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SENSUOUS SOUTH AMERICA

by Madelyn Miller

AMOUR IN ARGENTINA

It takes two to tango and this is one of the most romantic places to share with a loved one.

Argentina gave the world the Tango, the seductive dance that reflects their sizzling culture. It is the nation’s one true art form, combining philosophizing and passion with music. To watch the peacock like performances of dancers, Argentines and tourists sit together in tango clubs, sipping drinks and listening to seasoned singers wad their way through emotionally charged lyrics.

Senor Tango personifies that national dance and was recognized with a government award for tourism. Located in a historic general store, it serves up typical Argentinean food and an unforgettable tango show for about $65.

You can see free tango in the streets of San Telmo, an artist’s quarter south of the Plaza de Mayo. On weekends this is a wonderful place to see street performers, buskars and  artists work in one of the most colorful parts of Buenos Aires. The best value is in Plaza Dorrego’s free city-sponsored “Tango y Baille” on alternate Saturday nights in summer, which showcases singers, musicians and dancers, and gives “Portenos”, as Buenos Aires residents are fondly called, of all ages and classes a chance to show their steps.

If you want to join in, there are several places where you can take tango lessons. The Universidad de Buenos Aires, 25 de Mayo 217, teaches beginners’ from 6:30 to 8pm on Fridays, while more advanced students take the floor from 8 to 10 pm. Non-students pay $7. The Teatro Suizo, on Rodriguez Pena near Corrientes, also has inexpensive tango lessons. For an indulgence, consider a lesson with Oscar Velaquez, 1-775-5885 or 1-777-1392 who charges $30 an hour for private lessons. You don’t need to have a partner, but it is nice to have someone to practice with. He was one of the dancers who appeared in the movie Evita and besides speaking English, he is patient and professional.

Visually, Buenos Aires resembles Paris, that other city of love. There are wide boulevards lined with palatial mansions, flowers sold at colorful corner kiosks, terrace cafes on every block, and the women have that same sense of personal style as Parisians. Body language includes flirtatious glances and flashing stares plus a generous amount of compliments. And when it comes to the language of love, Portenios are masters

The best bedrooms in Buenos Aires must be at the Caesar Park Buenos Aires, every Saturday at least 2 dozen brides check in—even if they aren’t having their weddings there. It is almost a tradition to have photos taken on the dramatic circular stairway that leads down to the main lobby.

Caesar Park Buenos Aires is located in a romantic part of the city. Want something sweet for your Sweetheart? Dash across the street to Paio Bullrich and pick up some Alsajores Havvana, the traditional cookie of Argentina. It comes in two differrent versions : chocolate topping and a sugar frost, being both with "dulce de leche" inside - a sweet

made of sugar and milk......".yummie!, according to South American foodie vera Waissman.

The Havana brand is is made in Bariloche, a beautiful place to ski & to fish trout, but that's another story.

And if you have to travel without your Sweetheart, Caesar Park Buenos Aires makes it easy to keep in touch. They offer free Internet connection 24 hours a day.

ROMANCE IN RIO

The architect of the world must have wanted Rio to be his masterpiece.

He gave it a glorious combination of sun, sea and skies that make Rio one of the most romantic cities in the world. Up and down the beach, a cult-like throng of bronzed “Carioca” (as the lucky residents of Rio are called) worship the body beautiful. Looking good is a religion in Rio and the entire city is their temple. I only pray for a body like the ones I see in thongs all over the beach (actually the thongs are so little you can barely even see them.)

Wherever you go in Rio, romance is in the air. You’ll easily find music, light-hearted fun, and people with a passion for life.

Framed by mountains, facing the sea, Cariocas quite naturally feel very close to nature. Lying on the beach, playing volleyball, swimming, and biking at the end of the day are just part of the everyday life for the people of Rio. One of the best ways of getting to know the Cariocas is by playing with them, You are certainly most welcome to join in.

Lovers of any kind of sport, for Rio’s “Carioca” have lost their heart to soccer. Whether kicking a ball around in the sand or going to the giant Maracana Stadium to watch a match, you will see enthusiastic crowds singing, waving flags and eagerly cheering.

If a city has a soul, the spirit of Rio is cultural, being a free-minded town it welcomes and respects all forms of artistic expressions. And culture is made readily available to all of society with unbelievably reasonable prices for tickets. For six dollars, I enjoyed a Sambo interpretation of the opera Carmen in the Centro Cultural Banco de Brasil, The building itself is a work of art. Call to find out what is playing and go a few minutes early to walk around this historical building, browse in the bookstore, and enjoy a cup of coffee.

A great date does not have to be expensive. You can stroll along the beach humming “The Girl from Ipenema”. On the Copacabana sidewalk, enjoy a chilled fresh coconut drink or an iced lager at one of the many kiosks you’ll find along the way.

If you want to escape the heat, stroll round the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon. And don’t forget to visit Barra beach, the longest in Rio. Set aside a day to wander through the Tijuca Forest. The Botanical Gardens offer far more than flowers and plants—there is a charming café and an orchid house that will fill your spirit with a sense of peace.

With bodies so beautiful, “Cariocas” are eager to adorn them. The Jewelry capital of the world has gems at all price ranges. If your budget is not as big as your eyes,, find some stylish and trendy costume jewels at Bijou Box.  I found a feathered neckpiece for $20 that reminds me a bit of a Samba show. At the Sunday Hippie Faire on Ipenema Beach, I found contemporary settings for semi precious stones in some sophisticated necklaces by Evan & Bruno for $10. (that is the only place he sells, Bruno spends the rest of the week designing and crafting.)

If you want expensive jewelry, you can get good value. After shopping for jewels at H. Stern or Amsterdam Sauer, stop for tea at charming Tiberius Restaurant on the 23rd floor of the Ceasar Park Ipenema and look down at the glorious beach while you nibble on sweets, sandwiches and “dulce de leche” the rich, thick, popular caramel cream.  It is hard to believe any of the natives eat it and still look as good as they do.

Actually it is hard to believe that the “Carioca” eat much of the fabulous food in Rio. Their diet seems to consist of grilled meats, rich stews and ever richer sweets. Traditionally, Saturday is set aside for the “feijoada “bean-feast and Sunday is “cozido” or casserole day.

A favorite style of dining is churrascaria, where you choose from a parade of grilled and barbecued meats are brought to your table. I loved Porcao, which offered a choice of a dozen meats, giant shrimp, platters of sushi and sashimi. Just when you think you can’t eat another bite, they bring out a tempting dessert cart. After a meal like this you can’t do anything but retire to your room. And feel satisfied that you only spent $25 on one of the most wonderful meals in town

Another typical meal is at Geraes which serves food of the Mineira Region. Wonderfully flavorful stews and creative combinations make this a very satisfying experience. Their Dulce de Leche is to die for, and I considered bringing home a big vat of it. The whole meal including a enormous table of tempting desserts is only $8.

It is almost never too late to Samba. You can learn how to Samba at the Samba School. Or get vicarious thrills at performances like the ones at La Platforma. La Platforma has a touristy show of girls in gorgeous costumes. After a while the loud music becomes a bit monotonous, but the photo opportunities abound. Best seats are actually on the balcony upstairs, but visibility is good throughout the theatre.

WORLDLY SAO PAOLO

In Latin America’s largest metropolis, you will find the other five continents mingled together with all that is modern, cosmopolitan and urban. Its, people, whose origins are European, Japanese and Arab, built virtual industrial and commercial empires, bringing with them the culture and cuisine of their homelands, making the city a wonderland of restaurants and shopping centers, as well as center stage for the best in theater, music and the nation’s business affairs.

If this city is known for working hard during the day, it also has a lively night life in the evenings—so lively that it is considered a city that doesn’t sleep. Restaurants are open late and some bars never close. Dance clubs, nightclubs and performances have international performers. On an average night in Sao Paulo, you have a choice of at least 70 performances.

Sao Paulo is considered one of the world’s gourmet capitals. Whether you start you day with breakfast in bed at the Cesar Park Sao Paulo or make the most of the night at the award-wining Japanese restaurant Mariko, with a little bit of luck you’ll discover the sensual side of this major financial center.

The most romantic restaurant in town is Terraco at the top of the tallest building in Sao Paulo. The view is spectacular and the gourmet Italian buffet is a bargain at about $25.

Be sure to stroll around the outdoor patio. This would be the perfect place to propose or at least say, “I love you.”

Be sure to stop for a cup of very Bazilian coffee, because it is the basis of the culture of Sao Paulo. Coffee barons helped create this financial capital

You have to look a little harder, but you will be rewarded when you go beyond the high rise concrete buildings. Along the North Coast of the state of Sao Paulo, you will be surprised by the beaches of Illhabela, Ubatuba and Sao Sebastiao.

BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Senor Tango
Caesar Park Buenos Aires
Posadas 1232 Recolita
Buenos Aires, Argentina 1014
54-1-815-5150
1-877-caesar2
hotel@caesar.com.ar
http://www.caesar-park.com

RIO BE JANIERO, BRAZIL

Riotour
Rua da Assembleia, 10
20119-9000
riotur.riotur@pcrj.rj.gov.br
http://www.rio.rj.gov.br/riotur

Caesar Park Ipanema
Av. Viera Souto, 460
55-21-525-2525
reservations: 0800-557275
http://www.caesarpark-rio.com

hotel@caesarpark-rio.com

Centro Cultural Banco de Brasil
Rua Primero de Marco, 66
Downtown

Parcao
Several locations throughout the city
220-9534

Geraes
Rua do Aouvidor 26/28
Centro
021-242-8610

Bijou Box
Farme de Amaoedo 35
Ipenema
287-142

Evan & Bruno
Travessa Oliveira 212
B. Vermelho- Sao Goncalo
Peirarte 1
Praca Gal, Osorio
Cep 24415-370
Tel 712-3958
Brunowalter@yahoo.com
Sold to public only on Sundays at Ipenema Hippie Fair

La Platforma

SAO PAULO, BRAZIL

Terraco Italia
Av Ipiranga, 344
41 Andar Edificio Italia
Centro Cep 01046-010
Sao Paulo Brazil
011-257-6566

Cesar Park Sao Paulo
Rua Augusta, 1508
01304-01 Sao Paulo, Brazil
1-877-caesar2

GREAT GUIDEBOOKS

BRADT GUIDE TO BRAZIL from Globe Pequot Publications
Fodor’s South America
FODOR'S BRAZIL
TRAVELER'S TALES BRAZIL

Photo in Senor Tango by Rod Lopez-Fabrega
All other photos by Dave Shultz

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