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LUXURY IN THE LAND OF THE MAYASBy Paris Permenter and John Bigley
Centuries ago, the Mayas had bathed at this site before crossing the sea to worship on the island of Cozumel. Although snorkeling an underground river in the Mexican jungle may sound like an Indiana Jones adventure, it's an experience open to any traveler visiting Cancun or Cozumel. The 1500-foot river is just one activity at a park called Xcaret (pronounced "esh carett"). Located 34 miles south of Cancun, Xcaret is an ecological and archaeological park that combines water sports, and natural and cultural history, Xcaret offers a full day of activities ranging from swimming with dolphins to touring botanical gardens to feeding iridescent fish in the lagoon.
The Mayan culture once dominated the Yucatan peninsula, their cities dotting the sea level jungle. This culture is considered as important to the New World as the Greeks and Romans were to the Old. In its peak, Mayan cities dotted the coastline from Cancun to Tulum, most hidden today in the lowland jungle. This visit, we only had the opportunity to tour Tulum but we admired models of 26 of the most important Mayan settlements the next day at the museum at Xcaret. Scale models display other cities such as Chichen Itza, a massive site with a pyramid that soars 70 feet in the air and Coba, a giant city where as many as 5000 residents once lived. Several small Mayan ruins have been restored at Xcaret, just off paths that wind through the park's 200 acres. Others lie buried in the jungle, awaiting future exploration. Xcaret is a Mayan word meaning "little inlet." This settlement was at its peak from 1400 to 1517 A.D. The Mayas came to this magical spot to bathe in the clear inlet, purifying their bodies and souls before traveling to Cozumel to worship Ixchel, Goddess of Fertility. We started our visit at Xcaret at the underground river, donning life jackets and snorkel gear before lowering ourselves in the clear, chilly waters. Ranging in depth from four to nineteen feet, this river winds beneath dark limestone passageways. We snorkeled through dark waters then found ourselves back in sunshine when we passed through a cenote, a collapsed sinkhole. Above us, the canopy of the jungle was visible, if only for a few moments before we floated further downstream. Although fish are scarce in the underground river, we noticed their numbers increasing as we neared the sea. The spotting of brilliant sergeant majors, combined with the growing taste of salt in the water, told us we were nearing the inlet. After about 45 minutes of snorkeling, we were finished with the underground river tour, but our day at Xcaret had just started. Our gear was waiting for us at the end of the river, safely locked in the large plastic bags in which we had deposited our cameras and clothing at the start of the journey. Quickly drying in the heat, we were ready to see more of the park. We headed to the dolphin swim area to watch guests frolic with dolphins. Three times a day, six people spend an hour swimming with these mammals. We stood under the palapa of one of three restaurants at the park and watched guests pushed across the pool by the soles of their feet by the bottlenose dolphins. At the end of the hour, the dolphins made a spectacular leap over the guests' heads. Across from the dolphin pool, a sandy beach was lined with sun worshippers and water sports enthusiasts. But our destination was the inlet that had attracted the Mayas. We went to the snorkeling area, armed with food for the fish. Within seconds, the water was churning with a cloud of yellow and black striped sergeant majors. Feeling refreshed after a swim in the clear inlet, we were ready to continue on the path the Mayas had taken centuries before. We were to travel to Cozumel, the island the Mayas called "the land of swallows." Our sea passage aboard a high speed catamaran, replete with air conditioning and videotape viewing, was a far faster and easier one than the Mayas had experienced. We departed the mainland at Playa Del Carmen, a small town just north of Xcaret. Docking at the village of San Miguel, the quiet town, with its traditional Mexican plaza and small shops, was bathed in the light of early sunset. San Miguel is the largest community on Cozumel, but it is a quiet contrast to bustling Cancun. Residents and visitors mix on the street, engaging in a shopping, dining, or conversation. Nightlife, except for a few fun-loving bars such as Carlos 'n Charlies, is quiet on this island. On Sunday nights, residents turn out for the weekly fiesta, held in the downtown plaza. Musicians fill the air with the sounds of Mexican ballads, salsa, and even some '50s rock 'n roll. Dancers of all ages, both locals and vacationers alike, crowd the plaza. Children shop for candy and trinkets at carts, and dedicated shoppers look for bargains in silver jewelry and glassware.
Cozumel is easy to see in an afternoon. The next day we drove around the perimeter of the island, from the western side, with calm seas and chalky beaches, to the more rugged eastern shore, with its strong surf, undertow, and scant development.
The most popular spot on the island is Chankanaab National Park, located south of San Miguel. The water, as clear as Mexican tequila, was dotted with snorkelers following colorful fish. Concessions at the park rent snorkel gear and lockers, but visitors are not allowed to wear diving gloves to protect the delicate coral. As our day at Chankanaab drew to an end, we reluctantly left the water and sought out the shade of a restaurant beneath a tall palapa. After a dinner of ceviche and enchiladas, we followed up with a taste of a unique Mayan specialty: Xtabentun. This Mayan liqueur is made from anise and honey, a sweet end to a journey to the "land of swallows." Health: Cancun's water is purified by a modern filtration system. Most restaurants in Cozumel serve bottled water and the nicer hotels have their own water treatment facilities. Where to Stay: Cancun is home to many luxurious beach front accommodations Ritz-Carlton Cancun (800-241-3333) http://www.uneedavacation.com/ritz%20carlton%20cancun.htm Presidente
Inter-Continental Cancun (800-327-0200) Marriott
CasaMagna Cancun (800-223-6388) Casa
Turquesa (800-525-4800) For
More Information: Photos by Dave Shultz |
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Slowly,
we swam through the dark, cool water, snorkeling along an underground river
that carved its way to the edge of the Yucatan peninsula. 
We
had traveled to Xcaret from Cancun, a cosmopolitan contrast to the natural park
carved in the lowland jungle.
So
we first booked a day trip to Tulum,
Although
Cancun is known for its world-class shopping and high-rise luxury hotels, the
mood in Cozumel is far more relaxed.
But
our destination was the sea.