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The Pope’s Favorite Place

ZAKOPANE, DEEP IN THE HEART OF POLAND

(You will love it, too)

by Marguerite Jordan

Where do you go if you have already skied the Swiss Alps and the Rockies? If you are looking for a new winter sports headquarters with equal amounts of adventure, folk culture and fun-loving people, head straight to Zakopane ("Zah-koh-PAHN-nay") in the Tatra range of the Carpathians, deep in the heart of Poland.

The Zakopane region s striking natural scenery sharp-peaked mountains, broad meadows, curving valleys and deep glacial lakes is the backdrop for an exuberant rural folk culture. The rare American visitor here is amazed how far the dollar goes. Families especially will appreciate the great prices and comfortable village atmosphere. For less than, sometimes much less than  $50 per day, you can do it all: stay at spiffy modern hotels, authentic farmhouse B & B’s or guesthouses left over from Soviet days, hire local transport, buy lift tickets and attend colorful concerts and museums. Try that in St. Moritz or Vail!

Lot Airlines, Poland s national carrier, has direct flights from Chicago and Newark to Cracow, ninety miles north of the extensive mountain range that forms the border between Poland and Slovakia. Frequent bus service connects the two beautiful tourist destinations. LOT can prepare a package for any size group.

Zakopane is the name of both the valley town and its adjacent alpine region, which annually attracts more than 2.5 million visitors. Here are mountains for all tastes and all seasons-- with more than fifty ski lifts and countless cross-country trails, it is the most popular ski region in this part of central Europe. Trail heads or lifts are but a quick walk, bus or carriage-ride out of town.

For years the International Ski Federation has used the Tatras for pre-Olympic tryouts, leading Mayor Adam Bachleda to bid to host the 2006 Winter Olympics. "Our town is one of the most beautiful in the country," he said, "and of course we can handle a large influx of visitors." Although Zakopane was not chosen, it will be in the running again soon.

Winter and summer it attracts Germans, French, Swedish, English, Dutch and of course Poles not just for the breathtaking mountain scenery, but also for the attractive culture that has grown up around the town. It has long been a favorite getaway for artists and intellectuals, musicians and poets.

It is Pope John Paul’s favorite place too. Up until the early 1980 s the athletic pontiff skied and hiked here as often as his schedule allowed. Three years ago the pope returned to pay a nostalgic visit. He said Mass at the foot of a ski jump, with 32,000 area residents in attendance, all wearing their embroidered folk costumes. These Highlanders put on music and dance performances to entertain his Eminence and 400,000 other Poles who came to see him.

Snow begins in November and ends in May. Although some of the highest mountains are in the 6000-foot range, you do not have to be a daring downhill racer to enjoy the attractive heights. Funiculars cable cars, chair lifts and on some mountains horse-drawn sleighs or carriages bring the casual nature enthusiasts to the peaks. Meanwhile experienced athletes ski from ridge to ridge or over well-groomed downhill trails. High altitude cafes and huts make convenient perching spots. You are just as likely to see young college students and people in their 70 s and 80 s out for an afternoon’s outing as you are to see the very fit downhill racers. Popular mountain treats include beer and kielbasa or strawberries and whipped cream on top a freshly-made waffle.

The Zakopane mountain range is in fact a national park. In order to explore it, you would need at least a couple of months. Yet, in under a half day each, you can take a funicular to a half dozen summits. Waiting time for lifts is minimal. For more challenging ascents and descents, visitors are advised to consult the highly regarded Mountain Guides Association or the Zakopane Tourist Board for complete safety guidelines. Mountain weather is often unpredictable and skiing and hiking conditions do vary widely from peak to peak.

Zakopane was first settled in the 1600 s by sheep-herding folk. It was discovered in the mid-1800 s when visitors from Poland’s two largest cities, Warsaw and Cracow, sought out the mountainside retreat for its fresh air and mineral-rich thermal springs. Soon doctors were opening sanatoria and others began to visit. Zakopane evolved into a mental health getaway for artists, philosophers and psychologists, a kind of Polish Berkshires.

Today the town’s atmosphere is a broad mixture of ski-village/Wild West sheeptown. Life is lived outdoors for these hearty people. The main street ulica Krupowki, is a pedestrian thoroughfare and entrepreneurial outpost, an informal, slightly raffish, but very friendly Champs Elysees, with local touches.

From unseen public speakers comes loud music: Christmas carols, Elvis, rip-roaring polkas and Zakopane-style tunes. Street artists sketch caricatures, while young boys play violins for zlotys. On every street corner, wood carvers make walking sticks and toys while you watch.

People schmooze and stand around drinking and joking. It s a convivial place.

Every fifth person, it seems, wears a Highland costume, an attractive white wool pantsuit and cape for men, or a flowing embroidered dress for women. Miniature St. Bernards are as common here as black Labs on Martha s Vineyard.

In places the air is thick with the strong smells of roasted kielbasa or whole chickens. People line up for ice cream, cotton candy, and that American specialty, corn on the cob. Even in winter outdoor cafes do a land-office business in vodka, beer and coffee.

I have visited Zakopane in both winter and summer. What I found to be most extraordinary about this town is its music, which can be heard everywhere: on the street, in taverns, restaurants and hotels, and in concert halls. This is not the Polish music of Lawrence Welk and the "Beer-barrel Polka".

The Zakopane sound is a combination of Dolly Parton, Luciano Pavarotti, Willie Nelson and Janis Joplin, striking in its strength and boldness. This cross between opera and country and western reflects the physical attributes of mountain folk, who can use their large lung capacity to sing boldly and to hold notes for a long time.

It starts simply: three or four people sing a cappella, yet they sound like twenty microphoned voices. Violins then chime in and the sound becomes plaintive, slightly atonal, yet powerful.

One August I was present for the International Highland Folk Music Festival, which the town has been hosting for more than thirty years. In one of the festival’s most exciting displays, The Highland Robbers Dance, a dozen male villagers toss their axe-headed mountain walking sticks into the center of a circle. They perform high kicks and jumps, all the while singing at the top of their lungs. These are authentic folklorists, which is to say they would do it for themselves even if there were no tourists.

While it helps to speak a few words of Polish, English is spoken widely. One caveat: If you are vegetarian, you will have to become creative, as plentiful Polish pork appears at every meal. Alternatives such as eggs and cheese are usually available.

For the independent visitor this is not only a great ski resort situated in a beautiful area, but also a gateway to an exuberant culture. So, come now and kick up your heels (and skis) Zakopane-style, while the place is still purely Polish.

For customized packages or Lot Airlines flight information, call Air Tours Poland 800 223.0593. In January/February, a trip of seven days/six nights from Newark will cost about $650, for flights, transfers, lodging, breakfasts.

A top planning site for in-country activities is www.tatratours.pl; owner Stephen King delights in finding the best ski plans and activities for you.

For additional information contact Zakopane Tourist Information, ul Kosciuszki 17, Zakopane, Poland.

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