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MALTA:
A CULTURE VULTURE’S DREAM SPOT
by Joyce Dalton
As
a result, Malta’s 196 sq. miles offer a treasure chest of sites and influences
which can keep culture vultures busy for days on end. Of course, it is
the Mediterranean, so sparkling waters, cumulus-filled skies and fine dining
vie for leisure hours. Three
of Malta’s islands are inhabited, though Comino (all two sq. miles of it)
claims only five permanent residents. However, its beaches, coves, rock tunnels
and especially, the Blue Lagoon attract water enthusiasts. Most come on day
trips from Malta and Gozo, the largest islands. All three islands offer good
diving opportunities.
A
short drive from Hagar Qim leads to the Blue Grotto where a pleasant, if rather
touristy, boat ride makes a nice change of pace. Passing in and out of several
caves, boatmen point out ad infinitim how blue the water is. No question
about the accuracy of their observation but a few less obvious facts would have
been informative.
If “Malta” popped up on a free-association
test, most would respond with “Maltese falcon,” “Maltese cross,” or “Knights of
Malta.” And indeed, much of present-day Malta is the creation of the Knights of
the Order of St. John who arrived in the 16th century and remained for 268
years.
As
is almost every structure on the islands, Valletta was built of local
honey-colored limestone. Called a “city built by gentlemen for gentlemen,” it
was carefully laid out in a grid and no expense was spared. Great attention was
paid to sanitation, comfort and beauty, with a sculpture, usually a saint,
decreed for every corner. The result remains a city that is imminently pleasing
to the eye and manageable by even the most no-sense-of-direction visitor.
Overlooking
the Grand Harbor, the Upper Barracca Gardens run across part of a 16th century
bastion built by the knights, softening the stones with a mass of white, pink
and lavender flowering trees. The gardens make a pleasant resting spot and
offer views across the harbor of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, collectively
known as the Three Cities. Back
on Republic Street, which runs through the heart of downtown Valletta, the Caffe
Cordina, with indoor and outdoor tables, is a great spot for people watching
while enjoying excellent coffee and sweets. Its honey cake is both lovely to
look at and delicious. Between
short distances, excellent roads and a fine and inexpensive bus service (less
than a dollar for the longest ride), visitors can take in a lot, even on a
short trip. Not to be missed, the walled town of Mdina sits high on a ridge
about 30 minutes from Valletta. The Phoenicians, Romans, Saracens and Knights
all prized Mdina and enhanced its beauty. The town served as the seat of power
for Roman governors, became a summer residence of the Grand Masters and was
home to Maltese nobility. Entering
through an elaborate triumphal arch, visitors stroll narrow labyrinthine streets
past architecturally imposing limestone buildings which line either side. Only
residents’ cars are allowed within the walls of this medieval city, lending a
peace and serenity exemplified by its title “The Silent City.” The sense of
history is almost overpowering. To
dine in equally lovely and calm surroundings, try The Medina Restaurant on Holy
Cross St. Here, tables are set in the small plant-filled interior courtyard
where ivy twines up the stone walls of this old Norman residence. There also is
indoor seating under vaulted ceilings. The food and wine are memorable, as is
the service. Phone: (011) 356-454-004. E-mail: medina@vol.net.mt
Practically
running up to Mdina’s walls, the town of Rabat offers its own attractions,
including a fine collection of mosaics in the Museum of Roman Antiquities, St.
Paul’s Grotto where Paul was thought to have lived during his three months on
the island, a 16th century palace constructed by order of a Grand Master, and
two sets of ancient catacombs
Although
Gozo boasts its share of comfortable accommodations, most visitors, unlike
Ulysses, seem content with day-trips from Malta. Among local sight-seeing
options, the Citadel is foremost. Overlooking Victoria, Gozo’s capital, and in
fact, much of the island, this complex’s powerful bastions now encompass
several museums, an old prison and a 17th century cathedral which boasts a
clever trompe l’oeil interior “dome.”
If
you go:
Air
Malta offers twice weekly direct service (no change of aircraft) from New
York’s JFK airport to Valletta. A stop is made in Shannon, Ireland. Phone:
(800) 75-MALTA. A number of European carriers fly to Valletta via various
European gateways.
In
Mdina, Xara Palace Hotel is housed in a 17th century palazzo. Its 17
individually designed suites contain antique furnishings. The property offers
indoor and outdoor dining, including a rooftop restaurant. Rates run $122 to
$234 single, $199 to $317 double, excluding breakfast. Phone: (011)
356-450-560. E-mail: info@xarapalace.com.mt
. Web: www.xarapalace.com.mt . For
further information, contact the Malta Tourist Office. Phone: (877) GO MALTA.
Web: www.visitmalta.com . Images
by Joyce Dalton |
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TM
The
tiny islands of Malta have been attracting travelers for thousands of years.
However, only today’s visitors have come in peace. Over the centuries, the
Phoenicians, Romans, Saracens, Barbary pirates, Crusaders, Ottoman Turks,
French and British all cast covetous eyes on this land strategically situated
in the Mediterranean 58 miles south of Sicily and 163 north of North Africa. 
Both
Malta and Gozo claim impressive ancient sites. On Gozo, Ggantija’s two temples,
covering a quarter of an acre, pre-date the pyramids and Stonehenge, while on
Malta, Hagar Qim and Hypogeum offer intriguing glimpses into times long past.
The former structure, built of huge stone blocks, features sacrificial alters
and openings designed for libations and consultations with oracles. Images of
fish and land animals, as well as pitted honeycomb designs, are etched into the
stones.
Numerous bone and pottery fragments were found at this underground center of ritual
and burial, along with a sculpture known as The Sleeping Lady which is now in
the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta, the capital. 
Lovers
of seafood shouldn’t miss lunch or dinner at one of the many fishing villages.
Marsxlokk proves a winner, both for the quality of food at small restaurants
such as Ix-Xlukkajr and for the many picturesque and often-photographed fishing
boats in its harbor. These colorful craft, with bright shades of blue, yellow,
red, black and green predominant, sport the Phoenician “eye of Isis” on the
prow. This symbol was believed to insure protection in rough seas so why take a
chance today? 
Usually
the second sons of European aristocracy, the knights successfully defended the
islands against invading Ottoman Turks in what became known as the Great Siege
of 1565. Following this victory, they started a building boom resulting in new
churches and other public buildings, plus expanded fortifications. (Malta is
the most heavily fortified nation in the world, relative to its size). They
even created a new fortress city, Valletta, named after their leader, or Grand
Master. 
Each
langue, or language group of knights, had its own auberge. Five of the
original eight stand today, with those of Castile and Portugal generally
considered among the finest. Other sites of interest in the capital include the
Grand Master’s palace which is lined, as are many buildings, with a gallerija,
or colorful enclosed balcony; the city gates; the Manoel Theater, said to be
the second oldest European theater still in use; the Co-Cathedral of St. John
with tombs of various Grand Masters, and the national library containing some
10,000 manuscripts dating from the 12th to the 19th centuries. St. Paul’s
Shipwreck Church, one of Valletta’s oldest, contains relics of the early
Christian figure who was shipwrecked on Malta while en route to Rome where he
was to be tried as a political rebel. 
Ferries
make the 30-minute run between Malta and Gozo numerous times throughout the
day. It’s said that the sea nymph, Calypso, lived here. She promised Ulysses
eternal life if he would never leave her; he stayed for seven years. 
All
around the island, clusters of hilltop villages, with homes huddling close
together for protection, recall the days when raids by Barbary pirates were
common. Limestone quarries still are found on Gozo so not surprisingly, it is
home to a number of sculptors whose studios may be visited. The Azure Window, a
natural rock arch in the sea, provides inspiration and photo ops. 
The
Knights’ long reign resulted in a population that is overwhelmingly Catholic.
For tourists, this means the likelihood of encountering a festa, or
saint’s day celebration. As one tourism spokesperson phrased it, “Every village
has a saint and every saint has a festa.” This means brilliant banners
lining village streets and garlanded churches illuminated by thousands of tiny
colored lights. As confetti pours from rooftops and balconies, robed men hoist
a palanquin bearing a life-sized image of the patron saint and parade it
through the streets on their shoulders. Bands play and decorated nougat cakes
are hawked before elaborate fireworks displays signal time to go home. 
For
North American visitors, a legacy of the British, who ousted the French in 1800
and stayed until independence in 1964, proves welcome --- along with Maltese,
English is an official language. Foreign travel doesn’t get much easier than
that.
La
Meridien Phoenicia is the only five star property in Valletta. It is
conveniently situated near the city gate and the terminus for intra-island
buses. Opened in 1949 and totally refurbished in the mid-1990s, the hotel has
136 guest rooms and suites. The heated outdoor pool is set amid landscaped
gardens by one of Valletta’s many fortress walls. Other features include a
whirlpool, mini golf, two restaurants and a spacious, beautifully designed
lobby where afternoon tea is served. Rates run $125 to $202 single, $149 to
$233 double, including a lavish buffet breakfast. Tel: (800) 543-4300. e-mail: