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A CULINARY TRIP AROUND SWITZERLAND
BY MADELYN MILLER
If
variety is the spice of life, then the Swiss certainly offer a colorful
palate. Drawing the best from their neighbors, they incorporate cuisine
of Italy, France and Germany into their own Swiss specialties.
Before a meal begins, some Swiss wish each other en Guete or bon appetit,
while others say buon appetito or bien appetit. In any of the four national
languages - Swiss-German, French, Italian, Romansh - it all means the same:
"Enjoy!"
There is no "official" Swiss cuisine; the cooking mirrors the diversity
of local history and customs, but also brims with wonderful innovations.
It's just one of the ways the Swiss celebrate their profound passion
for food. All around the country, Switzerland treasures the distinct tastes
of its regional specialties. Of course, there's the insistence
by almost every region that only their cooks can properly prepare their
specialties. But they do serve up each other's treats with flair and success.
Some common qualities are evident in all genuine Swiss cooking. There's
universal pride in using only top ingredients, prepared to perfection.
The Swiss are very fussy patrons, after all, and they love good food whether
it is a a renowned restaurant such as FLETSCHHORN or down-home simple,
based on unpretentious country fare.
Dishes To Look For
Since
a lake is never far away - nearly every town in Switzerland is within ten
miles of one - there's always a wide variety of fresh-water fish dishes
based on the local catch and kitchen. It's easy to dine on filet de perche
on a lake shore and that was one of the almost daily treats on a recent
trip to the Lake Geneva Region. http://www.lake-geneva-region.ch
Superb specialty sausages - Schüblig, Bratwurst, Wienerli, Emmentalerli
and Saucisson - are tempting treasures of Swiss cooking. Different regions
produce a variety of delicious salamis, often featured as appetizers or
snacks. And don't miss the famous Wurstsalat, a light meal highlighting
sausage and cheese.
In season, the delicate perfume of local mushrooms flows from hundreds
of kitchens. They show up in such specialties as mushroom croûtes
and risotto ai funghi.
Pies and tarts are popular as main courses. They feature fillings of
meat, cheese, bacon, a multitude of vegetables, even potatoes.
The
best known Swiss specialties are based on cheese, of course. Fondue, that
gently bubbling pot of flavorful cheese into which you dip pieces of crusty
bread, is a festive Swiss meal often shared among friends. Usually it features
a mix of Emmentaler and Gruyère, but variations use other Swiss
cheeses such as Vacherin or Appenzeller.
Then there's Raclette, a Valais dish that is one of my personal
favorites. It's traditionally prepared by melting a mountain cheese such
as Bagnes, Gomser or Belalp near a glowing fire, then serving it with potatoes
and sour pickles. Today, especially in Swiss homes, folks melt their slices
of cheese in a table-top electric appliance. You might call it a Swiss
version of fast food.
When it comes to cheese, there's lots more to explore, and every Swiss
city and town has at least one restaurant specializing in cheese dishes.
You'll find a congenial atmosphere and delicious meals - try Käseschnitten
or Croùte au Fromage (a variation on cheese-on-toast), Chäs-Chüechli
or Ramequins (cheese tartlets) and Malakoffs (cheese fritters) .
No
Swiss gourmet journey would be complete without indulging the sweet tooth.
. All over the country, fruit is featured in many desserts, such as incredibly
flavorful fruit tarts and fresh berries with whipped cream. The vast variety
of legendary, sumptuous Swiss pastries is not only enjoyed as dessert,
but also during leisurely afternoons with tea or coffee...at a sidewalk
cafe or on a mountain-top.
But my downfall was Chocolate. You can start you day with chocolate
croissants. You can enjoy Chocolate tarts at lunch. And remarkable culinary
creations of molded chocolate at dinner. Between meals you will be tempted
by Toberone chocolates, the triangular-shaped bars reminiscent of the Matterhorn.
(Maybe if you climb it you will burn off all the calories you gain from
the delicious Swiss food.
A
great variety of crusty breads bearing the typical imprint of their region,
golden Bärner Züpfe (a braided eggbread), jams and fruit preserves,
and real Müesli are all very much a part of Swiss life, especially
at breakfast. And for lunches and dinners, consider escargot, or superb
pâtés. In Switzerland the freshest vegetables and fruits are
widely used, and colorful salads are featured on every menu.
Where To Dine?
Switzerland is a compact country and the dining choices are boundless,
so it's easy to taste all the colorful variety. But which spot to choose
for memorable meals? You can enjoy the supreme dining elegance of a castle...or
join locals at their favorite tavern just down the street. You're sure
to discover dining secrets in unexpected places, too. In the quiet of a
rustic country inn...amid a bustling railway station...on a boat or train.
Be guided by your budget and location, but I dont know anyone who ever
had a bad meal in Switzerland.
Good To Know
Most restaurants serve a "special-of-the-day," a full noon meal known
locally as a Tagesteller or plat du jour. This well-priced repast will
often feature typical Swiss food. It's always safe to ask about the restaurant's
trademark dishes, and a beverage to match. The Swiss craft many wonderful
wines, lively Schnapps (spirits), and brew great beer.
Since less than 1% of Swiss wines are exported, be sure to try them
while you are there.
You never have to worry about the tip. Here, it's included!
Where To Find Fine Swiss Food
Regional Specialties
Look for special regional dishes at restaurants all around Switzerland,
both big-city spots and casual country cafes. Here are a few to look for:
Swiss-German Vigor
Aargau - Rüeblitorte (carrot cake)
Appenzell - Appenzellerei (ham, onions, parsley and cheese), Biberli
(spiced honey cakes)
Basel - Mählsuppe (flour soup), Basle-style Salmon, Basler Läckerli
(honey cookie)
Berne - Berner Platte (smoked pork, sausage, sauerkraut), Meringues
with whipped cream, Bricelets or Brezeli (wafers), Honigläbchueche
(honey gingerbread)
Glarus - Schabzieger (clover cheese), Chalberwürst (veal sausage),
Zigerchrapfe (deep-fried packets of dough with sweet stuffing), Biräbrot
(dried pear bread)
Lucerne - Lozärner Chügelipaschtete (Vol-au-Vent)
Schaffhausen - Bölletünne (onion tart), Schaffhauser Zungen
(almond meringue and butter-cream pastry)
St. Gallen - Bratwurst and Schüblig (sausages), Mostbröckli
Thurgau - Mostbröckli (brine cured meat), Glottlieberhuppen (Huppen
with chocolate filling)
Uri - Älplermagronä (elbow macaroni with fried onions and
mountain cheese, often served with apple sauce), Brischtner Birä (dried
pears in wine with whipped cream)
Zug - Kirschtorte (cake flavored with cherry brandy)
Zurich - Gschnätzlets (sliced veal in cream sauce) with Röschti
(golden light shredded potato cakes), Ratsherretopf (mixed filets and vegetables),
Marzipan-Läckerli (cookie)
Swiss-French Flair
Geneva - Friture du Lac (deep-fried small fish), Fricassée de
porc, Rissoles aux poires (pear fritters)
Valais - Escalope agaunoise (veal escalopes with ham, tomatoes, Raclette
cheese)
Vaud - Filets de Perches St. Saphorin, Papet Vaudois (smoked sausage
served on a bed of leeks and potatoes), Saucisson
Swiss-Italian Pizzazz
Ticino - Busecca (tripe soup), Risotto (rice with many different flavors),
Polenta alla Ticinese, rabbit dishes, Capretto (kid), pasta, Chestnut Vermicelles
(chestnut purée), Sabayon (wine cream), Amaretti (bitter almond
macaroons)
Romansh Vitality
Graubünden - Bündnerfleisch (air dried meat, sliced paper
thin), Salsiz (a hard sausage), Bündner Gersten Suppe (barley soup),
Pizzokels (potato-based dumplings), Maluns (fried-potato dish traditionally
served with Alpine cheese and apple sauce), Scarpatscha (noodle gratin),
Capuns (stuffed Swiss chard leaves), Engadiner Nusstorte (walnut tarts)
Swiss Cookbooks
Purely Swiss Cookbooks are few and far between. Below are a few you
might want to try.
"What's For Dinner William Tell?" This cookbook, edited by Ruth von
Blarer, Linda Geiser and Julie Prince, may be obtained by sending US$ 14.-
including shipping and handling to the Publisher:
Linda Geiser
317 East 5th Street
New York, NY 10003
Phone & Fax: (212) 673 5422
"Culinary Art And Traditions Of Switzerland" 250 spectacular pages illustrating
the traditions of Swiss national heritage. A culinary book filled with
recipes reflecting an appreciation of the environment, table art and customs
in Switzerland. Price: US$ 59.95 plus shipping and handling:
Royale Inter-Continental Industries
501 South Oak Knoll Avenue
Maison Monaco 4
Pasadena, CA 91101
Phone: (818) 440 9945
Fax: (818) 584 6833
"The New Swiss Cuisine - 91 Recipes For The Modern Gourmet" cookbook,
published by Peter Buehrer (famous Swiss cook), is available for a price
of US$ 45.- including shipping and handling:
Art Culinaire Magazine
P.O. Box 9268
Morristown, NJ 07960
Phone: (201) 993 5500
Fax: (201) 993 8779
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
SWISSAIR 800-221-4780
SWISS TOURISM 212-757-5944
http://www.switzerlandtourism.com
Photo of fondue pot and Lake Geneva by Martha Hollis
Other photos courtesy of Swiss Tourism
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