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Utah’s Greatest Snow On Earth

by Valerie Summers

When the cloak of winter deposits 500 inches of “The Greatest Snow on Earth” on Utah’s famed Rocky Mountain slopes, I’ll cruise down the same inclines as will the Olympic champions during the first winter games of the 21st century.  Perhaps not the exact same slopes, and granted they won’t be marked with double black diamonds, but they will be in the same vicinity as those who will bring back the gold, silver and bronze in February 2002.   I’ll also return to several other favorite haunts of mine including Alta,  Snowbird, The Canyons, and Powder Mountain.  Nine of the states 14 alpine resorts are situated less than an hour from the Salt Lake City International Airport allowing me and other winter sports enthusiasts to conveniently sample several ski areas, each of which sparkles with its own unique personality

Tradition reigns at the venerable Alta, long heralded as the granddaddy of ski resorts.   It has been referred to as a mountain with a soul. Guests experience romance, respect for the past and  commitment to the future. No snowboarding here. Tradition includes descending the legendary 61 wooden steps leading to Alta Lodge to revel in the warmth and hospitality of ski lodges of bygone days. Skiing out the door of the lodge to the lifts made for an easy, relaxing stay.  I enjoyed the rustic, understated but high class ambience which prevails.  Although traditional, Alta exhibits a quirky side.  When I visited on April Fools Day last year, I witnessed several unique ski outfits …a woman in her bathrobe with curlers in her hair, a court jester with multicolored  hat and a bride, complete with flowing veil. Alta’s philosophy remains consistent with what it was in the 1930’s, to provide quality skiing at a reasonable price – that price, $31 for the use of  13 lifts and 2,200 gorgeous skiable acres of dry, fluffy powder, suitable for all levels.

At Snowbird, a schuss away from Alta, not only did I get into some glorious powder, but I topped the day off with a visit to the Cliff Spa.  Snowbird’s diverse terrain offers some of the most challenging skiing in the world, but also includes substantial intermediate and beginner runs.  Snowboarders carve the mountain at this favored destination.   Its 2,500 acres of wide open bowls, gladed tree runs, steep chutes, groomed trails and cruising boulevards offered ample choices for my skiing adventure. A ride up the high speed aerial tram to Hidden Peak’s 11,000 foot summit for a look ‘round offered an unsurpassed panoramic view.  The challenge of skiing back down was daunting, so I opted for a return trip via tram.  The cost for lift tickets ranges from $39-$49. At the end of the day I headed back to The Cliff Lodge and straight up to the top floor of the hotel  where I indulged in a hydrotherapy massage (50 minutes, $75).  I climbed into an oversized tub and floated for 10 minutes in tepid, aromatherapy treated liquid, gazing out the huge picture window at the snow covered slopes of the jagged Wasatch mountains.   The therapist returned and aimed a high pressure hose at my various body parts resulting in a deep and penetrating massage,  an ideal solution to those apres ski aches.  Ideal snow conditions, a relaxing massage and finally a delicious dinner at The Aerie Restaurant, on the 10th floor of The Cliff Lodge, provided the elements of a perfect day.

If a ski area could ever been considered homey, Powder Mountain is it.  No pretensions here.  Folks are just folks and although it offers 1,600 acres of packed and powder runs serviced by lifts, 1,200 acres of back powder country and 1,200 acres of cat skiing, no sleek, speedy quads grace these slopes, neither do hundreds of skiers waiting in lifts lines.  Adventuresome skiers find Powder Mountain the choice area for cat skiing in the back country, where they track through virgin snow.  When there are too few skiers to staff the lifts, for only $5,  a friendly snowmobile driver pulls skiers, two at a time, up the mountain, water-skiing style.   The main focus at Powder Mountain is back country skiing.  Snowboarders are welcomed all over the mountain.   While some of my friends took to their boards, I opted for an exhilarating snowmobile ride around the areas perimeter, ending at Hidden Lake Lodge, where skiers often stop for a sandwich, a steaming cup of hot chocolate and a breathtaking view. 

From one extreme to the other, The Canyons is 21st century all the way with the latest, best and most glamorous of equipment and accommodations.  Flight of the Canyons high tech multi colored gondolas move skiers up to High Meadow where the express lifts wait to transport them to ski territory.   Five high-speed express quads whisk snow riders up to six mountain peaks for $52 per lift ticket every day.  The Canyons promises to be one of the most posh ski areas in the country with more than 2,700 lift-served skiable acres.  Currently, skiers choose from 14% beginner runs, 44% intermediate and 42% expert. Boarders find the natural and man-made halfpipes and playgrounds awesome snowboarding terrain. What looks like the set for movie, Red Pine Lodge, an alpine chalet, welcomes skiers in for eats and drinks  providing one of the most varied dining choices of any mountain eateries I have ever visited.  This world-class futuristic resort is building condos, convention facilities, tennis counts, a shopping/restaurant area and a golf course just as fast as they can. 

Park City, Utah’s best known ski resort town, a lively community filled with unique boutiques, art galleries, night clubs and spas, is a bastion of fine local and international cuisine.  It hosts numerous festivals including the world renowned Sundance Film Festival.  Park City certainly has changed since I learned to ski there more than 20 years ago.   What I recall was learning to ski on the top of the mountain.  It was thrilling!  At Park City, wherever I was,  there was always an easy  way down  but  I made sure to stay clear of its legendary back bowls which are strictly for the experts.  Fourteen lifts,  with an uphill capacity of more than 27,200 guests per hour, makes lift lines practically a thing of the past.  The cost for a lift ticket,  $39-$53.   The areas 3,000 acres  features nearly 100 trails and includes 650 acres of wide open bowls at the top of the mountain, the perfect venue for the Olympic Giant Slalom and Snowboarding events.  Park City now encompasses three ski resorts: Deer Valley, Park City and The Canyons plus the Sports Park.  A wide range of lodging accommodations includes B&B’s, dormitories, condos, five star hotels or private homes.  My choice, The Yarrow, a moderately priced hotel, offered comfort and convenience.  A stop at Seasons Body Retreat, on Main Street, after a day on the slopes, revived and relaxed me, ready for a night on the town.  

One more Olympic venue, a must on my agenda, is a visit to the Utah Winter Sports Park, the official Olympic venue for bobsledding, luging and ski jumping.  There I’ll plummet down the path of future champions.   While the speed of the bobsledding track can go from 30 to 80 miles per hour,  I’ll opt for a middle of the road speed .   The 387 acre park includes freestyle and Nordic winter ski jumps, a 1,335-meter bobsled/luge track with five start areas, two ski lifts and judges towers.  Recreational ski jumping lessons are available to the public for $28 for two hours of instruction.

For those more in the class of Olympic skiers than I, the Ski Utah Interconnect Adventure Tour offers a unique opportunity for advanced skiers to ski five resorts in a single day through extraordinary untouched backcountry.  Although this may be an incredible excursion, just lead me to those beautifully groomed slopes at Alta, Park City, Powder Mountain, Snowbird and The Canyons when the snow begins to fall this winter.

For information:

Southwest Airlines
800-435-9792
http://www.southwest.com

Always entertaining with repartee, jokes and songs courtesy of the pilot and flight attendants and of course, most important, they get where I am going safely and on time.  They have ranked number one in on time performance for the last seven years.   Southwest flies to 54 cities with more than 2,450 flights daily. 

Alta Ski Area
801-359-1078
P.O. Box 8007
Alta, Utah 84092
http://www.altaskiarea.com

Alta Lodge
Alta, Utah 84092-8040
800-707-ALTA
http://www.altalodge.com

The Canyons
888-CANYONS
4000 The Canyons Drive
Park City,  UT  84098
http://www.thecanyons.com

Park City Visitor & Convention Bureau
800-453-1360
1910 Prospector Ave.
P.O. Box 1630
Park City, UT 84060
http://wwwparkcitymountain.com

Salt Lake Convention & Visitors Bureau
90 South West Temple
Salt Lake City, Utah 84101
801 521 2822
800 541-4955
http://www.visitsaltlake.com

Salt Lake Organizing Committee for the Olympic Winter Games of 2002
257 E. 200 South, Suite 600
Salt Lake City, UT  84111
801 212 2002
http://www.slc2002.org

Ski Utah Interconnect Adventure Tour
801 534-1907
150 W. 500 South
Salt Lake City, UT  84101
http://www.skiutah.com

Snowbird
800-640-2002
P.O. Box 929000
Snowbird, UT  89092-9000
http://www.snowbird.com

Utah Winter Sports Park
P.O. Box 980337
3000 Bear Hollow Drive
Park City, UT  84098
801-658-4200
http://www.sportspark.state.ut.us

The Yarrow
800 YARROW  HOTEL
1800 Park Avenue
Park City, UT  84060
Rates begin at $129 

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