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Italy’s Lazio
Region
by Valerie Summers
Next morning I explored the coastal town of Gaeta, boasting a spectacular
beach caressing the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean. This ancient town
was a highly important port and resort town during the Roman Period. One of the prizes of the town was the 13th
century Annunciation Church where Pope Pius IX had prayed. The church’s opulent Golden Chapel was
topped by a 24K gold leaf ceiling and magnificent paintings covering the walls
depicted the life of Christ. Adjoining
the church, via a secret staircase, I discovered a home for elderly indigents,
still in operation. Further exploration took me to the Split Mountain sanctuary
on Mt. Orlando. I ascended 36 meters
above the sea to a lookout over an aquamarine sea which seemed to sparkle with
diamonds. Legend has it that when Jesus died on the cross the earth shook and
the mountain split in half.
En
route to my next stop, Pastena’s famous
grotto, I wound my way through switchbacks and vineyards through lovely old
towns and farms. Halfway between Rome and Naples, the mammoth
Caves of Pasterna are composed of rocks dating back to the Mesozoic era with
some eight to fifty million years old. The caves were discovered in 1926, but it was not until the 1980’s that
they were lighted so visitors could explore their wonders. The entry chamber lead on to the large and
spectacular Blue Lake Room and further along to the Fosso Mastro which created
a striking waterfall. I wandered through narrow tunnels and large caverns
marveling at the subtle colors and dramatic configurations. I continued on to the Weeping Willow Room,
so named because of the shape of a pillar which emulates a willow tree. At one time a large colony of bats lived in
the Bat Chamber, but they are gone due to the excessive lighting. The Room of
Wonders conjured up the shape of an ivory colored elephant’s head. The tour
ended in the enormous Calvary Room where stalactites brought to mind the three
crosses of Mount Calvary. Eerie and
beautiful formations made this exploration most memorable.
The
next destination turned out to be one
of my favorite spots and a town which I later discovered was a favorite among
jet setters. The opulent red and gold
Teatro Comunale Flavio Vespasiano with its hand painted domed ceiling came as
surprise in the very attractive town of Rieti in the Sabina region. Its design,
in 1854, was heavily influenced by the
Opera of Rome. It was surprising to discover such a grand opera house in the
countryside but I learned that it was put to good use. The town was filled with
churches dating back to the 13th Century. I visited the Romanesque Church of Saint Peter the Apostle, the
Episcopal Palace, the Gothic Saint Francis and the 18th century
church of Saint Rufus. A visit to the Civic Museum proved worthwhile. It housed Roman sculptures, epigraphs and
paintings and sculptures from the 14th, 15, 16th, 17th,
18th and 19th centuries. Magnificent paintings and sculptures by the 15th
century Abruzzi masters as well as
works of contemporary painters were included. Viewing the splendid architecture
and magnificent artwork featured in Rieti provided some of the most worthwhile
stops on my tour. On Saturday night it
was time to party and the town came alive. The town plaza teemed with young men and woman out for a
night of socializing. Popular with the
jet set, Rieti is a favorite for winter skiing and gliding from Terminillo
Mountain, the highest in central Italy. The town is truly the heart of Italy and lies in its exact center. Twenty
miles southeast of Rome, the village of Castelgandolfo serves as the summer
residence of the popes. The district is
noted for its wines and olives. The
papal palace was begun in 1629 on the ruins of an older castle and has been
enlarged on several occasions. Just
south of the village, stands the Villa Barberini, also papal property. Other landmarks of interest are the
church of San Tomasso da Villanova which features paintings by Giovanni Lorenzo
Bernini, the celebrated Italian sculptor, architect and painter. My
visit to Lazio was coming to an end and I headed back to Rome, reminiscing
about the past few days. The pace had
been slow and easy. I had visited
beautiful sights, both man-made and those of nature. I learned about the history of the region, its art and
architecture. I had explored caves,
monasteries and churches and had learned first hand of the hospitality of the
Italian villagers. For information:
Aeneas’
Landing Alitalia Cave’s
Tourist Information Office Lazio
Regional Tourist Organization Montecasino Villa
Irlanda Grand Hotel |
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TM
In this, the year of the turning of the century and of the Jubilee celebration,
visits to the Eternal City have a
special significance. Honoring this
occasion, the venerable metropolis has never looked so beautiful. Although Rome is one of my favorite cities
in the world, on my recent visit I enjoyed exploring its surrounding lesser
known and less traveled areas. Savvy
travelers balance the hectic pace of the city with the relaxed atmosphere of
the countryside. The region of Lazio,
of which Rome is a part, boasts a fascinating historical, cultural, and
archaeological heritage and includes many interesting landmarks. 
Heading south from Rome, I motored along the coastal route. The full moon cast a pathway of light on the
Mediterranean. On the opposite side of
the road, the mountains were silhouetted against a starry sky on my way to the
resort town of Gaeta. I checked into Gaeta’s neoclassical Hotel Villa Irlanda,
and discovered a perfect honeymoon spot. Four restored neoclassical buildings, constructed in 1912,
encircled a gigantic azure swimming pool
surrounded by formal gardens overlooking the sea. Although the hour was late,
well past my usual dining time, I headed just up the road to Aenea’s Landing, a
magical restaurant situated in the most romantic setting. Located right on the beach, I dined under
the stars, listening to soft guitar music and the splashing of the waterfalls
and the sea.
On to the Tiberius Villa Museum and Grotto in Sperlonga, I explored the
rambling villa and grounds famous for an episode which took place centuries
ago. During a great feast held at the
cave, the Emperor Tiberius was
miraculously saved from falling rocks which killed many of his fellow feasters.
The villa, now a museum, features some original and some reproductions of the
colossal white marble statues and sculptures of Ulysses’ adventures which were
originally housed in the gigantic cave. 
Moving
inland, a winding three mile mountain
road led me to the l’Abbazia di Montecassino Benedictine Monastery. Founded in 529 by St. Benedict, the austere
abbey was perched high upon craggy cliffs, looming up towards the heavens. Although I expected the inside to be as
austere as its facade, I found instead splendid gardens and terraces, an
opulent basilica, ancient Cyclopean
Walls and a museum filled with art of the masters. Through a side portal, I was
lead through a series of cloisters to the church which featured scenes from the
life of St. Benedict, modern frescoes painted by Piertro Annigoni. The High Alter combined the old and the
new, utilizing the surviving part of the original, designed by one of the most
celebrated Neapolitan artists of the 17th century with the
contemporary work of Antonio Selva. The
abbey houses the first document written in the Italian language. 
Having suffered devastation many times, after each assault, the complex rose
like a phoenix from the ashes, continuing its mission and affording visitors an
opportunity to revel in this spiritual and artful edifice. The most recent
assault occurred in 1944 during WWII when it was almost entirely
destroyed. Only the bases of the church
columns and the 1557 crypt survived the bombing. Fortunately its precious archives and library had been taken away
for safe keeping. The abbey was
reconstructed using, where possible, fragments of the original building,
following its design as well. The
crypt, the only part of the whole complex that survived the war, is of 15th
century origin. It took 19 years for
construction to be completed. Artists
and architects have magically recreated a masterpiece for the ages. This
monastery should be included on any pilgrimage to the area. It is a temple of tranquility and of history
and beauty.
En route to Rieti, I stopped to admire the fortress-like Il Santuario
Francescano di Greccio, a Franciscan Convent built onto the rock wall of a
wooded mountainside. This was the site
of the first recreation of the nativity scene which took place in 1223. It remains intact and a reenactment is
performed and televised each Christmas. I climbed the steep stone steps and toured the stark monastic cells
which included the cell where Saint Francis slept upon a bare rock.. The attached Parish Church, dedicated to St.
Michael, the Archangel, includes several fine pieces of art but features a magnificent 16th century
painting, Madonna Enthroned with Angels and Saints.