaurants, boutiques, a bistro and a delicatessen.

Like Hotel du Lac Carling, Chateau Mont Tremblant is a year-round facility. And if it’s top-flight skiing you’re after, this is THE place to be.

IF YOU GO: VIA 1 to Montreal: 416-366-8411. Hotel du Lac Carling: 1-800-661-9211. Chateau Mont Tremblant: 1-800-441-1414. Les Passants du Sans Soucy: 1-514-842-2634. Auberge du Vieux-Port: 1-514-876-0081. Hotel Vogue: 1-800-465-6654.  

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