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PAINTED MONASTERIES AND BRIGADOONby Joyce Dalton
Ho-hum," you re sighing, "more religious frescoes." Yes and no. Frescoes, surely, and unquestionably religious, but in northeastern Romania's Bucovina region, the "big five" painted monasteries greatest treasures aren't hidden behind closed doors. Instead, they cover the exterior walls, eaves to ground, ready to overwhelm viewers at first glimpse. They've been doing just that for some 500 years. Easily accessible from bases in Campulung Moldovenesc or Suceava, these UNESCO World Heritage Monuments can be viewed in one frustratingly rushed day, but are better savored in two or three. Most packaged tours of Romania include at least three of the monasteries. Joining a locally-based tour or hiring a taxi for the day are other options. Those not intimidated by narrow, winding, often pot-holed mountain roads will find a rental car the best way to explore both scenery and sights. A sample circuit could begin from Campulung Moldovenesc's modest but comfortable Hotel Zimbrul (the best in town). Campulung is a much smaller city than Suceava, so easier for drivers to find their way around. In fact, the hotel is right on the main street, as is the turn-off for the first monastery and the return from the last.
Although the monasteries builders could hardly have anticipated 20th century driving times, the fact remains that a 30-minute drive separates one from another. A wooded stretch brings travelers to Sucevita whose powerful stone fortification walls and towers seem more likely to enclose a bleak medieval castle than wall after wall of glorious paintings. Dating to the late 16th century, Sucevita boasts the greatest number of images --- thousands --- painted against a green background often compared to the color of a lawn just after the rain. At the town of Marginea, noted for black pottery, drivers should turn south to Solca where a short detour leads to the monastery of Arbore. If time demands skipping something, Arbore would be the choice as its exterior frescoes have faded considerably. However, the interior offers a chance to observe the Romanian Orthodox custom of hanging embroidered scarves around icons and from chandeliers. In all the monasteries, interior paintings have not fared too well, proving that incense and candle smoke can be more destructive than wind and rain. To reach the next monastery, return to Solca, continue south to the town of Gura Humorului, then follow signs for Humor monastery. You'll know you've arrived when a roadside display of painted eggs, hand-embroidered vests and cloth comes into view. Prices are low, the quality of workmanship high. In the 15th century, calligraphers and painters of miniatures practiced their craft at Humor, whose walls have been described as "pages of a manuscript covered with miniatures, left lying on a lawn." Here, the devil is portrayed as a woman, humorous to today's viewers, but true to ancient peasant belief, while a hora danced in celebration of the Biblical prodigal son's return could have been modeled after a 20th century Moldavian village gathering.
A magnificent Last Judgment covers an entire wall. Animals, including elephants and whales, join people in procession toward the open gates of heaven. First, though, they must pass the seat of judgment. Here, Byzantine-style figures have the soft faces of Moldavian women while angels blow the traditional shepherd' s long horn, the bucium, and the paradise-bound are covered with embroidered cloths. These monasteries remain active, so visitors might chance on a service where the high voices of nuns sing in response to the chanting of the priest. If a clacking sound is heard, it signals a nun circling the church repeatedly striking a long wooden board, or toaca, with small mallets to announce the start of services. From the province of Moldavia, head westward along a good, but mountainous, road to Romania' s most traditional region, Maramures. The drive takes about five hours with no stops, but this is virtually an impossibility, especially for photographers. Picturesque villages (notably Ciocanesti, whose houses covered with painted flowers and geometrics make it arguably Romania' s prettiest village), spectacular mountain scenery and a unique museum smack in the middle of nowhere (Muzeul Radacinilor) with a bizarre exhibit of figures sculpted from tree roots all beg inspection. Gawking becomes even more demanding once Maramures is reached. At Mosei, turn left toward Bistrita, then right after a few miles toward Sacel and Sighetu Marmatiei, the principal town. (Sighetu also can be reached by continuing straight at Mosei, but the lower road passes through the region' s most traditional villages.)
Maramures is Brigadoon land where the way of life has changed little over the centuries. In late afternoon, old women sit outside their gates coaxing coarse wool onto spindles. Many still favor traditional dress, meaning white frounced blouses, striped woven panels covering full black skirts, headscarves and opinci, a sort of leather ballet slipper from which heavy yarn criss-crosses over thick socks. On Sunday, such dress is practically de rigueur, even for little girls. Hardly a village lacks its own small wooden church dating to the 17th and 18th centuries. These are exquisite, high-steepled jewels with multiple gabled roofs, all of a pattern yet each distinctly unique. Seeing at least a few interiors is a must as many frescoes remain in good condition. If time is limited, the interiors at Ieud, Bogdan Voda and Poenile Izei are recommended. The latter depicts some highly original torments for such sins as sleeping in church. Although churches are usually locked, ask any passerby for the key-keeper by pointing at the door and saying cheie (pronounced kay-yay), meaning key. Romanians are extremely kind and friendly and will be sure to help.
For a look at Romania s more recent past, an hour spent at Sighetu' s Museum of Arrested Thought is instructive. Though only a block or two off the main street, it is not easy to find. Ask for the muzeu de inchisoare, (pronounced moo zow oo day un kee swah ray), meaning prison museum. Although built in the days of Austrian-Hungarian rule, the Communist regime utilized the prison for opposition leaders and intellectuals. Three tiers of cells and various exhibits may be viewed; an English-speaking guide is available. An old synagogue (currently under restoration) and the childhood home of author Elie Wiesel (not open to the public) also are in Sighetu.
Beauty assumes many forms. For most travelers, the enduring traditions of Maramures and the magnificence of Bucovina's painted monasteries will define two of them. Helpful informationGetting there Tarom, the Romanian national airline, offers the only direct (no change of aircraft) service to Romania with three flights a week from New York, two from Chicago and two from Montreal. Many U.S. and European carriers fly to Romania with change of aircraft in various European cities. Suggested hotels Perla Sigheteana in Sighetu Marmatiei opened June 1999 with eight double rooms. Rates are $31 per person, including breakfast. Fax (011) 40-62-310-268. The centrally located Hotel Zimbrul in Campulung Moldovenesc offers the town s best accommodations. Rates are from $25. Fax (011) 40-30-314-358. In Suceava, the Continental Arcasul, situated city center, is part of Romania s biggest hotel chain, Continental. Request one of the recently renovated guest rooms. Rates run $29 single, $41 double, $69 suites. Fax (011) 40-30-227-598. For home stays in Maramures or Bucovina, contact the agro-tourism organization Antrec. Rates range from $12 to $25 per person including two meals. Rooms will be clean and comfortable but do not count on private baths or that the hosts speak English. Fax (011) 40-1-222-8322. Information Romanian Tourist Office; phone (212) 545-8484; fax (212) 251-0429; e-mail ronto@erols.com Web site www.rezq.com/ronto Images by Joyce Dalton |
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Robed saints, heads backed by sun-sphere halos, gaze down on tourists gazing up at them. Demons drive rows of sinners toward gruesome fates, while one particularly nasty fellow pulls a now-meek king along by his white beard. Meanwhile, the righteous, aided by angels, ascend ladders leading to paradise.
A 30-minute drive through mountains thick with fir trees leads to Moldovita, founded in 1532. Hundreds of tableaux bring childhood Sunday school lessons to life, but there s also the chance to learn a little history. One of Moldovita's most valuable compositions recreates, in vibrant reds and blues, the siege of Constantinople. For centuries, Romania suffered Turkish invasions and many of the country s 2,000-plus monasteries were built in gratitude for various victories.
Doing the circuit in reverse, starting rather than ending at Voronet monastery, would detract from the sense of perfection and completion that strikes almost all who view this gem. Chronicles state that Stephen the Great, Romania s most renowned ruler, erected the monastery in only three months, back in 1488, to fulfill a pledge after defeating the Turks. Its gentle, yet vivid, blues (popularly known as
"Voronet blue") plus the quality of the frescoes have led to Voronet's billing as the "Sistine Chapel of the East."
From Sacel on, each village offers its share, and more, of wooden houses, many with sculpted designs on balconies and around entrances. Then, there are the towering carved wooden gates, attached to fences half their size, rising before even modest dwellings. Popular motifs include grapevines, acorns, twisted rope, sun symbols, crosses and forest animals. The villages of Barsana and Oncesti have, perhaps, the greatest number of impressive gates.
While the main tourist activities in Maramures are gate-, church- and people-viewing, the town of Sighetu Marmatiei has a few attractions worth visiting. The outdoor village museum, on the road into town, boasts dozens of homes and farm buildings assembled from around Maramures county. Even Oncesti s wooden church has been relocated here.
No trip to Maramures is complete without a look at the Merry Cemetery of
Sapanta, a 20-minute drive from Sighetu. Here, colorful folk art pictures and witty words carved into wooden headstones immortalize the
deceased's foibles, occupations or family problems. No translations, but the pictures tell much of the story. An old woman bakes round loaves of bread, a young person bends in scholarly fashion over his books, one man is shot by soldiers while another tends his flock of sheep.