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SKI, SNOWBOARD AND CROSS-COUNTRY
RESORTS FOR EVERYONE

Three of America's Best Destination Resorts from East to West

by Charles Leocha

Winter brings a change in recreation for families in most regions of the United States. Thoughts of nearby hiking, biking and swimming shift to snowsports and the nearby mountains. For many families, major ski resorts are only a short drive away and for those a bit further from the mountains, airlines now connect to airports within easy striking distance of the slopes.

Here are three of the country's top resorts that offer the good skiing, snowboarding and crosscountry life in the East, the Rockies and the West. We start with one of America's first resorts.

Stowe Mountain Resort is Vermont's original ski resort. This resort is linked with one of New England's most picturesque villages. Whatever one has imagined about Vermont towns and ski trails can be found here including a white-steepled church, historic homes and narrow winding ski trails.

This is also home to the Trapp Family Lodge linked with "Sound of Music" fame. The family moved here from Austria in 1942 and established the lodge. One of the sons of the original family, Johannes von Trapp, still runs the property.

The skiing at Stowe is spread across two peaks, Mt. Mansfield, the highest in Vermont, and Spruce Peak. The Front Four trails-Goat, Starr, Liftline and National-dropping down the face of Mt. Mansfield are legends in American skiing lore for their difficulty. Skiing these pitches has become a badge of honor for experts. Billy Kidd, one of America's Olympic champions who grew up in the area, said, "When you fall on one of the Front Four, you feel like you are going to slide all the way to the town."

The rest of the Stowe trails are not all so demanding. On one side of the Front Four, dozens of intermediate and beginner trails twist through the forest. On the other side, Nosedive (though the name sounds rough) offers intermediates a curling line around the steep pitches of the face. Even beginners can enjoy the views from the top of Mt. Mansfield and then ski down Toll Road, a four-mile-long trail through arcades of trees. The trails swooping down, Stowe's other mountain, Spruce Peak are cruisers' delights. Perry Merrill or Gondolier provide wide-open trails where skiers have a chance to make looping turns without daunting pitches.

Young snowboarders have two terrain parks and a halfpipe that add challenge to the area, and cross-country skiers will find one of New England's best trail systems linking the town and the mountain with the Trapp Family Lodge trail system.

Stowe has plenty to keep skiers and non-skiers busy. Shaw's General Store in the center of the village takes shoppers back a step in time to the days when one store served as the meeting place for the entire town. Up and down the main street, century-old homes are filled with craft shops and cozy restaurants. Local crafts and clothing can be purchased next to establishments that serve Vermont lamb, beef and cheeses. Just down the road from the town, the Ben and Jerry's ice cream factory give free tours and samples of their latest tastes.

Crested Butte, Colorado

In the Colorado Rocky Mountains, some of the best ski resorts in the world can be found. In the center of the state, Crested Butte is a resort that offers a wonderful vacation. This old mining town has retained much of its turn-of-the century flavor. The resort has great skiing for all levels of skiers and riders and is far enough away from the major population centers that it doesn't suffer from weekend crowding.

The ski area surrounds the condo-town of Mount Crested Butte only a few miles from the postcard-perfect, old mining town where much of the nightlife and dining is centered. Expert skiers will think they have found nirvana with some of the toughest cliffs and chutes to be found in North America. This resort is home of the Extreme Skiing Championships. But that skiing is separate, and only accessed by a well-marked platter lift, from the rest of the resort that features excellent intermediate and beginner terrain that leads right into the middle of the resort.

Snowboarders can ride on a halfpipe designed for the X Games, enjoy themselves in the terrain park on slides and quarterpipes as well as challenge themselves in the double-diamond areas. Cross-country skiers have an extensive trail system and telemark skiers claim that Crested Butte is the center of their sport's revival.

Nearby, spectacular and isolated Irwin Lodge provides excellent snowmobiling activities as well as North America's largest snowcat powder skiing area. This lodge sits in splendid isolation far up the valley behind the town of Crested Butte and is only accessible on snowmobiles or with cross-country skis. It is worth the trip to see the soaring hotel lobby, for the great meals and days of unrestricted powder and snowmobile trails.

In the evenings après-ski parties spill into the old mining town, continuously connected to the ski slopes by a short shuttlebus ride. Old buildings where bordellos once serviced miners and where saloons were packed with dancing girls and gamblers have been turned into restaurants, bars and shops serving everything from local brews and malt liquors to gourmet meals and chicken fried steaks. This is a town known for having a great time after the lifts stop running.

Mt. Bachelor, Oregon

In the Pacific Northwest, Mt. Bachelor in Bend, Oregon, has been one of America's fastest growing ski resorts. Rising dramatically from the high desert, Mt. Bachelor can be seen for miles. Ski trails drop off the remnants of an extinct volcano cone. From the top of this area, the views of the Cascades are spectacular and the trails back to the base area offer something for everyone.

Intermediates and beginners will have a field day at Mt. Bachelor. The smooth volcanic cone provides a steady pitch and very long cruising runs. When the weather is excellent, the above-treeline skiing is a joy. On windy days, the trees on the lower section of the mountain provide excellent shelter. Beginner trails drop from every lift except the Summit and the Outback chairs. Experts will have to climb a bit to find true challenges on drops through The Pinnacles.

Snowboarders have access to a halfpipe and a terrain park and can find riding everywhere on the mountain. Cross-country skiers have more than 80 km. of trails for kicking and gliding or skating in the region.

Bend, Oregon, the nearest town is about 20 miles away from the skiing. The restaurants here tend toward basic hearty meals. This isn't a center for haute cuisine. The taverns and cafés range from plush couches and folk rock to sawdust covered floors and C&W. The town has a flourishing arts community with regular art walks scheduled during the ski season, plus it has become a center for factory outlet stores. The most important for skiers are the two Columbia Outfitters outlets that may themselves be worth the trip just for the bargains.

Whatever your winter sport activity preferences are, these resorts provide a chance to enjoy all of them. Every member of a family with skiers, snowboarders and cross-country enthusiasts can find world-class facilities whether heading to the mountains in New England, The Rockies or in the Northwest.

By Charles Leocha

Author of Ski American and Canada, a guidebook to more than 100 destination ski resorts in North America. $24.95; (World Leisure); www.resortspace.com

www.resortspace.com/stowe

www.resortspace.com/crested

www.resortspace.com/mtbachelor

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