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Mammoth�s Mammoth California Winter Resort

By Valerie Summers

I first visited Mammoth in 1962 and during my recent stay, I found the town had not changed much during the past nearly 40 years.   The Sierra�s Mammoth Mountain, however, one of the finest ski areas in the country,  has been keeping up with the times. A longtime favorite playground for Southern California skiers, Mammoth is poised for a major expansion.  One of the most important aspects of the new additions will be the opening of the Mammoth Yosemite commercial airport, just six miles from town, providing added convenience and accessibility to the area. 

Situated just east of Yosemite National Park,  Mammoth offers a year �round playground, but  winter is the most popular time for visitors and with good reason.   Last year Mammoth Mountain boasted more than 400 inches of snowfall complimented by 300 sunny California days.  Having schussed the slopes of many western ski areas, I found Mammoth among the best.  The mountain itself, as its name clearly indicates, is huge and so are its runs, both in width and length.  As a longtime intermediate skier, I found comfort in not having to traverse skinny cat tracks or worry  about skiing too close to the edge of a narrow ski trail.  Most resorts indicate four levels of difficulty to the skier.  Mammoth's codes make it even clearer indicating six degrees of difficulty.  This may not mean much to hot-doggers, but it is a great help to novices and cautious skiers.  Starting with Sesame Street, just off the Discovery Chair, beginners seat themselves on the slowly moving quad and are deposited ever so gently at the top of a gradual slope.  Mammoth�s most famous run, the black diamond Cornice, between the Panorama gondola and chair 23, tops out at 11,000 feet.  Mammoth boasts more than 150 ski areas including double black diamond chutes, wide open slopes, big bowls and tree lined trails and for the ride up, 28 lifts including express quads and sixes and two gondolas.  New amenities and improvements are constantly underway.

While stopping for a lunch break on the sun deck of the Main Lodge,  I watched the snow boarders in Unbound Park flying out of the half pipe and soaring off  table tops, backwards, forwards,  spinning, and flipping into the air.  Although this sport is becoming more popular with the mature set, most of the over 40 crowd were happy to join skiers on the slopes,  leaving the acrobatics to the younger folk.

I found amenities at Mammoth Mountain excellent with state of the art lifts and gondolas, beautifully groomed slopes, a friendly staff and a variety of eateries including the Main Lodge, the cozy Mill Caf� off  Stump Alley and Canyon Lodge, with California state flags, hanging in profusion from the ceiling. The rental department�s stock of ski and snowboarding equipment was excellent and the service, quick and efficient.  The ski shop featured an array of fabulous ski wear, so enticing that I purchased a new one piece outfit.  After checking the prices on some of the more prestigious names, I found Nils an attractive, affordable, comfortable line and I felt very fashionable on the slopes in my new ensemble. 

Getting from town to the Mammoth ski area presented no problem.  Free shuttle buses,  running every 15 minutes during the day pass from town right up to the main lodge.  Shuttle stops are conveniently situated fairly close to one another, each with an enclosure for the waiting skiers.  Shuttles continue to run into the evening, but with less frequency once the lifts close.

For a change of pace, I spent a day exploring the surrounding area and came upon the Tamarak Lodge and Resort, a favorite area for cross country skiers.  Adjacent to the pristine John Muir Wilderness, this lakeside resort offers over  20 miles of machine-groomed tracks and ski-skate lanes.   I discovered one of Mammoth�s best restaurants at Tamarak, The Lakefront, specializing in California cuisine.  Tamarak Lodge was built in 1924 by the Foy family of Los Angeles, later immortalized in the movie, The Seven Little Foys.  The family used the lodge to entertain socialites from the entertainment world and through the years Tamarak Lodge has been used in many films.

The road to Devil�s Postpile National Monument was closed, but it  remains a favorite hiking area for summer visitors.  I drove out to Convict Lake, another popular summer area which becomes inaccessible with heavy snowfall.  However, the restaurant at Convict Lake remains open all year �round, and is touted as Mammoth�s finest..  A state of the art spa recently opened at nearby June Mountain, another popular ski area. I discovered dog sledding and snowmobiling facilities for alternative winter activities.  Back in the 60�s, �taking the waters� at Mammoth Hot Springs was a  favorite apres ski activity.  Although some skiers still use the area, hot tubbing in a 103 degree natural spring in the middle of the wilderness has become a more popular and private alternative.  Hot tubbing, because of their remote locations, offers a memorable choice for spending an evening, particularly for the adventuresome.

With all the outdoor activity, I worked up quite an appetite.  I dined one evening at Skadi and enjoyed a very upscale, sophisticated dining experience.  It began with Salad Monaco, an inverted timbale of delicate layers of roasted peppers, avocado, tomato, cucumber and basil, tasty and textured with great eye appeal.   The pan roasted crispy skin Norwegian salmon was an excellent choice and my dining partners were equally pleased with the roast rack of lamb and portobello mushroom stuffed ravioli.  Our shared dessert selections included wild honey and calvados roasted  apples with a petite gateau financiere, a tasting of chocolate desserts and gateau opera.  After a day of skiing under blue California skies, this sumptuous meal ended a perfect day.

After each day of skiing and exploring, I returned to the Cinnamon Bear Bed and Breakfast.  The mouth watering smell of freshly baked peanut butter cookies filled the air as I entered the homey gathering room.  A roaring fireplace, the twinkling lights of a six foot Christmas tree, two red stockings hanging from the mantle with mini Santa figurines decorated the room.  Each evening guests gathered for friendly conversation and complimentary wine, cheese and sometimes homemade cookies.  Breakfasts were hearty and diversified and managers, Cathy and Larry Swinburg went out of their ways to accommodate special requests.  My cozy room featured a  king sized four poster bed with a cream colored faux crocheted  canopy, knotty pine furniture and colorful fruit basket wallpaper. The most recent addition to the Cinnamon Bear were the suites which included small kitchens and separate living areas. 

Mammoth�s accommodations run the gamut from inexpensive chain motels to luxury mountain lodges.  Condominiums comprise many of the area�s rentals and they too, range from basic to amenity-loaded.  Over the next six years, Mammoth will implement multi-million dollar improvements and expansions both on the mountain and throughout the town with over $850 million in new developments, hotels, condominiums, new Village at Mammoth, new restaurants and shops, all part of Project Sierra�s master plan. 

Two great outdoorsmen, photographer Ansel Adams and environmentalist John Muir both found inspiration in the Mammoth region.  Over the next few years, visitors will enjoy facilities and amenities which compliment its astounding natural beauty.  The now unpretentious town of Mammoth Lakes is on its way to becoming an exciting, dynamic village with first class shopping, dining and more luxury accommodations appropriate for visitors to the world class Mammoth Mountain ski resort and winter sports playground.

For information:

Mammoth Lake Visitors Bureau
P.O. Box 48
Mammoth Lakes, CA  93546
888/GO-MAMMOTH
http://www.visitmammoth.com

Mammoth Mountain Vacation Specialists for all-inclusive vacation packages including lodging and reservations for activities including ski school and dog sledding. 800/MAMMOTH
http://www.lodginginmammoth.com

Tamarack Lodge & Resort
P.O. Box 69
Mammoth Lakes, CA  93546
800/237-6879
http://www.tamaracklodge.com

Cinnamon Bear Inn Bed & Breakfast
133 Center Street
P.O. Box 3338
Mammoth Lakes, CA  93546
800/845-2873
http://www.cinnamonbearinn.com

Nils Ski Wear
800/933-NILS
http://www.nilsskiwear.com

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