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TROIS VALLÈES, BIG AND BEAUTIFUL
France's Largest Interconnected Ski Region
by Charles Leocha
From wherever you stand, you have vistas of snow-covered
mountains stretching as far as the eye can see. And whatever you can see, you
can ski or snowboard down. And in most cases, there is a lift that will take you
to a starting point from which you can glide down any slope. It is truly
amazing.
Another way to look at the expanse of this region is to
take a look at how many of the largest ski resorts in the United States can fit
into the Trois Vallèes region. The late Snow Country magazine once did some of
the calculations that resulted in the conclusion that the six largest ski areas
in the United States could fit inside Le Trois Vallèes. That means that
Killington, Vail, Heavenly, Steamboat, Squaw Valley and Park City could all fit
inside the space covered by Le Trois Vallèes with room left over with almost
10,000 acres left over. So you can throw in Jackson Hole, Taos, Sun Valley,
Keystone, Crested Butte, Alta, Solitude, Cranmore and Stowe and still have room
left over. The expanse is breathtaking. The scenery is spectacular. And the
overall skiing is unmatched.
The Trois Vallèes consists of three roughly parallel
valleys dotted with seven major village centers. Skiers starting in Courchevel
can drop into the relatively new village of La Tania or over the ridge to the
adjacent valley anchored by Mèribel. From Mèribel lifts rise to the next ridge
that offers slopes descending into Les Menuires and St. Martin de Belleville or
to Val Thorens. From Val Thorens a fourth valley, the Maurienne, beckons with
long trails towards the Italian border.
Courchevel
The largest and most upscale resort in the Trois Vallèes
region is Courchevel. This is the land of the beautiful people--the glitterati,
movie stars and models of France. This is the top spot to see and be seen.
Courchevel is actually a series of five villages at different levels along the
side of the mountain. Courchevel 1850 is the most prestigious and has most of
the late-nightlife, but the other villages all have excellent access to the
slopes, convenient lifts, fine restaurants and their own personal flair. Plus,
as you drop down the mountainside so do the prices.
Après-ski in Courchevel is delightful in dozens of bars
just off the slopes. But the nightlife at discos and clubs doesn't get started
until late, very late by American and Canadian standards. If the nightlife seems
out of reach in havens of the rich and famous such as La Grange or Les Caves,
head to Le Kalico, L'Accord or Le Grenier. Mèribel
This village was founded by the British. It was
conceived as a resort where the chalet style would reign supreme. It has
remained true to its beginnings. Peaked gabled roofs over wooden chalets seem to
rise non-stop from the new Olympic complex to the altiport and even the large
hotels in Mottaret are true to the Alpine chalet style. And Mèribel is still
the resort of choice for the British in the Trois Vallèes.
The skiing drops from the ridge separating the resort
from Courchevel and from the Les Menuires/Val Thorens area. The views at the top
of Saulire are 360 degrees of spectacular beauty. Skiers can only dream of
skiing all they can see. From the crest of the opposite ridge, long cruising
trails head to the traditional village of St. Martin de Belleville or to the
purpose-built complex of Les Menuires and a bit further to Val Thorens. At the
end of the valley Mont du Vallon presides majestically with expert runs dropping
beneath the lift. Mèribel is relatively quiet at night. But nightlife can
be found at Dick's Tea Bar, a clone of the bar in Val d'Isère. Both Mèribel
and Mèribel-Mottaret have plenty of excellent restaurants with excellent meals
ranging from gourmet to Savoyard country. Les Menuires/St. Martin de Belleville
These villages are at the lower levels of the Vallèes
du Belleville. The are an exercise in opposites. Les Menuires is modern and
purpose built. St. Martin de Belleville is old and traditional. Together they
offer the best of both worlds.
In Les Menuires you will find skiers traveling with
families and those looking for the steeps. The skiing is wide open on the
west-facing slope, with lifts running up toward Val Thorens. An abundance of
beginner and intermediate runs pass picturesque shepherd huts on the way down
the valley toward the traditional baroque village of St. Martin de Belleville. The east-facing side of the valley offers more
challenging skiing from Pointe de la Masse (9,213 feet), which can be reached
rapidly by riding a combination of two high-speed lifts. In the afternoon the
area is deserted as skiers follow the sun. The off-trail skiing from here and
nearby C”me de Caron is exceptional, especially in spring when skiers can drop
over the backside of these mountains with certified guides. The lifts taking
skiers to the Roc des Trois Marches and to Mont de la Challe provide the best
connections to Mèribel and the rest of Les Trois Vallèes. Val Thorens
None of the Trois Vallèes villages is more attuned to
the single-minded pursuit of winter sport than Val Thorens. From the moment you
park your car in indoor parking near this cluster of high-rise apartments and
hotels, you can feel the hum of sport activity.
As the highest resort in the Alps, Val Thorens, it's
wide-open, bowl-type skiing above the tree line. The Pèclet cable car takes
skiers up to the Pèclet glacier, offering year-round skiing for intermediates
and above. While most of the skiing in the bowl-shaped area above Val Thorens is
intermediate and advanced, experts can find plenty of challenges. The cable car ride to the top of C”me de Caron, the
highest point in the three valleys, is spectacular if you are lucky enough to be
blessed with clear weather and limited winds. The view is worth the trip, the
rocks on top make a perfect picnic spot and the runs seem endless. From here you
can take a black run straight down, or a slightly easier advanced intermediate.
True experts will want to ski over the ridge to the little-used fourth valley
and the lone Rosael quad chair that will bring you back. When skiing Val Thorens be ready for changeable weather.
At this altitude the winds can pick up at an instant and clouds can move in
quickly. Dress for winter conditions, even if the skies are clear and the sun
strong when you leave the base area for Cime Caron. Val Thorens over the past few years has added excellent
accommodations to supplement the original apartment complexes. Even the rich and
pampered can find lodging here that will provide hot tubs and luxury suites. But
those who come for the sport without the high pricetag can find excellent rooms
in hotels and residences. Charles Leocha is the author of Ski Europe (World
Leisure) $21.95 |
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TM
The
Trois Vallèes is beyond imagination for skiers who have only visited resorts in
the U.S. and Canada. It can not be explained. It can only be experienced. But
even a lifetime of experience won't allow a skier to search out all that the
Trois Vallèes has to offer. It is that big, that vast, virtually endless.
This
region is the heavyweight king when it comes to destination, lift-served ski
regions. No other national region comes close to these vast peak-studded
skifields and valleys and the interlocking modern lifts that link them. True
experts will have virtually unlimited off-piste itineraries that will test any
skier and offer heart-stopping adventure.
The
region is sprinkled with excellent restaurants ranging from Michelin-star
eateries in every valley to dozens of small atmospheric traditional restaurants
that specialize in the local Savoyard specialties of tartiflette, fondue and
raclette. Long lunches on the slopes are a national passion. In the cold weather
refuges offer warm fireplaces surrounded by tables and in the spring skiers pack
the sun-drenched decks. Scores of mountain restaurants offer everything from
gourmet meals to spaghetti. All promise a great meal, wonder views and, on most
days, brilliant sun. Each resort has its own character as well its own ski area.
You
don't need to arrive in a Bogner ski suit. Courchevel has something for
everyone. The skiing literally surrounds the town. Ski down the wonderful bowls
of beneath Saulire back toward the village or down to Les Creux. Test yourself
down groomed expert runs beneath Chanrossa. Wind down the narrow Les Suisses. Or
ride to the peak of Col de La Loze and cruise down to the sister village of La
Tania. 
Some
skiers refer to Meribel as the hub of the Trois Vallèes. The village has two
basic centers for both lodging and for the lift systems--Meribel Mottaret at
1,700 meters and Mèribel at 1,450 meters. Both are excellent centers for any
winter activities. These are the two villages at the heart of the region. Both
village centers are well-connected with the other valleys.
From
a distance Les Menuires' original buildings look like a misplaced spaceship
resting on the snow. This isn't a judgment of good or bad, the resort works
wonderfully. The resort has been making dramatic strides in blending the resort
into the environment and adding an Alpine feel to the area. All new construction
has been created with wood and peaked roofs. Giant pines were planted at the
entrance to the area to improve the first impression and covered wooden arcades
now connect the buildings adding a natural feel to the compound and inside the
decor has been made much more Savoyard with plenty of wood and farm influences.
The original center still serves as an excellent village center and is a most
convenient main meeting place for ski schools and children's programs.
At
2,300 meters, Val Thorens is designed for the young and restless, or at least
for the young-at-heart and active. It's altitude is the highest of any European
resort. Outside, the crowd is one teeming mass of rainbow-colored movement:
snowmobilers, skiers, snowboarders, parasailors, and monoskiers riding
high-speed lifts and winding through the apartment and hotel complexes. The real
claim to fame is the atmosphere of sport, sure snow and the lofty location of
this fun town. If you're looking to have a drink of wine and a laugh with the
locals, then you'll fit right in.