By Valerie Summers

A fairy tale city swathed in her winter wardrobe of  snowy ermine, colored lights casting a magical glow on a giant ice castle, and the silhouette of the  Chateau Frontenac, lay before me as I gazed from my hotel window.  I had often heard Quebec City, Canada, described as “More French than France.”  I was not disappointed.  It was even better than France in many ways.  No language problem here.  When I indicated that I didn’t understand French, the Quebecois who I was speaking with would immediately switch to English.

It was February and it was cold but the sun shone brightly.  My visit coincided with the world’s largest winter carnival, Carnaval de Quebec.  The narrow winding streets of the Old City were filled with revelers bundled up in brightly colored winter wear, many of them pulling their children through the snow on small sleds .  Everywhere I walked looked like a postcard scene.  Festival horns blared,  skaters spun around on ice rinks beside the great St. John’s Gate.  Inside the walled city restaurants and shops were filled with visitors and laughter was everywhere.  Dominating the cityscape,  Chateau Frontenac, one of the most photographed hotels in the world,  looms up like a castle perched upon Cap Diamant, a promontory overlooking the mighty St. Lawrence River.  I ventured down the steps which front the Chateau to Quartier Petit Champlain, the oldest commercial neighborhood in North America.  Strolling the narrow walking street, I passed boutiques, many of which featured arts and crafts and stopped at an  inviting bistro, Le Lapin Saute,  for a scrumptious rabbit pie, fresh salad and steaming coffee.  Along the way numerous ice carving added to the festive atmosphere, but they were just the teasers for the spectacular ice sculptures that I would view later.

The Plains of Abraham, a 250 acre park,  is the main venue for Carnaval.  Bonhomme, a giant, smiling snow figure, come to life, hosts the celebration. His home...the ice palace.  His entourage... the Knuks, a amusing band of colorfully and cleverly outfitted characters who mingled with the crowds, performing magic and antics.  People come from all over the world to enter competitions and  to revel in the Mardi Gras like atmosphere of winter magic.  Celebrants, many of them wearing the traditional woven arrow sash,  brave the snowy tundra and just get with the program.  I jumped on a four horse drawn sleigh and snuggled under a warm woolen blanket  for a tour of the park.  We passed an area where I got a preview of several of the floats which would be featured in the night parade.  I watched ice climbers, picks in hand, scale a three-story  ice column. Disembarking near an igloo village,  I tramped through the snow and crawled inside one of the igloos along with a host of other curious visitors. It was surprising to discover just how cozy a house made of ice can be.  Celebrants gathered to cheer on the participants in The Raid des Braves, an off trail snowmobile race and the Grand Viree dogsled race. Undaunted by the cold, a favorite spectator competition was the Canoe Race across the ice floes of the St. Laurence River in arctic temperatures.

One of the highlights of Carnaval is the International Snow Sculpture Event with more than 20 countries participating.  A footpath just outside the walls of the old city was transformed into a sparkling sculpture gallery where artists from around the world breathed life into blocks of snow.   The colossal, fantasy-like sculptures dwarfed admirers as we strolled the snow covered path.  Another popular draw was the Place du Palais, the site of the Bonhomme’s palace.  One evening I was attracted to the site by the sound of music an soon found myself in a Conga Line snaking in and around the palace while a lively band played onstage and rosy cheeked dancers twisted and turned on the snow covered ground in the area fronting the palace.

The night parade lured thousands out into freezing temperatures.  Band members were warmly dressed from head to toe, as were many of their instruments.  The temperature didn’t freeze anyone’s spirits.  Animated floats, fireworks and comic clowns added to the festivities.  The final float was reserved for Bonhomme, the living incarnation of the snowmen that have enchanted Quebec children for generations, is the symbol of the festivities that take place at this time of year.  A symbol of joy,  he represents Quebecois and their wintertime way of life.

During my stay, when I was not participating in Carnaval activities, I visited the Museum of Civilization which hosts changing and international exhibits covering  historical, unusual and controversial subjects.  I found the exhibit of miniatures most entrancing.  One of the most memorable displays was viewed through a magnifying lens... a painting of Adam and Eve and the snake painted on an apple seed.  The Musee du Fort, a narrated diorama, relived the six sieges of Quebec.  At the Quebec Experience,  I donned 3-D glasses and enjoyed a multi media sound and light show.   I was transported  on a magical journey  through Quebec’s history and into modern times narrated by historic holographic figures.

But enough of museums, parades, and  revelry.   My host suggested we get out of town and tour the countryside.   The countryside,  as it turned out, was a 15 minute drive from the center of town.

Our first stop was  the  Parc de la Chute Montmorency  where spectacular 30 story  water falls, three quarters  frozen, dominated the open expanse.  This was truly a winter wonderland, the great falls frozen into undulating patterns of ice while a portion of icy waters  cascaded over the frozen facade of the  272 foot cliff.  As I crunched my way through the snow, the area fronting the falls seemed cloaked in a gentle mist, but as I got closer the gentle mist felt more like tiny icicles stinging my face.  On both sides of the falls, ice climbers worked their way to the top with picks and ropes.  Most of the people who trudged to the top of the hill closest to the falls opted to take the quick way down – on their derrières. Later, I took a cable car up to top of the cliff to tour and dine at the historic  200 year old Manoir Montmorency.  To walk off some of my delicious lunch, I walked over the 300 foot long bridge which spans the falls.  Looking down at the falls was as impressive as looking up at the natural wonder which cascades  from a height 100 feet greater than Niagara Falls.

Following my tour of the  Parc, just on the opposite side of the highway, we turned onto  the Pont de L’ile d’Orleans  bridge, crossing over the frozen St. Lawrence River and into another world,  the Isle d’Orleans.    Expensive vacation homes, many of historic design, and craft enterprises dominated the area.  I stopped for lunch at Le Auberge Le Canard Huppe,  a charming country inn which included a romantic restaurant serving gourmet French cuisine.  Just up the road I toured Guy Bel’s blacksmith shop, where the charming  proprietor demonstrated how art metal work was done the old fashioned way. His work included intricately designed banisters, furniture and sculptures.   Further along,  Noella Leverque, weaver extraordinaire, showed us to the lower level of her home where the spacious room was dominated by traditional looms with colorful half finished projects and tables of threads and yarns and ribbons.  Out back, a mini museum displayed her work from place mats to rugs.

We headed back across the bridge in time to participate in the closing ceremonies of Carnaval.  Hundreds gathered, for one last look, at the ice palace.   Little children sitting on their parents shoulders, older people, teenagers, all there to bid adieu to Bonhomme until the next Carnaval.

Quebec City, appropriately named by UNESCO as a national treasure, remains a treasure in my heart.  I eagerly look forward to the next Carnaval, January 29-February 14, 1999, with its joyous celebration , its invigorating climate, and the warm spirit of its inhabitants.

Quebec Hilton
1100 Boulevard Rene-Levesque Est, Quebec City.  Telephone 418-647-2411.  One of the most conveniently located hotels in the city, situated just across the street from the Ice Palace and the Plains of Abraham and a very short walk to the gates of the Old City.  The accommodations are spacious and comfortable in this state of the art hotel.

Air Canada
800-776-3000
http://www.aircanada.ca

Color courtesy of Benoit Camirand