|
 TM
Winter Sports in Yellowstone
Country
Snowcoaches, snowmobiles,
cross-country skis
or snowshoes -- take your pick
by Barbara Gibbs Ostmann
Tucked into the cozy interior of the snowcoach, my
traveling companions and I peered through the frosty windows in awe as a herd of
bison slowly strolled across the snow-packed roadway. Outside, snowmobilers slid
to a halt and joined the bison-induced "traffic jam." One of the
wonders of Yellowstone National Park, anytime of year, is having herds of bison
or elk surround your vehicle as you wait for the "rush hour" to
subside.
In winter, the park is closed to automobiles, except for
one stretch of road from Gardiner to Cooke City, Mont. (North Entrance to
Northeast Entrance). Elsewhere, access to the park is by snowcoach, snowmobile
or skis. It is a magical time to see the park. Snowy landscapes, frosty trees
and steamy geysers create an almost mystical environment, just right for
wildlife viewing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling or
snowcoaching.
 Snowcoaches are enclosed, heated vehicles that travel on
caterpillar or tank treads over the snow. The red and yellow fleets that tour
the park are vintage Bombardiers, manufactured in Canada for winter combat use
and converted into tourism vehicles. Some of the coaches are modern vans that
have had the tires replaced with tank treads. While some people say the vans are
more comfortable, I like the ambiance of the vintage vehicles. On the two
round-trips I made into the park last winter, the people packed into the curved
turtleshell along with me were from around the country and ranged in age from
pre-teen to senior citizen. Everyone was in a merry mood and played
"musical chairs" at each stop to ensure that everyone had a
comfortable seat and a good view.
The drivers of the snowcoaches are also guides, and their
personalities flavor the experience. Mike Bryers, chief guide of Yellowstone
Alpen Guides, is a jack of all trades: rancher, artist, guide, hunter,
alternative minister, you-name-it. He brings his love of the region to life as
he describes the wildlife and natural wonders of the park. Driver/guide Patrick
Matheny is an employe of Amfac Parks and Resorts, which operates the concessions
at several national parks, including Yellowstone. Matheny's passion is natural
history, which he illustrates with stories, show-and-tell and stops along the
way.
Wildlife watching
Winter is a good time of year to view wildlife in the park.
Yellowstone's geyser-fed rivers remain unfrozen, creating a natural winter
refuge for hundreds of waterfowl, especially trumpeter swans. Many of the
animals, such as bison and elk, are in a slow-moving state, trying to conserve
energy to make it to spring.
"This time of year is hardest on all species, and any
unwarranted movement can mean life or death for the animal. Any time of the
year, you should never approach wildlife, staying at least 25 yards away from
all species, 100 yards away from bears. This is for your safety as well as the
animal's safety," writes Carl Swoboda in a West Yellowstone guide. "A
good rule of thumb is if you cause an animal to move or change its behavior,
then you are too close. Use binoculars, spotting scopes or telephoto lenses to
allow you to view wildlife in a natural, undisturbed state."
A great way to get a good look at the wildlife is with a
local guide who knows the park inside and out. One such is Ken Sinay, of
Northern Rockies Natural History. Based in Bozeman, Sinay provides wildlife,
natural and cultural history field tours throughout Montana and Yellowstone
National Park. On our full-day safari with him last spring, we spotted bears,
wolves, coyotes, elk, eagles, mountain bluebirds and much more. He explained
what we were seeing and alerted us to things we should be looking for, making
the day an informative mini course on Yellowstone ecology.
Staying in the park
During the winter season, late December through early
March, only two of the park's hotels are open, the Old Faithful Snow Lodge and
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Old Faithful can by reached by snowcoach or
snowmobile from the West Entrance or from the park. Mammoth is accessible from
the North Entrance by car and from the park by snowcoach or snowmobile. This is
the second winter season all 100 rooms of the newly constructed Old Faithful
Snow Lodge are open.
"There is nothing quite like the experience of seeing
crystal-covered bison appearing from the mist surrounding the hot springs and
geysers," says Jim McCaleb, general manager of Yellowstone National Park
Lodges. "Adventurers will never forget skiing and snowshoeing snow-covered
tranquil trails and walkways that take them to geysers surrounded by ice-covered
trees, waterfalls, woods and hills."
You can bring your own equipment (snowmobiles, skis,
snowshoes, clothing) or rent it at the park. You can sign up for an interpretive
tour by ski, snowshoe or snowcoach, or for a ski or snowshoe lesson.
There are several winter lodging packages available,
including a special Snow Card discount. The Yellowstone Association Institute
also offers educational programs throughout the year. The park is closed
mid-March to mid-April.
Outside the park
Although the park is the main draw, the gateways to the
park -- West Yellowstone, Gardiner and Cooke City, Mont., and Cody and Jackson,
Wyo. -- are attractions in and of themselves. West Yellowstone, in particular,
offers winter sports enthusiasts the time of their lives. Snowmobilers and
cross-country skiers can explore the millions of acres of public lands, while
nearby downhill ski resorts, such as Big Sky, provide visitors a variety of
thrills and challenges.
Tucked away in the southwest corner of Montana, West
Yellowstone, the west entrance to the park, is the "Snowmobiling Capital of
the World." The area averages more than 150 inches of powder snow each
year. With 400-plus miles of groomed snowmobile trails in the surrounding
national forests and 200 miles of trails within the national park, there are
options for riders of every skill level. The National Park Service is currently
evaluating snowmobiling in Yellowstone park, but a final decision has not yet
been made. Snowmobiles will have normal access during this winter season.
Cross-country skiing vies with snowmobiling for the sport
of choice in West Yellowstone. The town is the official training site for the
United States Nordic and Biathlon Ski Teams. From the Fall Training Camp in
November to the Rendezvous Ski Race in March, West Yellowstone offers something
for Nordic skiers of all levels.
Marc Sheppard, program director of both the West
Yellowstone Ski Education Foundation and the U.S. Summer Biathlon, beams with
pride as he leads visiting skiers along the miles of groomed tracks that make up
the Rendezvous Ski Trails, in the Gallatin National Forest on the edge of town.
This trail system is professionally groomed from early November through April
with both diagonal stride tracks and a 12-foot skating lane. The trail system is
the site of the Yellowstone Rendezvous Marathon Race, held each year in March.
Last year more than 600 racers competed. The Youth Festival, for kids ages 3 to
15, is also in March. The foundation also sponsors a monthly series of
non-racing events.
Yellowstone Country offers some of the nation's best
options for over-snow exploring and adventuring. But once you've sampled the
wonders of Yellowstone in winter, chances are you'll want to return to
experience its charms in other seasons, too.
Contact information
Yellowstone National Park, 307-344-7381 or www.nps.gov/yell
.
Yellowstone National Park Lodges, 307-344-7901; for
reservations, 307-344-7311; www.travelyellowstone.com
.
Yellowstone Association Institute, 307-344-2294 or www.YellowstoneAssociation.org
.
Northern Rockies Natural History, 406-586-1155 or www.beyondyellowstone.com
.
Travel Montana, 800-VISITMT (847-4868) or www.wintermt.com
.
West Yellowstone Chamber of Commerce, 406-646-7701 or www.westyellowstonechamber.com
or www.wyellowstone.com
Yellowstone Alpen Guides, 800-858-3502 or www.yellowstoneguides.com
.
West Yellowstone Ski Education Foundation, 406-646-0012 or altius@gomontana.com
.
Text copyright 2000 Barbara Gibbs Ostmann
Images courtesy Yellowstone National Park
Back to
TravelLady Magazine |