|
St. Croix: The Quiet Virginby Lynn Grisard Fullman
Early years were not as tranquil, however. Spain, Holland, England, France, the Knights of Malta, Denmark and, finally, the United States have flown their flags over St. Croix. The island's rich history, varied architecture and eclectic cultural mix are remnants from the diverse nations that have governed. The largest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Croix's tropical terrain includes rolling hills dotted with sugar mill ruins, old plantation homes, historic sites, spectacular beaches and even a rain forest. Despite the island's popularity, tourist traps have not invaded and T-shirt shops are not on every corner. (T-shirts are available, but many visitors prefer buying local crafts or bargains found in duty-free shops.)
When Columbus discovered the Virgin Islands on his second voyage to the New World in 1493, he landed on St. Croix; yet, for almost a century, the island remained virtually forgotten to the outside world. It's no secret anymore. Instead, while remaining shrouded in tropical beauty, it has added places for visitors to dine, sleep in luxury and sip tropical drinks. (One of the best is the Willy Whacker served at Wahoo Willy's. With mango and pineapple flavors, the frozen treat goes down fast, but be warned: it includes the local Cruzan rum whose effects are rapid.) Scattered across the island are ruins of sugar mills, looking as though someone tossed out a collection of giant thimbles. Reminders of the island's early industry, they remain popular spots for photographers. WATER ADVENTURES
Hotel Caravelle and SCUBA offer a variety of kayaking adventures. "Kayaking lets visitors see the island from a different perspective, " said kayaker and hotel owner Sid Kalmans, adding, "It is relaxing (and) fun and a great way to see St. Croix." One route departs Tamarind Reef Hotel's marina and reaches Green Cay, a small, protected island. (Green Cay is the only place where the St. Croix Ground Lizard is found.) After a beach visit, the tour continues westward toward Christiansted. Along the way, paddlers get unique ocean views of many of St. Croix's famous homes, such as the "Pyramid" house that in 1997 was featured in Architectural Digest. PLACES TO STAYSt. Croix is not filled with high-rise chain hotels. Instead, it offers places operated by home folks who know what guests want and need.
The hotel's guest rooms are decorated in pastel shades and accented with custom-made bedspreads and draperies in colors of the Caribbean. Tropical prints hand-signed by the artist enhance guest rooms.
|
|
TM
It doesn't take long to
discover why St. Croix is affectionately known as "the quiet
Virgin." The island sprawls over
84 square miles, yet life is as gentle here as the tropical breezes that tickle
palm tree fronds. 
It is quiet here, and life is
simple. Locals seem genuinely to enjoy their visitors and treat them as
company, offering hearty "come-back-to-see-us" wishes at almost every
encounter.
The island's transparent
waters make diving a big draw, with several shops offering lessons, trips and
equipment rentals. The island's newest dive shop, St. Croix Ultimate Bluewater
Adventures (SCUBA), is operated by Ed and Molly Buckley, who spend their days
in swimsuits and sunshine.
The AAA 3-Diamond Tamarind
Reef Hotel is an island oasis on the North Shore of St. Croix. Visitors favor
its two beaches, large freshwater swimming pool, Beach Shack with instructors
and watersports (snorkeling, ocean kayaks and windsurfers). The two-story hotel
also has croquet, tennis courts, a conference center with state-of-the-art
equipment and views of an adjacent marina with charter boats for deep-sea
fishing, sailing and scuba diving.
To introduce the unknowing to
the island, Tamarind Reef Hotel from June 1 to Dec. 1, 1999,
is offering $69 nights to anyone who has not previously stayed at the
property. "Once you sample our
Caribbean the way it should be, we know that you will come back,"
predicted property owner Dick Pelton. "In fact," he added, "over
30 percent of our guests return, bringing new friends and family with
them." (The special is valid for a maximum of 10 nights; tax and service
charges are additional.) 
The Hibiscus Beach Hotel has been deemed by Caribbean guidebook writer Kay
Showker as "the best value to appear on this island in years." It has
37 beachfront rooms with patios or balconies overlooking Pelican Cove. Ten
minutes from Christiansted, the intimate, two-story resort is known for an
expansive beach sprinkled with swaying palm trees hung with hammocks. Its open-air restaurant and bar skirt the sand. 
At waterside in the old Danish
port town of the Christiansted, the 43-room Hotel Caravelle is a European-style
property that has received a AAA Three-Diamond Award. Blending old world charm with modern amenities, it has
a quaint, outdoor plaza connected to Wahoo Willie's restaurant where guests
will find a front row seat on the harbor. (Just steps away are some of St.
Croix's historic sites, eclectic architecture, duty-free shopping and a
multitude of art galleries, restaurants and cafes.
Several cruise ships dock at
St. Croix and, by day, passengers flood the main settlements of Frederiksted
and Christiansted. Many tourists, having heard in advance of a local specialty,
are drawn to Sonya's, home of the original hook bracelet that is custom made in
silver and gold. Both towns, founded by
Danish colonists, have buildings that date to the 1700s, making a walking tour
a must for architecture buffs.