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SKI YOUR SOCKS OFF

BIG MOUNTAIN MONTANA

by Jerri Brooker

Being "Northwesterners," we like to ski where it's "down-home country" and not too crowded. There are a lot of ski areas in Washington State where we live, but they don't fit the bill. Lines are long, runs are short and narrow, folks are not courteous and you never know when they're going to run into you. The I-5 crowd, fast and furious, operates just like they do on the Seattle freeways going to work. The snow isn't always what it's cracked up to be, either. Ice is the case in the early morning usually. So we head out of state.

We started to ski in our 40's. Our kids were nearing the age we'd no longer had to support them and could finally have some fun ourselves. So we took up skiing. It wasn't my choice, mind you, but my husband liked it - so I had to like it if I wanted to spend time with him. He was CRAZY about it and I soon joined him once I let myself have fun doing it. (Skiing is 80 percent mind and 20 percent skill.)

We take Amtrak from Seattle to Whitefish, Montana and the Big Mountain. First trip there we sat up and slept. Now we know better; we get a bed. A trip that leaves from Seattle, WA, at 4 p.m. in the afternoon and is mostly in the dark is no sightseeing trip. Might as well be comfortable! You'll meet all the other skiers on board and can party all night if that's your style, or you can sleep and be ready to ski once you hit the mountain. You'll be served a wonderful dinner on the train if you choose, in the dining room. It's quite interesting, really, as you are usually seated with strangers.

We arrive in Whitefish, MT, around 5:30 a.m. in the morning. Leaving the train for the bus up the mountain is an eye-opening experience as we are jarred wide-awake by below-freezing temperatures. We have arrived! Brrrr.

The mountain is up a switchback road, and the bus took it all on the turns. We pass Jim Nabor's beautiful home on the way up the mountain. What a treat! Its beautiful, expansive log style overlooks a soaring valley.

We arrive at our destination: The Alpinglow Inn - a ski resort across the street from the Hellroaring lift at Big Mountain. It's heaven, and families are welcome. We walk across the street, head up the quad lift and ski our socks off! When we get tired, we ski down to our room and rest, or have lunch at the Alpinglow Inn Restaurant, then hit the slopes again. The mountain even provides night skiing some nights. And there are lots of fun events planned throughout the season - which begins on November 23 this year.

The Alpinglow Restaurant is one of the best on the mountain. It looks out over the Flathead Valley past Flathead Lake towards Glacier Park in the Rockies. In the evening the star-filled sky awaits as you eat dinner with a view out the huge window at the lodge. The food's excellent, and lunch is the best on the mountain. Prices are moderate. There's also a hot tub for those tired muscles at the end of the day

There are places to stay that are more for the budget-minded, like Hibernation House, and some higher-priced places, like the Kandahar Lodge. The staff hospitality and closeness to the lift sold us on the Alpinglow Inn, so we've gone there ever since. The two-floor-high rock fireplace area in the lobby is a great place to gather and meet others. On one of our trips we met folks from our own town!

If you tire of skiing, take a sleigh ride on Thursday to a rib dinner special. The Hellroaring Saloon has great food and you'll have fun talking with other skiers over some wonderful Montana food if you choose. It's just a few steps away from the Alpinglow Inn. Hang out in the ski shop, too. Rent some new performance skis for a bit of different fun. Buy that Montana sweatshirt, and some warm underwear if you didn't come prepared for Montana weather.

Big Mountain is self-contained. You get there, you stay there, you ski. Don't expect a ski town with shopping and touristy things. This is where you go to ski. Not where you go to shop. However, you can go back to Whitefish for some Montana culture, along with some great art galleries that showcase the talent of the mountainous community. You may also gamble if that's your style. It's a fun little community and folks are real friendly. If you don't want to drive down from the mountain, there's a bus that will take you there.

The runs are wide and challenging. You haven't lived until you've seen the "snow ghosts" up on the mountain - the formations the snow-laden, frozen trees make. If you want some dreamy skiing head for the back of the mountain and ski among the trees. When they say blue run, they mean it. Be sure to check them all out. There are also some black diamonds. The mountain has runs for every skill all over. Expect the runs to be a mile or two long and wide and groomed, but there could also be ice bits to contend with on some.

Take the Glacier Chaser lift to the top and experience skiing like you've never done before. Ride the Gondola up on special dinner nights at the Summit Lodge, or just partake of some excellent choices at the 7,000-foot level for breakfast or lunch. If you're used to "Cascade concrete snow" in Washington State, as we are, you're in for a thrill the first time you get up to your knees in powder. I was sure I was going to crash and burn when I hit the deep snow, but I kept on skiing and soon was in pure ecstasy.

Lots of times the fog sets in around the Summit Lodge and you can't see for a bit when you head down a run. They have colored balls on a line to get you down to the start of the runs, where the fog usually ends. You get used to it after a while.

We love this mountain. There have always been two fellas in their 70's and 80's skiing we enjoyed seeing every year. And there are senior groups that ski there, too. For you young folks, there are lots to keep you occupied, too. Boarders can shoosh on Whitetail and the Pipe Dragon on the backside of the mountain. There's a beginner run, but don't expect it to be as easy as in Washington State.

Want more information? Perhaps to see a photo of the runs or the area? Make reservations? The Big Mountain website at http://www.bigmtn.com is where to check it out. Accommodation information is there, along with a webcam and everything else you'll need to have a fun vacation experience.

Get on over to Montana and do some real skiing. This place is not for wimps!

Copyright 2000 Jerri Brooker

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:

There are lots of places to stay on the mountain or in Whitefish. I would recommend the following. You may get more information on all of them at the Central Reservations number or the Big Mountain web site.

Big Mountain Central Reservations
P.O. Box 1400
Whitefish, MT 59937
Tel: (800) 858-3930
http://www.bigmtn/html/accommodation.html

The Alpinglow Inn
The Big Mountain
Post Office 1770
Whitefish, MT 59937
Tel: (406) 862-6966
Fax: (406) 862-0076
www.alpinglow.com

Hibernation House
Post Office Box 1400
Whitefish, MT 59937
Tel: (800) 838-3930
www.bigmtn.com/html/hibhouse.html

Kandahar Lodge
Post Office Box 1659
Whitefish, MT 59937
Tel: (800) 862-6094
Fax: (406) 862-6095
www.kandaharlodge.com

Amtrak
Tel: (800) USA-RAIL
www.amtrak.com

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