Cooking in Thailandby Carolle Kotkin
Thai cooking has come into its own here as big-time chefs across America are discovering the flavors of the East. Besides the many Thai restaurants springing up, almost every eclectic menu offers several East-West selections. Asian flavors are finding their way into the home kitchen because gourmet stores, Asian markets, and even some supermarkets are stocking their shelves with the necessary fresh herbs, sauces, and spices required for authenticity. Some of the essential ingredients are also used in Caribbean cooking making them easy to find in South Florida. Coconut milk (nahm ga-ti) is the base for most Thai curries and is available frozen or canned. This is not the milk present in the coconut, but a liquid squeezed from freshly grated coconut steeped water. Tamarind pulp adds a tart, fruity taste to many Thai dishes. It is available frozen. Fish sauce (nam pla), an extract of fermented anchovies is used like soy sauce in Chinese cooking. When mixed with other Thai ingredients such as lime juice, ginger, and chilies it adds a rich flavor. Basil, cilantro, and lemon grass are used to add distinctive flavors. Lemongrass looks like a large, slightly woody scallion. Available fresh or dried, it has a citrus flavor. When you find fresh lemon grass, buy extra and freeze it and then use it directly from the freezer. As in other Asian cuisine rice holds a place of honor in the meal. Thai cooking is not complicated and requires only a few special ingredients and techniques such as stir-frying, steaming, and deep frying. Rice is always an accompaniment, and everything is eaten with a fork and spoon. Chopsticks are used for noodle dishes only. Chicken and Coconut SoupServes 6 This unique soup is rich with coconut milk and spicy with the flavors of lemongrass, jalapeno peppers and lime juice. 4 stalks lemon grass or 1 tablespoon grated lemon rind Cut away and discard the grassy tops of the lemongrass stalks, leaving stalks bout 6 inches long. Cut away any hard root section and remove tough outer 2 layers. Using the flat end of a large knife, bruise each stalk, hitting it firmly at 2-inch intervals and rolling it over to bruise the stalk on all sides. Cut each stalk crosswise into 1/4" slices. Bring chicken broth, coconut milk, and lemongrass to a boil in a 3 quart saucepan. Reduce heat, add chicken and simmer until almost cooked through, turning occasionally, about 12 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate; cool. Remove chicken skin and bones. Cut meat into 1/2" pieces. Strain soup into another saucepan. Add lime juice, fish sauce, and jalapeno pepper and simmer for 20 minutes. Add chicken and simmer just to heat through. Taste and add more lime juice if desired. Ladle into sup bowls. Sprinkle with cilantro. Thai Shrimp Cakes6 servings The recipe for these wonderful shrimp cakes was given to me by Anne Grieves of the Take Five Cooking School in Baltimore. Fresh bread crumbs are made by simply grinding fresh bread in the blender or food processor. 4 stalks lemongrass or 1 tablespoon grated lemon rind Cut away and discard the grassy tops of the lemongrass stalks, leaving stalks bout 6 inches long. Cut away any hard root section and remove tough outer 2 layers. Place in bowl of food processor or blender. Pulse to chop. Add cilantro, scallions, and peppers and pulse to finely chop. Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. With slightly moistened hands, form the mixture into 12 cakes, each about 1/2" thick. Coat a large nonstick skillet lightly with oil. Heat over medium heat until hot. Add shrimp cakes without crowding pan. Repeat if necessary. Saut� until nicely browned on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Serve with dipping sauce and cucumber salad. Thai Dipping Sauce:3 tablespoons fish sauce In a medium bowl, mix all ingredients except cucumber, peanuts and cilantro together. Set aside to marinate for at least 1 hour or as long as 24 hours. Add cucumber 1 hour before serving so they will remain crisp. Sprinkle with peanuts and cilantro. Thai Pork SatayServes 6 2 teaspoons curry powder Soak 8 wooden skewers in water at least 30 minutes. Preheat grill or broiler. Heat small skillet over medium high heat. Add curry powder, ginger and garlic; cook, stirring until curry is fragrant and slightly browned, about 1 minute. Transfer to bowl; add coconut milk, lemongrass or lemon peel, red pepper and salt. Cut the tenderloin in half so that you have two pieces about 5 inches long. Trim off the fat and square the edges. Slice the meat lengthwise into 1/4 inch thick strips. The pork will be easier to slice if you first chill it in the freezer for about an hour. Add pork to the marinade and stir to coat. Marinate at room temperature 30 minutes. Weave pork loosely onto skewers. Grill or broil 3 inches from heat source 3 to 4 minutes per side or until firm. Serve with dipping sauce and Thai Cucumber Salad (recipes above). photo by Martha Hollis |
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